The device of the indoor unit of the split system: how to disassemble the equipment for cleaning and repair

Disassembly of the external module

Dismantling a mobile or window air conditioner does not take much time - just remove the device from the window or remove the air duct. When disassembling a full-fledged split system, it is required to save all the refrigerant.

The connecting tubes through which freon is transported have different diameters. The thin channel serves to transport liquid refrigerant. A large tube is designed for pumping gaseous freon. When disassembling the air conditioner, it is necessary to “drive” the refrigerant into the outdoor module. Then you can turn off the main channels.To pump the refrigerant, it is necessary, when the device is running, to screw the pipe with liquid freon, which leaves the outdoor unit into the room. The device pumps the gaseous substance into the outdoor unit in 1 minute. After that, turn off the device immediately.

After disconnecting the device from the mains, disconnect the cables by marking the terminals.

The copper channels through which the refrigerant is transported can be straightened by yourself with care. Together with them, the electric cable is removed into the room.

It is screwed to the end of the tube. Then you need to unscrew the nuts that hold the outdoor module. Remove the block together. Lastly, the brackets are removed from the wall.

The removed outdoor unit requires vertical storage and transportation. To avoid possible damage, it is placed in a box with foam.

Device

The indoor unit of a split air conditioner consists of a number of important parts and functional units.

1. The body of the block is the basis of the product, insensitive to temperature changes. Manufactured from high quality plastic for harsh environments.
2. Removable front grille providing heated air inlet and cooled air outlet.
3. Coarse filter that retains fluff, large particles. Designed to be cleansed at least once every two weeks.
4. Evaporator coil - a device that provides the transfer of cold or heat (depending on the mode of operation) into the interior of a building or structure.
5. A radiator that allows the refrigerant (freon) to heat up and evaporate.
6. Indication panel with LEDs - reports on operating modes, load level, warns of a possible danger of device failure.
7. A fan (blower) that allows the air flow to move at different speeds. The speed of its motor is regulated smoothly or in steps.
8. Vertical and horizontal electric blinds are automatic blinds that direct the flow of cooled air to the right place in the room.
9. Fine filter that traps dust present in the air.
10. Module of electronic control and management.
11. Condensate trap designed to collect drops of water protruding on the evaporator.
12. A module with branch pipes to which the "route" is connected - copper tubes for the output of hot and input of cold freon into the internal evaporator. The tubes at the other ends are connected to the coil of the external unit of the air conditioner - the corresponding outlets of the room module are located at the back, closer to one of its sides.

How to operate a gauge station

The station building is a block. On its side surface there are two nozzles. There are two different tubes coming from them.

1. The thin one ensures the transfer of liquid refrigerant from the condenser to the evaporator.
2. Thanks to a thick tube, freon gas enters the condenser unit.

Each fitting has a special valve. It is needed in order to block the supply of freon.

Filling the condenser with freon is carried out according to the standard system.

1. Protective covers of branch pipes and nipples are dismantled.
2. The nipple is connected to the manifold.
3. The air conditioner turns on and the maximum cooling mode is set.
4. After that, you should wait 4-5 minutes and close the valve of the pipe, which is responsible for the supply of liquid freon. This action interrupts the supply of refrigerant to the evaporator.
5. Pressure control is carried out using a manometer.

For the last stage of work with the manometric station, an assistant is required. The fact is that as soon as the indicator shows -1 MPa, you must immediately close the gas fitting. If you delay, the compressor pump will start to idle, and this will negatively affect the performance of the entire air conditioner as a whole.

When is the best time to remove an air conditioner?

Many companies have seasonal discounts, and very significant ones.

Seasonality practically does not affect the cost of services for the dismantling of climate equipment. But it is much more important to take into account the weather conditions during the work.
So, it is not necessary to carry out dismantling in the winter, since low temperatures will significantly complicate the work or make it simply impossible (for example, due to the need to release freon). It should not be dismantled in rain and snow, as moisture can damage the elements of the outdoor unit. If there is no rain, snow and frost, then please dismantle your device.

