Sewerage in a private house: what to put - a cesspool, a septic tank or a treatment station?

Principles of laying the sewer system

The drainage system is equipped in various ways:

• the simplest, when the waste is drained directly into the cesspool;
• two wells - one for solid particles with a sealed bottom, the second without a bottom for filtering and draining water into the ground, the wells are installed in series;
• an option with a pumping station, if the site is low and the wastewater needs to be raised higher - this principle is suitable if the sewer truck cannot enter the site.

If sewerage is being done for the first time, then it is better to invite a specialist who is familiar with the type of soil in the region and can advise which principle of arranging sewer drains will work best. It happens that on clay soil, the sanitary and epidemiological station does not allow the installation of double wells due to the poor filtration capacity of the soil. Therefore, there will be one way out, he is the same simple - common cesspool.

Do pipes need to be insulated?

There are some recommendations on how to operate the system in winter. If you do not allow the container to be filled to the full, then freezing can be avoided. When the septic tank is full, the drains partially exit into the sewer. The diameter of the inlet pipe is relatively small, and in this place the liquid can freeze.

Requirements

It is customary to work out the sewerage distribution scheme in a cottage at the design stage of a residential building. It is better to determine in advance the location of all plumbing and pipes in the house. Do-it-yourself installation of sewage pipelines with your own hands or with the involvement of plumbers is carried out after the walls have been erected, but before finishing.

Sewerage layout in the house

In order for the internal sewage system to work properly and without blockages, it is necessary:

• observe the proper slope of the drain pipes from the plumbing to the riser;
• minimize the number of turns and bends in sewer pipelines;
• correctly choose the size and material of pipe products;
• provide for the possibility of removing gases from the sewerage system (fan outlet);
• put siphons to form hydraulic seals;
• install hatches for revision and cleaning in the right places;
• make thermal insulation of the sewer pipe on the street and in the basement (if necessary).

Norms for the location of treatment facilities on the site

There is a lot of confusion in this area. There are many conflicting norms with different distances, and in different regions these norms may differ, so you need to find out for sure in the local plumbing supervision. The most common standards can be grouped:

• From the house:
  • to the septic tank - at least 5 m;
  • filtering device (absorption well, sand and gravel filter, filter trench) - at least 8 m;
  • to the filtration field - 15 m;

  • to the aeration unit - not less than 15 m;

• From the well and well (own or neighbor's):
  • at least 15 meters if the septic tank is located against the flow of groundwater;
  • at least 30 m if the septic tank is downstream of groundwater;
  • at least 19 m if standing perpendicular;
• To the border of the neighboring site - at least 4 m;
• At least 1 m from the border of your site.

One more moment. If there is a slope on the site, then the well or well should be located above all treatment facilities. To keep all these distances, you will have to conjure over the site plan for a long time.

If everything cannot be observed at once, special attention is paid to the distance to the neighbor's house and the well (well), since a violation is fraught with a complaint, followed by checks and fines.

Types of sewer systems

All types of drain communications can be divided into two types - autonomous and centralized. The first option is characterized drain pit device or septic tank, treatment plant.Household and organic waste from them is either pumped out and taken to designated areas for treatment and processing, or cleaned on site using a system of filters and sedimentation tanks. When installing a centralized sewerage system, effluents go to the citywide (rural, township) system.

Since a centralized installation of sewerage in a private house is relatively rare, only in dense urban or rural areas, our article will mainly consider an autonomous system.

Allocate options:

• drain pit for temporary use. It is typical for street toilets, where, in addition to biological waste, liquid household waste is also sent. The pit in this case, after filling, is dug in and dug out in another place. Applicable only for rare use by unpretentious people;
• drain pit with pumping. It is possible both for toilets installed inside the house and drains from the sink / bath / sink / washing machine and dishwasher, as well as for outdoor “amenities”. It is mandatory to waterproof the walls of a concrete or brick container;
• cesspool with devices for partial clarification of drain waters. A filter well or a single-chamber septic tank is used as a working element. The well / septic tank periodically accumulates solid waste to be removed;
• multi-chamber septic tanks (otherwise filtering or treatment plants). The level of wastewater treatment in these devices allows you to dump clarified waste directly into the ground or a nearby body of water.

