How retractable countertop sockets are arranged and how to install them yourself

Drawing up a layout of outlets

When planning a major overhaul of the kitchen, you need to take care of drawing up a layout plan for the location of sockets in order to avoid unnecessary hanging wires, as well as inconvenience when connecting electrical appliances.

Determination of the required number of outlets

To determine the number of outlets in the kitchen, you need to sum up all the household appliances that you plan to use, and add another 20% as a margin. The most common kitchen consumers are:

• hoods;
• plates;
• fridge;
• built-in appliances;
• kettle, mixer, etc.

To the resulting list, it is also worth adding devices that may be used in the future. All calculations should be performed even at the wiring stage, that is, before the start of finishing work, since it will not be easy to install additional sockets later.

The number of outlets at each connection point in the kitchen directly depends on the number of electrical appliances that will be used in the immediate vicinity of it.

Location of sockets for each type of household appliances

Depending on the consumer, the socket should be located at a certain level from the floor:

1. Plate. The main rule is that sockets should not be placed above the burners or behind the oven. The optimal distance from the floor is 15 cm with some indentation to the side so that the plug is accessible, but the socket is not visible.
2. Fridge. The recommendations are generally the same. Plus, it should be borne in mind that some models of refrigerators have a short power cord, which will not allow you to place the outlet far away.
3. Washing machine and dishwasher. This technique has holes on the back for supplying and draining water, so the outlet should be located at some distance. It is better to place it on the opposite side of the hoses at a height of 15–20 cm from the floor.
4. Hood. Since this device is installed quite high, the socket should also be located closer to the ceiling, usually 2 m from the floor.

5. On an apron.Typically, this location is a work area for cooking, so the connection of kitchen electrical appliances may be required quite often. So that the plug can be turned on and off without difficulty, the socket is placed 10–15 cm from the edge of the countertop or 110–115 cm from the floor. You should not place it too high, since the apron is a noticeable place in the kitchen and the wires that are in plain sight will only spoil the interior.

In the area of ​​​​the kitchen where the sofa, table and chairs are installed, the presence of an outlet is also extremely important, for example, to connect a vacuum cleaner, charge a phone or laptop. In this case, it is better to put a pair of double sockets at a height of 20-30 cm from the floor

At a higher location, the wires will be visible.

Wiring rules

Connecting sockets in the kitchen is carried out, adhering to the following rules:

1. The total power of consumers that are connected to the outlet should not exceed the maximum allowable.
2. When operating equipment with high power, it is necessary to bring a dedicated line to it and install a separate machine.
3. If there are electrical appliances with a metal case, they must be grounded.
4. It is not recommended to install sockets behind electrical equipment that generates heat (ovens, refrigerators, etc.).

5. Before starting the installation, you should draw up a plan.

Table: power and cross-section of wires for connecting kitchen appliances

Types of equipment	Maximum power consumption	Socket	Cable cross section	Automatic in the shield
Single phase connection	Three-phase connection
Dependent kit: electrical panel plus oven	about 11 kW	Calculated for the power consumption of the kit	Up to 8.3 kW/4 mm² (PVA 3*4) 8.3–11 kW/6 mm² (PVA 3*6)	Up to 9 kW/2.5 mm² (PVA 3*2.5) 9–15/4 mm² (PVA 3*4)	separate, not less than 25 A (only 380 V) plus RCD
Electrical panel (independent)	6–11 kW	Rated for panel power consumption	Up to 8.3 kW/4 mm² (PVA 3*4) 8.3-11kW/6mm² (PVA 3*6)	Up to 9 kW/2.5 mm² (PVA 3*2.5) 9–15/4 mm² (PVA 3*4)	separate, at least 25 A plus RCD
Electric oven (independent)	3.5–6 kW	euro socket	Up to 4 kW/2.5 mm² (PVA 3*2.5) from 4 to 6 kW/4 mm² (PVA 3*4)	16 A 25 A
gas hob		euro socket	1.5 mm² (PVA 3*1.5)	16A
Gas oven		euro socket	1.5 mm² (PVA 3*1.5)	16A
Washing machine	2.5 kW 7 kW with dryer	euro socket	2.5 mm² (PVA 3*2.5) 7 kW/4 mm² (PVA 3*4)	separate, 16 A separate, 32 A
Dishwasher	2–2.5 kW	euro socket	2.5 mm² (PVA 3*2.5)	separate, 16 A
Refrigerator, freezer	less than 1 kW	euro socket	1.5 mm² (PVA 3*1.5)	16 A
Hood	less than 1 kW	euro socket	1.5 mm² (PVA 3*1.5)	16 A
Coffee machine, steamer, microwave oven	up to 2 kW	euro socket	1.5 mm² (PVA 3*1.5)	16 A