Preparatory work

Ignoring the advice of professionals will certainly lead to incorrect shutdown of the air conditioner

Before dismantling the air conditioner yourself, you need to carry out preparatory work.
And this applies not only to the preparation of the tool.

So, the dismantling of the device can be carried out without first pumping freon into the device. A freon leak is not so easily replenished. If you refill the entire system with refrigerant, you will have to fork out. So, this operation for inexpensive air conditioners will cost about 4 thousand rubles. (depending on the refrigerant used).

If we talk about self-dismantling the air conditioner, then this can be done in three ways.Let's take a quick look at them.

• Disassembly of the device, which involves the release of freon.
• Saving inside the split gas system.
• Complete preservation of freon using a special technique and the use of special equipment.

The last option is considered the most effective, since it does not involve any losses. What do experts advise? They strongly recommend keeping all the refrigerant, because in this case, when installing the device in a new place, there will be no problems.

To independently turn off the air conditioner without any significant loss of freon, it is necessary to ensure the transfer of the latter to the condenser.
To do this, with the device operating in the cooling mode, the valve must be closed between the small diameter tube and the air conditioner. After pumping all the refrigerant into the condenser (it will take no more than a minute), close the valve on the tube of the largest diameter, thereby turning off the freon supply.

Installation order

In order to correctly and efficiently install a split system with your own hands, you need to do it in this order:

• first you need to install the internal equipment;
• then prepare communication channels;
• lay connecting lines in the channels;
• install an outdoor unit;
• connect blocks with electric and gas mains;
• evacuate the system and check its tightness;
• fill the system with refrigerant (freon).

Internal equipment

The indoor unit is attached to the wall using the supplied steel frame. Usually there is a drawing in the instructions, which indicates the location of the holes on the bearing surface of the wall.But it’s easier to take the frame itself and mark the attachment points to the wall right along it.

Take the mounting frame and place it on the wall where you plan to mount the indoor unit. Use a spirit level to make sure the frame is level. If the frame is tilted to the left or right, moisture inside the air conditioner may accumulate at one end and not reach the condensate drain pipe.

After making sure the frame is horizontal, use it as a template to mark the wall. Using a perforator, make holes in the wall of the required diameter using the marks. Fasten the support frame to the wall with dowels, screws or screws.

After the carrier frame is fixed, it is necessary to prepare the channels through which the connecting lines will pass. First, mark a line on the wall along which communications should pass. Among other things, there will be a drainage tube. In order for water to flow freely into the street, the line of highways must have a slight slope, which is checked by the building level.

You can deepen the lines into the wall. To do this, using a wall chaser, you will have to make channels 35-40 mm deep and 50-75 mm wide. This is bad because if you need to repair the air conditioner, you will have to ruin the wall.

It is easier to lay lines in a plastic box. A standard cable channel with a cross section of 60x80 mm is well suited. Plastic boxes are attached to the wall with screws or dowels. Sometimes cable channels are attached to concrete with construction adhesive, but this is not suitable for installing air conditioning systems. The fact is that copper lines and electrical wires are quite heavy.

outdoor module

It is quite difficult to install the external part of the split system on your own.The outdoor module has a large weight and significant dimensions. The matter is complicated by the fact that the work will have to be carried out outside the premises, moreover, at a considerable height.

First, prepare one hole for the top mount of one of the brackets. Fix the top of the bracket and, having installed it strictly vertically, mark the place of the lower attachment. After one bracket is fixed, you can mark the place for the second.

Using the building level, make a mark on the wall so that the second bracket is at the right distance from the first, strictly at the same level. Attach it the same way you attached the first one.

The most difficult thing is to install the outdoor module on the brackets. Due to the fact that there is a compressor inside it, the outdoor module can weigh up to 20 kg. Just in case, tie the module with strong tape or rope and do not remove this insurance until you have completely secured the module to the brackets.