An autonomous sewage system for a private house can be arranged according to any of the options, but it is necessary to take into account the restrictions on the amount of waste that can be processed or allowed to be dumped:

• a temporary drain pit is actually a "disposable" structure. Its volume rarely exceeds 5 ... 10 cubic meters, so immediately after filling it ceases to be usable;
• with timely pumping out, drain pits in the form of a concrete or brick container with waterproofing can be used to service a small private house / cottage / guest outbuilding. The volume of such pits is also 5 ... 15 cubic meters, so the use of a washing machine / dishwasher and the active operation of the shower / bath will have to be limited;
• the performance of single-chamber septic tanks or filter wells is limited by their volume and design, but with the right choice of device, they are suitable for a family of 2 ... 5 people using water in normal mode;
• multi-chamber septic tanks and treatment plants are designed for active water use, the variety of their models allows you to choose a specific device for the planned volume of wastewater.

Of course, do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house is the easiest and fastest to arrange according to the first and second options. Installation of septic tanks requires either sufficient skills in the construction and laying of communications, or the involvement of specialists.

Single chamber septic tank: advantages and disadvantages

Many homeowners are interested in the question of how a do-it-yourself sewer is installed in a private house when using a single-chamber septic tank in its design. This is essentially the same well, only the bottom in it is covered with rubble. In this case, the thickness of the backfill should not exceed 30 cm. Sand is poured on top of the crushed stone. It must be coarse-grained. The layer of coarse sand should also be 30 cm.

Thanks to such a simple design, the wastewater that enters the well from the pipes undergoes a two-stage treatment. Thanks to a layer of crushed stone and sand, they are cleaned by about 50% from contaminants in the water. This design is most often used in country houses and cottages.

But again, there is the same problem here as with the cesspool. If there are too many drains, then you should not make such structures. Wastewater will not have time to be completely cleaned and, accordingly, will penetrate into the soil in a polluted form. You should also remember that periodically you need to change this crushed stone and sand. Moreover, the frequency of replacement directly depends on the number of these same drains.

As you can see, the rules are quite simple. And if they are strictly observed, then it will be possible to build a high-quality and modern sewer system. And the best part is that it will be made by hand.

And it doesn't matter anymore

But still, if the owner of the house does not have sufficient knowledge of the installation of pipes and other necessary structures, then it is better to use the services of a professional specialist. Alternatively, you can study a detailed video on how to properly route pipes and how exactly they are connected to each other and directly to plumbing equipment.

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External sewerage

Scheme of the sewerage system

The external elements of the sewerage include sedimentation tanks, wells and supply pipes. The term of creation and features of operation directly depend on the type of system you have chosen.

The following factors influence the placement of any of the selected options:

• how deep is the sewage
• relief of the local area
• how hard does the soil freeze in winter
• availability of wells in the area
• soil structure
• passage of other communications on the site

Installation of a drain well

sewer well

Installation of a drain well

The easiest option for external sewage is a drain well. How to make it with your own hands?

1. Decide where to dig the hole for the well. The well should be located slightly lower than the house
2. Dig a supply channel from the house to the pit and the pit itself
   Choose the material for lining the walls of the tank
3. Collect a well, bring a pipe from the house
4. Fill in the moat and mount the cover for the tank

The most common tank wall materials are:

• ready-made concrete rings or blocks. For the installation of such structures, lifting equipment is required.
• monolithic structures. In this case, the prepared pit is poured with concrete using metal fittings. There are monolithic septic compartments.

The drain well can be airtight and screening. If you choose airtight, then the bottom of the pit will also need to be laid. At the bottom of screening wells, as a rule, crushed stone or pebbles are poured so that they pass part of the runoff into the soil.

Installation of a septic tank

Installation of a septic tank

Installation of a septic tank

Before starting the construction of a septic tank, you need to prepare its project. The project must take into account the volume of the future structure, take into account construction and sanitary standards. Those who are faced with a similar problem for the first time are advised to seek help in drafting a project from specialists. But you can try to make a project yourself

The most important part of the preparation is the calculation of the volume of the septic tank compartments. In order for wastewater treatment to be carried out as efficiently as possible, wastewater must be in the drain chamber for 3 days. You need to calculate the volume of drained liquid according to the number of people living in the house

Preparation of pits, ditches. Roem a pit for cameras and a ditch from the house for a pipe

We determine the material for septic chambers

Camera assembly. We mount cameras in the pit

Pay special attention to the tightness of the compartments, the joints must be sealed, well sealed

Connection. At the final stage, we connect the pipes to the septic tank and conduct a test
It is necessary to take into account the norms for the placement of waste structures on a personal plot

The most common materials for septic chambers:

• ready-made concrete rings or blocks. For the installation of such structures, lifting equipment is required.
• monolithic structures. In this case, the prepared pit is poured with concrete using metal fittings. Monolithic septic compartments exit

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Installation steps

For internal sewerage gray pipes are used

You need to install a home sewer from its inside. In all rooms with sanitary equipment (kitchen, bathroom, swimming pool, sauna), pipes are mounted towards the riser. The wiring is made from tubes with a diameter of 50 mm. A pipe with a cross section of 110 mm is connected to the toilet.