Varieties

So, built-in modules for the kitchen are used at the middle level for appliances that are turned on irregularly, acting as extension cords and tees. Manufacturers offer 2 options:

Vertical retractable kitchen outlet. It rises from the tabletop like a column, so that even during operation, the structure takes up a minimum of space. When closed, it is a round cover with a diameter of 6-10 cm. The block is pulled out after pressing the top. Many structures rotate around their axis.

USEFUL INFO: What is the voltage in the outlet?

Swivel socket module. This is a horizontal arrangement.In this case, a rectangular cover is installed on the tabletop, which, after pressing, rises, and sockets are shown from under it.

Do-it-yourself budget transfer

Sometimes errors in calculations occur, and the question arises of how to make sockets in the kitchen elsewhere. According to GOST, this cannot be done by extending the wires from a previously installed outlet, but it is required to conduct separate wiring from the junction box along the ceiling, and the route itself must be laid strictly vertically and horizontally.

When deciding how to make sockets in the kitchen on their own in another place, few people comply with the regulations - the connection is made directly from the old point along the shortest route. The main tool for performing work is a puncher (usually a wall chaser or grinder is required, crowns with a diameter of 6 cm. For drilling holes for the box).

• Using a pencil, draw a line to the intended point. With a drill for concrete, we drill small indentations along the line in increments of about 1 cm.
• We change the drill in the puncher to a blade and align the completed strobe along the entire length.
• We draw the contour of the circle under the socket box with a pencil on the wall, drill holes around its perimeter (to facilitate the work, it may be necessary to drill additional holes within the circle), then we knock out the necessary recess with a puncher with a spatula.
• We dismantle the old socket, leaving only the box, we release the wires. We fasten a special adapter terminal block to them.
• We put the new wire in the gate, thread it through the hole in the box and connect it to the old wire in the terminal block, tightening the screws.
• We insert the box for the new point into the knocked-out hole for the socket, thread the wire through the side hole.
• We moisten the strobe and all the recesses in the wall with water, fix the wire and the box, then cover all the recesses with alabaster, gypsum or putty, having previously protected the terminal connection.
• After the solution dries, we mount a new socket in the box, screwing the wire to it.

Varieties

Since the use of extension cords in the kitchen creates inconvenience when moving and cooking, built-in sockets are popular with housewives. Such devices, depending on the location, are divided into two types:

• vertical;
• horizontal.

Sockets installed vertically may have different connector configurations. In lower models, the fork places can be located around the entire circumference, while in high ones they simply go from top to bottom.

With a horizontal arrangement, there may be several places for a conventional plug. But there are types of sockets with one connector for a standard plug and additional USB ports, that is, places for connecting the Internet and HDMI outputs.

There is also a division of sockets built into the countertop according to the type of design features:

• retractable;
• rotary.

Retractable models can make a full turn around its axis by 360 degrees, and can only turn halfway - by 180 degrees. These types of devices often have a built-in backlight.

Regardless of the type, built-in sockets have a number of advantages over an extension cord. And the main one is the ability to effectively organize the workspace on the kitchen table, even if its dimensions are small and the configuration is non-standard. At the same time, the appearance of such a device is much more modern and aesthetic.The functional arrangement of built-in sockets is an order of magnitude higher, as is the level of security

And this is especially important in conditions where moisture is periodically present near the device. Safety is also important when there are small children in the house.

What sockets are best for the kitchen

In addition to the ceiling height and layout, this room has the following characteristics.

1. During cooking, there is increased humidity.
2. There are temperature fluctuations.
3. Regular consumption of electricity, if necessary household appliances are used for cooking.

Always plan the placement of outlets after the kitchen design has been approved, otherwise there may be problems.

Sockets located in the kitchen must be protected from moisture. Choose the models with the best protective index, related to the IP44 class.

Follow the rule - for each stationary kitchen appliance, plan your outlet + 2 blocks along the edges of the countertop + 1 pc near the dining table.