How to dismantle the indoor unit of a split system?

The indoor unit of the air conditioner is removed from the mounts only after dismantling the outdoor unit.

Care must also be taken here, especially with the evaporator clamps of the equipment itself. If these elements are damaged, subsequently the newly installed unit will vibrate during operation, which will cause it to break.

How to dismantle the air conditioner yourself:

1. remove the front panel so that you can get to the latches;
2. disconnect the pipeline of the cooling circuit;
3. turn off the power supply;
4. remove the evaporator (carefully unfasten the latches closed by the lid)
5. press the clamps of the indoor unit, remove it from the guides;
6. dismantle the plate on which the indoor unit was attached;
7. remove the cooling circuit pipeline from the wall gates;
8. remove the drain pipe;
9. dismantle the decorative box.

Why is it necessary to lower the freon

The air conditioner is an indispensable technique that can quickly cool the room on a hot day. However, sometimes situations arise when it needs to be dismantled. In certain cases, this is very easy to do. For example, when the equipment is completely out of order, and they are not going to repair it. During such work, there is no need to maintain the tightness of the main components of the air conditioner.

If the air conditioner works properly, but it needs to be removed, then the principle of operation is different. The main thing here is to make sure that dust and air do not get inside the system. If this happens, then after installation and start-up of the device, the compressor will almost certainly break down. The main reason for this is the complex design of the vacuum pump.

The principle of operation of the split system

It is connected with the properties of freon. It is very fluid, very cold at the inlet and very hot at the outlet. Therefore, conventional pumps or compressors are not used in the air conditioner device. The fact is that their gaskets and seals simply would not withstand constant operation in conditions of constant temperature differences. High tightness of the vacuum pump is achieved by high-precision matching of the surfaces of moving parts and the inner surfaces of the chambers. This is a very complex and delicate work, since even the smallest scratch can cause the compressor to fail. A grain of ice, which forms if air gets inside, can break the air conditioner. As a result, moisture freezes and can cause damage.

To avoid these problems, modern air conditioners are immediately filled with an inert gas, which is removed before the system is filled with freon. For this, a vacuum pump is used.

Workplace preparation

It is necessary to escort people who are unnecessary at the moment from the territory or place of work, to ensure the safety of passers-by by putting identification marks. If work is carried out on the load-bearing wall of a high-rise building, the place is cordoned off with a red and white tape. The fact is that if a spare part or tool accidentally falls from the 15th floor, then this item can kill a passerby or break a car glass.

If safety equipment is used, work out a plan for its use. It will save you from unpleasant and even catastrophic consequences. Place the tools in an accessible place - this will give your work efficiency.

Varieties

At the dawn of its century, split air conditioners were produced in a single version: a wall-mounted indoor unit suspended close to the ceiling. Now the following options are produced: wall, cassette, wall-ceiling, channel, column and mobile. Each of the varieties of the indoor unit is good for some types of premises and bad for others, while boasting the presence of certain parameters that air conditioners of a different type do not have. The buyer determines which block dimensions are suitable for his case and with what fasteners and structures he will hang it.

Wall

The wall-mounted indoor unit of the air conditioner appeared before the other options. Over the years, he has gained a truly impressive popularity. This view is placed exclusively in the room. It absorbs warm air, giving out cooler air instead.The outdoor unit, located on the outer side of the load-bearing wall, is connected to the indoor unit using wiring and a “route”.

The advantages of the wall unit are as follows:

• compactness - a solution for small rooms;
• very low noise level;
• a large set of functions and capabilities in modern and more expensive models (for example, some air conditioners often act as an air ionizer);
• The design is such that the block itself will organically fit into the interior of any room.