All joints, connections must be treated with sealant. In places of conclusions for household washing appliances, plugs are installed.

The riser is brought to the foundation, in which a hole with a diameter of 130-160 mm is pre-punched.A metal sleeve must be inserted into it. Through it, the collector pipe is taken out. The outlet of the outer pipe is qualitatively insulated, the gaps between the sleeve and the foundation are concreted.

External sewerage

Initially, you will have to dig trenches under the collector. They are dug from the very exit of the pipe from the house and up to the intended location of the septic tank. The depth of digging depends on the level of soil freezing in the region, as a rule, it is at least 70-90 cm. The upper edge of the laid pipe should be at this mark from the soil surface.

During the digging of trenches, the slope specified by SNiP is observed. The final receiver of wastewater must be located below the outlet sewer pipe from at home. Then they work like this:

• A pillow of sand is poured at the bottom of the trenches and it is well rammed.
• Pipes are laid on the base, securely connecting them.
• The fully assembled system is checked for leaks. If there are no leaks, the water leaves the house freely, you can backfill the collector. At the same time, the soil is not heavily rammed. It will settle down on its own in time. If necessary, then pour more earth on top.

Septic tank device

At the final stage of work during the installation of a private sewer, you need to build a home-made septic tank. As the simplest option, you can use a tank in the form of a plastic barrel. Some are building a sewage pit from car tires, concrete rings. Plastic is easier to work with. The principle of installation of a two-chamber septic tank looks like this:

Pits are dug under the tanks in accordance with the parameters of the barrels. At the same time, the depth and width of the pit is increased by 30-40 cm under the base and backfill.
The bottom of the pit is carefully rammed. Pour a sand cushion of moistened sand.It is well sealed.
A wooden formwork is placed on the sand under the first chamber and a concrete solution 20-30 cm thick is poured.
The bottom of the second tank is made drainage. A layer of fine gravel is poured onto a pillow of sand, and broken brick or cobblestone is placed on top.
After the solution has dried, both tanks are placed next to each other.

It is important that there are no distortions.
Both chambers connect overflow pipe at the level of 40 cm from the bottom of the barrels.
A drain/sewage pipe is connected to the first receiver in its upper part. All joints are well sealed.
The tanks are filled with water and only after that they are backfilled with thorough compaction of the soil. If the barrels are not filled with water, they may subsequently burst in the soil.
The top of the septic tank chambers is covered with hatches.

If the barrels are not filled with water, they may subsequently burst in the soil.
The top of the septic tank chambers is covered with hatches.

Types of sewer systems in private homes

The external street part of the sewerage of a country house can be arranged in the form of:

• sealed storage tank;
• septic tank (with one or more cameras);
• septic tank with infiltrator;
• biological stations with aerobic purification.

Plus, there are still cesspools, but they should only be used in summer cottages with small volumes of effluents. For the arrangement of sewage in a cottage with permanent residence of two or three people, you should choose only a full-fledged septic tank. Moreover, in some cases, a simple accumulator will be an ideal choice, and in others, a cleansing station with aerobic microorganisms.

Before buying a particular model, you need to carefully weigh everything.

It is important here that the number of people living in the house, and the amount of wastewater in cubic meters per day, and the characteristics of the soil in the adjacent area

Storage tank, hermetic container

The storage tank is customary to choose at a high level groundwater (GWL). This hermetic container is not afraid of rains and floods, sewage will come out of it only in an emergency. It is best to make such a drive from concrete rings or iron tank. Comes out cheap and fast. The only drawback of this sewage option is the constant cost of calling a sewage truck every two to three weeks to pump out sewage.

Installation of a sewer storage tank

Single chamber septic tank

A single-chamber septic tank is a slightly improved classic cesspool in the form of a well with a drainage bottom. The purification of wastewater in it occurs due to the passage of water from the internal sewerage of a private house through several layers of gravel and sand. It is not necessary to call vacuum trucks here, but it will be necessary to clean and wash the gravel-sand drainage twice a year. Such an option to make money comes out inexpensively, but it can only cope with a small amount of waste mass (suitable only for families of a couple of people).