It is especially important to place such sockets where liquid can get in: this is a work area, sink, stove. Those areas of the room where there is no such risk, for example, the dining area, can be equipped with conventional sockets

The category of stationary equipment includes a refrigerator, extractor hood, hob and oven, microwave, dishwasher, garbage disposal.

If finances allow, you can choose more modern devices for installation: retractable, built-in, with child protection, with a USB channel for connecting mobile devices.

Location of sockets in the kitchen

Place socket blocks in the kitchen so that all electrical appliances are in 3 levels:

• lower,
• average,
• upper.

Approximate layout

The lower level includes appliances that can be built into the lower cabinets:

• frying plate,
• washing machine,
• oven,
• Dishwasher.

Intermediate technology is:

• Electric kettle,
• coffee maker,
• food processor,
• electric toaster,
• blender,
• microwave,
• other appliances that are installed on the countertop.

Top-level appliances include appliances that are above the kitchen table,

• exhaust systems,
• backlight,
• air conditioner.

For appliances of the lower level, sockets are installed from the floor at a distance of 10-15 cm. For a washing machine and dishwasher, for a refrigerator, sockets are needed with grounding.

For mid-level devices, sockets have been installed in the countertop in recent years. Their connectors are hidden from prying eyes. They are installed directly on the countertop or on the apron. This kind of pull-out devices for the kitchen most often consist of blocks that include 3 or more outlets. They sink into the closet. To pull them out, lightly press the lid with your fingers.

Upper level appliances are connected to sockets installed 10 cm above the cabinets.

Retractable socket blocks built into the countertop have a number of advantages over conventional switching points for appliances. Their advantages include:

• saving time and space,
• safety,
• functionality,
• aesthetics.

Time is saved due to the fact that there is no need to pull extension cords. This circumstance saves space. Wires do not get tangled under your feet. Built-in sockets are not suitable for small children. They are protected from water ingress, so the possibility of a short circuit is reduced to zero.The retractable socket is functional, because you can turn on several devices at the same time. It does not spoil the appearance of the kitchen. After use, it neatly hides in the countertop (Fig. 3). Many residents have already installed such devices in their homes and appreciated them.

Installation of built-in sockets in the countertop

Built-in retractable socket blocks can be installed in different places in the kitchen. For this, any pieces of furniture, mainly countertops, are used. This option is very convenient, because you can safely put dishes and other items on the closed lid.

It is recommended to start embedding a retractable outlet by cutting a hole of the desired diameter in the countertop, corresponding to the size of the block. Next, the entire structure must be inserted into the hole and fixed from below with a special washer that comes with the product. The dimensions of the hole must be as close as possible to the unit to be mounted.

If the countertop is made of artificial stone or other materials with high strength, in which it is very difficult to cut or drill a hole, it is necessary to order this work from the manufacturer in advance. The recommendations of experts can greatly facilitate the installation process. Where possible, the location of outlets should be considered at the design stage. This is especially true when replacing wiring, which allows you to ensure the normal access of built-in products to the electrical network.

Installation recommendations:

• There must be free space in the piece of furniture for access to the place of attachment of the structure. All elements that interfere with free access must be dismantled if possible.
• It is recommended to connect the socket to the electrical network only after it has been installed. If the wire is not long enough, it must be lengthened or completely replaced.
• The retractable part of the unit, when immersed, must fit completely inside the furniture where it is built.

The most convenient points where retractable socket blocks can be installed are, first of all, places of concentration in a large number of different household appliances. Most often they are mounted in the work area and on the countertop, they must have sockets with a certain margin and correspond to the expected load.

Rules for the location of outlets in the kitchen: photos, diagrams and recommendations

Before you start choosing places, as well as installing outlets, you need to make some calculations that will help you do everything right. First of all, you need to write out all the devices that you plan to use in the near future, as well as their approximate power. Of course, power indicators will be individual, however, as an example, we can consider the following average indicators:

• refrigerator - up to 1 kW;
• water heater - from 1.5 kW;
• hob - from 1 to 1.5 kW;
• washing machine - about 1.5 kW;
• electric oven - from 2.5 kW.

An example of the correct location of the outlet for the refrigerator

All these are items of large household appliances that create the main load on the network. Small appliances, which include a microwave oven, blender, coffee maker, kettle, etc., as a rule, consume from 300 to 800 kW, depending on the model.