Cassette

In cassette form, the indoor unit is joined to the armstrong false ceiling compartments. The sidewalls of the unit are easy to hide if the distance between the false ceiling and the ceiling allows this. At the same time, it is easy to save free space in the room - the walls are free. Actual for rooms with low (2.5 ... 3 m) ceilings.

Pros:

• effective air cooling from above (immediately from the ceiling);
• switching operating modes using a remote or wall panel;
• hiding from strangers;
• increased power.

Cassette indoor units are the most efficient. They are a mandatory attribute of restaurants or cafes, shops, offices or shopping and entertainment centers. Suitable for rooms separated by partitions, where installing an air conditioner in each such compartment would be costly.

Minuses:

• suspended ceiling required
• difficulties when installing in a pre-prepared place: the ceiling should be easy to disassemble.

Floor-ceiling

The indoor unit of such an air conditioner is placed horizontally (on the ceiling). Vertical installation - on the wall near the floor. The scope is a large room without a false ceiling, where the performance of a wall-mounted unit is not enough.The demand for such air conditioners is among the owners of trading floors and offices.

Pros:

• high cooling capacity;
• suitability for elongated, round, figured rooms;
• comfortable temperature throughout the room;
• lack of drafts, subsequently causing visitors to catch a cold.

ducted

Channel air conditioners are designed to cool entire floors and buildings or a group of offices located nearby, several apartments on the same floor. Internal modules are installed behind false ceilings or hidden in the attic. Only the ventilation grilles of channels and devices protrude outside, distributing the blown in cold and blown out heated air. The channel system is complex.

Advantages:

• hiding devices and channels from the eyes of visitors;
• communication with outdoor air at times when cooling is turned off;
• lowering the temperature to comfortable values ​​\u200b\u200bin several rooms at once.

Disadvantages of a duct cooling system:

• complexity of installation, time costs;
• uneven temperature drop in different rooms.

column apparatus

The column system is the most powerful of all known. It is used in halls and shopping malls - on hundreds and thousands of square meters of territory. The column block is placed in an adjacent (technical) room.

Such a system is also not without its drawbacks:

• large mass of the column module;
• extreme cold near the air conditioner.

The second drawback easily turns into a plus: a refrigeration room is organized in the technical room, where perishable products need emergency cooling, for which the air conditioner turns on at a power above average and maintains a temperature near zero. Excess cold is discharged into the common room with the help of supply and exhaust ventilation.

Mobile

Plus mobile air conditioner - ease of movement. It weighs no more (or a little more) than a vacuum cleaner.

Flaws:

• punching a hole in the outer wall of a house or building for an air duct, however, it is realized in the form of a plug with thermal insulation, closed for the winter;
• troubles when draining condensate;
• low, in comparison with blocks of other types, performance.

Precautions

Any modern split system, which includes domestic air conditioning, consists of blocks for indoor and outdoor location. They are connected by two lines through which the refrigerant moves. Freon in a liquid state circulates through a tube of a smaller diameter from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit, it also circulates in the opposite direction through a thicker copper tube, but in a gaseous state.

This is where the problems lie that can spoil all your actions when trying to remove the air conditioner yourself.

As a result of improper shutdown of the main pipelines, a partial or complete loss of freon may occur.
Air containing moisture can get into the tubes and the heat exchanger, which is fraught with breakdown when the air conditioner is operating in a new place - incompressible moisture enters the compressor and disables it.
Small particles entering the copper pipes when they are pulled through the wall or during improper transportation leads to a quick breakdown of the system.
Particular attention should be paid to the threaded leads soldered to the tubes, if they are damaged, then a very expensive repair will be required.
Incorrect wire disconnection. If you do not put special marks on the terminals, it may lead to incorrect connection in a new place.
If you cut the drain pipe too short, which leads the condensate outside the outdoor unit, you doom yourself to its premature complete replacement.
During transportation of the product to a new place of service, there is a danger of losing small fasteners and parts if they are not securely fixed after disassembly.