What is the difference between a single-chamber and a two-chamber septic tank

Two-chamber septic tank with overflow settling wells

A septic tank with two or three chambers is a design of several overflow wells. The first (and the second for sludge, if any) is made airtight, and the last, on the contrary, comes with drainage at the bottom. Such a sewerage system is able to clean sufficiently large volumes of effluents from a private house and does not require special attention. However, if the groundwater is highly located, then such a septic structure will have to be abandoned.

The device of a two-chamber septic tank

Septic tank with filtration field

If the GWL is high and the cottage is large, then a septic tank with a filtration field or an infiltrator can be mounted to clean the sewerage. In this case, the drainage of water into the soil also occurs through a sand and gravel filter. However, here it is located at the bottom of a narrow vertical well, and on a “field” located away from the foundation of the house in the form of drainage pipes or a large infiltration structure.

Filtration field device options

Septic tank with biofilter

An anaerobic septic tank with a biofilter for money will cost more than the options listed above. However, it is more efficient and productive. Plus water after cleaning in it can be use for watering garden or car wash. Such a station is made at the factory made of plastic or fiberglass and inside is divided into compartments. Effluent gradually flows into it through several chambers, one of which contains special organic-eating bacteria. The result is 90–95% purified water at the outlet.

Septic tank with biofilter

Septic tank with forced air supply

An aerobic septic tank (an active biological treatment station) is the maximum in terms of productivity and efficiency, which is among autonomous sewerage systems for private house. Wastewater treatment here is carried out by aerobic microorganisms that need a constant supply of oxygen. This is done using an electric pump, such a septic tank is volatile. But on the other hand, the rate of “eating” organic matter by bacteria is high, and the degree of purification fluctuates around 98–99%. A serious minus is the high cost of the station.

The device and principle of operation of a septic tank with forced ventilation

Do-it-yourself sewerage arrangement in the bath: a step-by-step guide

As in the case of a residential building, the sewerage of a bath includes an internal and external system. Even if the building has a dry steam room, it will be necessary to drain the liquid from the shower. The water collection system depends on how the floors are installed. The sewerage scheme is entered into the bath project at the development stage and is laid at the initial stage of construction even before the floors are equipped.

If it is planned to install wooden floors from boards, then the elements can be laid closely or with small gaps. If the coating is installed tightly, the floors are formed with a slope from one wall to another. Next, you should find the lowest point near the wall and leave a gap in this place, where the gutter will be subsequently installed (also with a slope). At the lowest point of its placement, a connection is made to the sewer outlet pipe.

If the wooden flooring will be made with slots, small gaps (5 mm) should be left between the boards. A concrete base is made under the floor with a slope towards the central part of the room. A gutter and a sewer pipe will be installed in this area. Instead of a concrete base, metal pallets can be laid on top of the insulated floor under a wooden deck. If the floors are self-leveling or tiled, a water intake ladder is installed at the lower point of the slope, which drains the drains into the pipe.

Using septic tanks for drains from the bath

A step-by-step guide to building a sewer in a bath with your own hands

For installation of sewer pipes it is necessary to form ditches with a slope of 2 cm per 1 m. Their depth is 50-60 cm. A pillow should be made at the bottom of these trenches.To do this, a layer of sand 15 cm thick is poured and carefully compacted. In this case, do not forget about the slope.

Next, the installation of the sewer line is carried out. Polypropylene pipes with a diameter of 100 mm are laid in trenches. If necessary, a sewer riser is equipped. It must be fixed to the wall with clamps. Be sure to organize ventilation. When the system is ready, the flooring is installed using one of the previously discussed methods.

Upon completion of all work, the ladders and gratings provided for by the project are connected to the system at the designated locations. In the area where the water intake is connected to the outlet pipe, it is desirable to install a siphon. It will prevent the penetration of odors from the sewer back into the room. Most often, ladders are equipped with built-in water seals.

Sewer pipes in the bath

On sale you can find gutters made of asbestos cement, plastic or cast iron. It is not recommended to use products made of wood and steel, because. they quickly break down under the influence of moisture. The minimum allowable gutter diameter is 5 cm. If the project provides for the presence of a toilet bowl or other sanitary equipment, its installation and connection. This completes the work on the organization of internal sewage. The external system is carried out in the manner described earlier, and may be a septic tank or a drainage well.

Sewerage construction in a private house: ventilation scheme in the bath

Air exchange in the bath can be organized in various ways. Each of them has its own characteristics and advantages. Having studied the specifics of each method, you can choose the best option for a bath.