How to arrange sockets in the kitchen: basic rules

Here are a few basic rules to follow when arranging outlets in the kitchen:

the total power of all devices that will be connected to one outlet should not exceed the allowable one. That is, you need to see in advance the power of each device (it is indicated in the data sheet). Usually, only such large appliances as an electric kettle and a microwave oven cannot be connected to one outlet, and other combinations are quite acceptable;

The layout of electrical outlets and conclusions in the kitchen

• there should be enough power lines for sockets in the kitchen so that there is enough for all sockets with a double margin. To do this, conditionally divide the space into several zones, depending on how the devices will be located, and then divide the required power to power them into groups of outlets. By multiplying the result by two in each of the groups, you will get the most complete picture of how many sources will be needed;
• in order to provide power to large devices, it is advisable to bring separate lines to them, the cross section of which will be suitable. This applies to electric stoves and other large devices for which individual separate automatic protection on the electrical panel will not interfere;
• if the device has a metal case, then it must be grounded and the sockets in this case must be connected through an RCD or a differential circuit breaker;

In a large kitchen, it is better to arrange blocks with fewer outlets, but with a more frequent interval.

• according to the regulations, the installation of sockets directly above electrical appliances (refrigerator, oven, extractor hood, etc.) is strictly prohibited. They should be located strictly on the side and at a distance of at least 20 cm;
• Another important point concerns the installation at the location of the apron. Sockets in the kitchen should rise at least 10-15 cm above the countertop to eliminate the risk of dripping water and grease into them.

Built-in sockets should not be placed near the sink to avoid water entering the unit

You can understand what power this or that socket is designed for by paying attention to the marking provided by the manufacturer. There are two options: 10 amps - 2.2 kW and 16 amps, which corresponds to 3.5 kW

Layout of outlets in the kitchen: principles of compilation

It is easiest to properly install sockets in the kitchen if you use the prepared scheme

You can use a ready-made one, but it’s better to take the time to compile it yourself, because this is the only way to take into account all the subtleties and features of a particular kitchen and appliances. It is worth using the schemes proposed on the Internet rather as examples and guidelines.

The convenience of their use, as well as the aesthetic side of the issue, will depend on how carefully the system for the location of sockets is thought out.

Scheme of kitchen electrical wiring for connecting household appliances

Advantages of hidden sockets

Recessed sockets are ergonomic devices that allow you to get rid of unnecessary wires in the kitchen. They are absolutely safe for the user, unpretentious in maintenance and suitable for use in rooms with high humidity. Due to the absence of wires from network units in the public domain, the overall electrical safety increases.

Built-in network blocks allow you to hide the wires well deep in the headset, which minimizes the risk of accidental or purposeful damage

Children or pets cannot reach the cord. Secret designs are generally well protected from children. This is especially true for models equipped with an electromechanical (button) opening mechanism.

Modern models of network blocks are multifunctional. They can be easily integrated into systems like Smart Homes.

The devices are equipped with:

• USB and HDMI connectors;
• servos controlled by a special touch switch;
• remote control module from the remote control;
• backlight, etc.

Sockets built into the countertop can be installed after the repair and installation of the kitchen set. They work like an extension cord, and therefore their installation does not require wiring changes. Due to the spectacular high-tech design, such network units easily fit into any designer interior.

Where not to install

Leaky electrical connectors for connecting a household power supply are not able to provide protection against moisture ingress into the junction of the contacts, which means that it is absolutely impossible to make a socket:

• Above the sink, closer than 50-60 cm from the place where the water jet can get;
• In cabinets under the kitchen sink, near the hot and cold water connection points, near the water purification devices.

This is due to the safety of electrical appliances and people, in the event of a leak, water should not get on the contacts.

Near:

• Gas pipes, closer than 0.5 meters;
• Above the gas stove;
• Closer than 0.5 meters from an open flame.

Too close distance to the gas stove can lead to the loss of elasticity of PVC insulation, its cracking and exposure of conductive wires.Well, as for gas pipes and appliances - any gas leak can lead to a fire.

Number of outlets in the kitchen

As for stationary appliances, there are usually no questions here - what will be from the “main” kitchen appliances is always clear in advance: a stove or hob, oven, refrigerator, dishwasher, microwave and other built-in appliances. Under each such household appliance, a separate outlet is naturally needed.

If we are talking about sockets provided for small household appliances such as a blender or coffee grinder, then think in advance how many household appliances you may need at the same time when cooking. Under this, and calculate the number of additional outlets. If you are at a loss in this matter, then use one of our recommendations.