All of the cases listed above lead to a very expensive repair of the entire system, so before you start dismantling the air conditioner with your own hands, read the instructions.

In what cases it is not necessary to remove the air conditioner

Based on the scale of the planned repair and the tightness of the indoor unit against the wall, instead of immediately starting to dismantle the air conditioning system, you can resort to another way to resolve the issue.

Case #1

If you plan to re-paste the wallpaper and the gap between the wall and the indoor unit is large enough, then it is not necessary to dismantle the entire air conditioner, it is enough to disconnect the unit from the plate.

Case #2

If during the repair you plan to plaster and level the walls, then you can also dismantle only the indoor unit. Upon completion of the repair, the length of the communication should be enough to re-mount the module.

Case #3

There are cases when the block must be dismantled with the track. This can be caused by a number of circumstances:

• planned "lowering" of the ceiling;
• nuts for connecting the route to the module are located in the wall;
• in order to prevent the connection of nuts inside the wall after repair;
• to move the indoor unit.

Dismantling in winter

Many users are interested in the question: how remove split system in winter, when due to low temperatures it is not possible to pump the refrigerant into the condenser. The oil in the compressor will thicken, and all attempts to turn it on can end very badly.

If you have a special model equipped with a kit where there is a heater for the compressor crankcase and the entire drainage line, as well as a block that slows down the rotation of the fan, then your intentions will succeed. In its absence, you can use a special refrigerant collection station, which is connected similarly to a manometric manifold.

A few more practical tips: you can start dismantling yourself only when you are completely confident in your own capabilities, and there is a qualified partner. Also, the presence of a special tool makes the job much easier.

Principle of operation

The split air conditioner itself, despite dozens of details, is ingeniously simple to operate. The working fluid for the air conditioner, as well as for the refrigerator, is the refrigerant (freon). Being in a liquefied state, it takes heat during evaporation. Due to the absorption of heat, the air in the room is effectively cooled.

The scheme is so arranged that the split air conditioner works as follows:

• as soon as both units are connected to the network, and the operating mode is selected, the blowing fan turns on;
• the blower draws the heated air in the room into the indoor unit - and delivers it to the heat exchanger coil;
• the freon that began to evaporate takes away heat, turning from a liquid into a gas, from which the temperature of the refrigerant drops;
• cold gaseous freon lowers the temperature of the air sent by the fan to the evaporator, upon reaching the temperature specified when setting the operating mode, the indoor unit turns on the fan again, blowing a cooled portion of air back into the room.

The cycle is restarted. So the air conditioner maintains the set temperature in the room.

Dismantling the ceiling air conditioner

The ceiling air conditioner is installed when the armstrong suspended ceiling is not yet fully installed. So, there are no tiled segments at the installation site of the air conditioning module. For the frame, only suspensions are embedded in the concrete floor. In this case, the frames holding the aluminum or fiber tile are outlined, but not assembled or partially installed.

Often the air conditioner is installed together with a new ceiling - during the overhaul of a building or structure. To remove a ceiling-mounted indoor unit, remove the adjacent false ceiling tiled sections. Then dismantle the block itself. Extreme care is required - the wall on which it rests may not be nearby. When the air conditioner is installed in the middle of the ceiling, next to the lamp. Don't forget to install the ceiling sections in their original positions.

Functions and characteristics

The main function of the indoor unit is to cool the room in summer and heat it in winter. But modern split air conditioners have a number of additional features and capabilities, for example:

• self-diagnosis sensor, which makes it possible to identify the most common problems and notify the owner about them;
• the ability to set the operating mode from a smartphone or tablet;
• components and modules that prevent the air conditioner from deviating from a specific mode of operation;
• LCD screen with detailed indication of the operating mode of the air conditioner;
• built-in ionizer - enriches the air with healthy negative ions;
• auto-swinging curtains - an effective measure against a constant draft;
• change the fan speed to your preferences;
• automatic choice between cooling and heating - in the off-season with significant daily temperature fluctuations;
• work timer - makes it possible not to “drive” the air conditioner when you are not in the room;
• prevention of icing of the coil in the heat exchanger - reduces the number of starts and stops of the compressor, which prolongs the life of the device.

The parameters by which the air conditioner is evaluated (in terms of the indoor unit):

• output power for heating and cooling (in watts);
• the same, but the values ​​of the consumed electrical power (similarly);
• operating current for cooling and heating the room (in amperes);
• the amount of cooled air (number of cubic meters per hour);
• noise pollution (noise level in decibels);
• diameter of pipelines (for liquid and gaseous freon, in millimeters);
• maximum length of pipelines (routes, in meters);
• maximum difference in height between outdoor and indoor units;
• dimensions and weight (in millimeters and kilograms, respectively).

For the outdoor unit, the noise figure, dimensions and weight are the main ones.

Required inventory

You will need the following toolkit:

• screwdriver and a set of bits for it;
• a device for vacuuming and filling with freon, a cylinder with a compressed refrigerant;
• side cutters and pliers;
• a pair of adjustable wrenches (20 and 30 mm);
• a pair of box or open-end wrenches (the value depends on the nuts used);
• flat and curly screwdrivers;
• a set of hexagons;
• electrical tape or tape;
• a set of heads for keys;
• clamp or mini vise;
• mounting knife.

If the air conditioner is on the ground floor, you can easily reach the outdoor unit from a ladder or a lightweight "transformer". Dismantling the air conditioner on the second floor may require a three-section sliding ladder. For the third and higher floors, a truck crane is rented. Climbing above the 5th floor may require a special outdoor lift used by builders or the services of industrial climbers. The dismantling of the outdoor unit, if freon preservation is required, is not carried out in parts. The compressor and refrigeration circuit must not be separated. To remove the outdoor unit indiscriminately, the help of a partner is required: a powerful split system weighs about 20 kg.

How to remove the outdoor unit from the wall

First of all, provide the necessary tools. To remove the air conditioner yourself, you will need:

• adjustable or gas key;
• hexagons;
• open-end and socket wrenches;
• indicator screwdriver;
• pipe cutter;
• manometer or manometric station.

First, dismantle the external module - compressor and condenser unit or KKB.

Step 1.
With an adjustable or wrench on the end side of the KKB, open the valve plugs.

Step 2
Close the liquid valve of the outdoor unit. Use a hex key.

Step 3
In order for all the freon to pass into the external module, the air conditioner is started in cooling mode for 30-40 seconds. As soon as the compressor began to work only for suction, a manometric station is connected to the valve from the gas pipeline and they wait for the indicators to reset. Close the freon return valve immediately.

Step 4
The system is completely de-energized.Before proceeding to the next step of removing the air conditioner from the wall, check the absence of current with an indicator screwdriver by inserting it into the phase terminal.

Step 5
Now the freon line is cut with a pipe cutter, since it is a non-removable structural element. The remaining ends must be insulated from moisture and debris. You can use electrical tape for this.

Step 6
. Carefully disconnect the drain piping and interconnect wires. It is also desirable to wrap the ends of the electrical wires and the drainage tube with protective material.

Step 7
. Now proceed to dismantle the device itself. How to remove the outdoor unit of the air conditioner from the brackets? To disconnect it from nuts and bolts, use an open-end or socket wrench. Since the KKB usually has considerable weight, it is advisable to take a second person to help.

Step 8
. The brackets are removed from the surface of the building or balcony by unscrewing the shut-off valves with an end head.

After the air conditioner has already been removed from the wall, proceed to its packaging. To do this, you will need a multilayer cardboard box, foam plastic and soft packaging film on a roll.

If transportation is planned for the winter, you need to dismantle the air conditioner from the wall so that all the freon does not leak out. To do this, be sure to use a manometric station. But most experts advise to drain the refrigerant and then completely recharge the circuit.