The first of them: for each linear meter of the working surface there must be at least one outlet. This does not mean that sockets must be installed every meter, they may well be grouped together in several pieces.

You can do it even easier and install 2-3 outlets on the kitchen “apron” above each free countertop. Usually, these are two or three groups of outlets.

Do not forget to place one or two sockets in the dining table area. It will come in handy if there is a need to use kitchen appliances on the table, charge a cell phone or connect, for example, a laptop.

Another outlet immediately at the entrance to the kitchen will create convenience for turning on a vacuum cleaner or other equipment, eliminating the need to drag the wire to a free outlet in the back of the room.

Retractable sockets and their features

There are 2 types of sockets built into the countertop (depending on the type of block): horizontal and vertical.

Horizontal blocks have from 1 to 5 power connectors. In addition to standard plugs, they can additionally provide USB, HDMI, Internet connections.

Vertical models with 2 or more slots also vary in functionality and drawer height. Connectors are located one after another in height.

According to the design features, the socket blocks built into the countertop are divided into:

1. Retractable. Depending on the specific model, they rotate around their axis by 180 ° or 360 °. Some manufacturers produce backlit blocks.
2. Swivel. They are considered more durable and reliable in operation. Their main disadvantage is the difficulty in operating equipment with a side fork type.

In addition to the countertop, built-in sockets are placed in wall cabinets, tables and cabinets, in the gutter between the countertop and the wall. There is no fundamental difference in the installation location for such models.

French or schuko

In the documentation for devices, there are such concepts as French and shuko. These are designations for AC power plugs and sockets. Shuko (or staples) are the most common type in Russia.

In this type of device, small grounding brackets stick out at the edges of the outlet. Most grounded outlets in your home are likely shuko.

French (or pin) is a socket with a metal pin protruding from the socket. Despite the fact that this type of outlet is not common in our country, it is suitable for all modern electrical appliances. They are equipped with forks with a hole for the pin.

Selection and installation of recessed sockets

The choice of devices for connecting consumers of electricity is a matter that requires attention.Before purchasing the product, you need to carefully inspect it. There can be no mechanical damage on it. The retractable socket can be rotated in the tabletop in any direction. The color of the product can be chosen according to your taste. There are models with multi-colored illumination.

Before installing the device yourself, you must turn off the electricity in the shield. A hole is marked in the countertop and cut out with a jigsaw. Then the product is inserted into the hole and fixed in it. Legrand products from France are of very high quality.

They are protected from moisture and dust, shockproof. The cover of the block is spring-loaded, it is able to open at an angle of 180º. The product has LED lighting. To embed such a block is to free yourself forever from wires tangling under your feet.

These products have many benefits. But there are also disadvantages:

• they are completely unsuitable for connecting stationary equipment to them,
• vertical pull-out devices for countertops loosen quickly,
• horizontal blocks are inconvenient for connecting side forks.

When a refrigerator or oven is connected, the unit will remain open. The vertical blocks must be held by hand when turning the appliances on and off. Better yet, a built-in horizontal panel. But it also creates some inconvenience for units with side forks. Their cord rests on the lid or on the countertop.

Choosing a place for installing built-in socket modules

At the stage when the number of required connection points will be counted, it is worth deciding on the location of the socket blocks

First of all, you need to pay attention to the convenience and good accessibility of sockets.

If the built-in units will be installed in the kitchen, it should be borne in mind that household appliances can be located on three levels.

The lower level is the area of ​​floor cabinets, next to which the washing machine, dishwasher and oven are installed. Sockets for these devices are usually installed individually stationary, and mounted 150÷200 mm from the floor surface. For powerful equipment, as a rule, separate lines are provided with a cable of the appropriate section, equipped with both a ground loop and an RCD. Of course, you should not connect such equipment to sockets built into countertops.

The average level of placement of household appliances in the kitchen.

• The middle level is countertops with small household appliances placed on it, which include a food processor, electric kettle, coffee maker, blender, etc. That is, just our case - built-in blocks are great for these devices. Moreover, ordinary sockets installed on the kitchen "apron" will only spoil its design. Therefore, many owners tend to hide the connection points by embedding them in the countertop.
• The third level runs approximately 800÷1000 mm above the countertop. There are not so many appliances here - this is an extractor hood and a microwave oven. If they are in the same row with wall cabinets, then retractable or rotary units can be mounted in the walls or bottom of the latter. You can install sockets for connecting these devices above wall cabinets, stepping back from their surface 100 ÷ 120 mm. These connectors are also suitable for connecting a fan or air conditioner.That is, they usually again manage with stationary sockets.

On the desktop (computer) table - a little easier. It takes into account the number of possible peripheral devices that require connection to a power supply or other switching (IP, HDMI, USB, etc.) the place is selected for reasons of maximum convenience for the user. Since there should not be contact with water, there are no other restrictions.

Measures for safe operation

It should be correctly understood that the very essence of built-in retractable and rotary socket blocks is that they are used to connect devices with low power, and as the need arises. The rest of the time the module is in a hidden state. That is, as already mentioned, such always-on appliances as a refrigerator, microwave, washing or dishwasher, stove or oven, desktop computer or TV should be connected to ordinary sockets specially placed for them in a convenient place.

Do not mount built-in units so that, when open or closed, they are above or below the hob, sink, or on the countertop, but too close to these kitchen areas.

These requirements are determined by safety rules, since the ingress of water or steam into the module can lead to a short circuit, and overheating of the unit can lead to its melting and deformation. The distance to be observed between the named devices and the socket box is at least 600 mm.

• In addition, you should be aware that water spilled abundantly on the block cover can still penetrate inside the mechanism.Therefore, before pushing the device under the countertop, do not forget to press the button to turn it off from the mains - this will protect it from shorting out in case of an emergency.
• If water gets inside the unit when it was turned off (by pressing the button), it must be completely disconnected from the mains. Then you need to invite an electrician who will determine the health of the device and the possibility of its further operation.
• You should not set the maximum load for the outlet, especially if the manufacturer of the product is unknown, which means that there is no guarantee of its quality.
• When turning on and off the plug in the retractable vertical unit, it should be held by hand. Otherwise, you can quickly disable the "mechanics" of the module.

In product passports, manufacturers always give their own recommendations for the safe operation of such devices. Never skimp on these tips!

Important design points

To prevent the occurrence of emergencies, you need to consider a number of rules:

• The power of the power supply lines brought into the room should be twice the need of all connected devices. To determine this, we divide the room into sections, each of which has one outlet group. We calculate its power, double the result. We add the obtained values.
• We distribute energy consumers so that the total power of the equipment connected to one source does not exceed the allowable values.
• High power electrical equipment is best powered through separate lines with protective automation. Therefore, it is worth bringing the required number of such lines to the room from the switchboard. To make it easier to understand the wiring, each machine can be signed.

Instagram

For household appliances in a metal case, grounding is required. Therefore, the socket blocks intended for it should be correctly connected through the RCD or differential circuit breakers

The best option would be to calculate the approximate consumption of all devices. To do this, you can use the following average values:

• lighting 150-200 W;
• refrigerator 100 W;
• kettle 2000 W;
• microwave oven 2000 W;
• hob 3000-7500 W;
• oven 2000 W;
• dishwasher 1000-2000 W.

It is necessary to calculate the total power of the equipment. It should be in the range from 10 to 15 kW. At the same time, all equipment will not turn on, so you should not count on wiring for such values. However, it is necessary to determine the maximum possible power when several pantographs are connected. If it exceeds 7 kW, it is worth thinking about connecting a 380 V line and phase-by-phase load distribution.

Conclusion

So, we have considered what should be the height of the sockets above the kitchen worktop and the connection rules. It can be concluded that before installing these devices, you need to read all the recommendations in order to install correctly and in the right place. This is a completely simple procedure that does not take much time and saves money, since you do not have to pay a wizard for installation. Nevertheless, if there is absolutely no experience in installation, then it is better not to take risks and still call a specialist who will do everything quickly and efficiently. Also, the master can advise the correct installation locations for sockets, which will save the owners of the house from unnecessary trouble.

conclusions

Sockets on a glass kitchen apron are a necessary thing in the arsenal of any modern housewife.The main thing is to approach the matter responsibly and take into account possible errors. The planning stage is very important even at the stage of the beginning of the repair, then all the work will go like clockwork.

You are concerned about the question: how to install sockets on a glass apron? Interior glass studio InterGlass in Yekaterinburg will help you with this. Our masters will measure and install tempered glass wall panels with all the necessary cutouts.