The first method involves creating a hole designed for fresh air supply. It should be placed behind the stove-heater at a height of 0.5 m from the floor level. The exhaust air will be discharged through the opening on the opposite side. It must be placed at a height of 0.3 m from the floor. To increase the movement of air flow at the outlet, you need to install an exhaust fan. All openings are closed with gratings.

sewerage scheme for a toilet in a bath with a septic tank and ventilation

The second method involves placing both holes in the same plane. In this case, the work will affect the wall opposite to the one where the furnace is located. The inlet duct is placed at a height of 0.3 m from the floor level, at a similar distance from the ceiling, an exhaust hole must be made and a fan installed in it. Channels are closed with gratings.

The third method is suitable for flooring where the boards are laid with gaps to drain liquid. The inlet is made at a height of 0.3 m from the floor on the wall behind the stove. In this case, installation of an outlet duct is not required, since the exhaust air will exit through gaps between boards.

Stages of work

In a private house, the installation of sewerage should begin with the preparation of graphic diagrams of internal and external systems. If you plan to do the work yourself, then first of all you need to determine the length of the pipeline and the angle of its slope, then calculate the required number of adapters, connecting elements and seals

At this stage, it is important to know how the sewer will function and whether additional installation of pumping equipment or laying auxiliary channels

Internal plumbing work is carried out as follows:

• first, risers are installed, and their ends lead to the basement or to the roof;
• the next step is to bring the toilet to the risers;
• then horizontal wiring is prepared and connected to the system;
• upon completion, siphons are attached to the plumbing.

Then it is necessary to deal with the organization of the outer part of the sewer, but it can be carried out before the internal installations. In the event that sewer pipes are laid through the foundation of a building, their laying passes through a metal sleeve. This will help prevent damage to the sewer elements when the house shrinks.

Features of wiring in a multi-storey building

The number of risers due to the presence of the 2nd or 3rd floors does not increase, but the connection scheme becomes more complicated, since taps are present on all floors. For multi-storey buildings, there is a “code” set out in the SNiP documents.

According to the rules, functionally identical rooms should be located one above the other. This mainly applies to bathrooms, as the kitchen usually alone in a private house

The length of the risers increases and the presence of a fan pipe becomes mandatory. It is displayed above the roof by about 1.2-1.5 m in height. Instead of a fan pipe, a vacuum valve is sometimes used.

The protection of the riser in the ceilings is carried out using compensators necessary to suppress linear expansion. The remaining principles of installation, as well as the connection of taps, are preserved.

In one-story cottages and country houses, the basement is usually used as a cellar or storage room.In multi-storey buildings in the basement, garages, swimming pools, guest rooms are often arranged.

For basements and basements equipped with toilets, there are rules. If the toilet is below the level of the treatment plant, a fecal pump will be required to move the waste mass.

The pumping system is more expensive than gravity and is volatile, which has its drawbacks, especially with frequent power outages.

General design principles

Ideally, the drainage system should be laid down at the design stage of the building. But the arrangement of a bathroom that can provide an urban level of comfort can be completely organized in an old building.

Great if it is possible to connect communications to a centralized village or city highway. In the absence of such, the problem will have to be solved by creating an autonomous sewer.

The main stages of work in both options when laying communications inside the building will be identical; the difference is only in the organization of wastewater disposal outside the building

1. Indoor system. Its constituent components are water intakes and pipelines. If this is a two- or three-story house, then the system includes a vertical riser with horizontally laid pipes connected to it by means of fittings, which are connected to plumbing fixtures.
2. outdoor system. It is represented by a pipeline laid horizontally under a certain slope. It receives effluents from house pipes and diverts them to an autonomous treatment plant or to a centralized main.

When arranging sewerage in a house under construction, the installation of bathrooms and kitchens should be designed in one part of the building, placing them closer to the wall where the sewerage goes outside.

When designing wastewater disposal in a two-story building, to simplify installation and reduce the number of risers, place bathrooms on top of each other (+)

If it is planned to place several bathrooms in the house by installing a complex sewer system, a powerful sewer pump will need to be used to ensure uninterrupted operation. The installation of this unit will be relevant even if the site does not have any slope.

The main points to consider when planning an external sewage system:

1. Site landscape. To ensure unhindered flow of waste fluid, a cesspool or septic tank should be located at the lowest point of the site.
2. Soil type and groundwater level. The choice of the type of treatment structure and the depth of the external pipeline depends on this parameter.
3. The area and location of the site. It is necessary to provide the possibility of access for carrying out repair activities and the entrance of sewage equipment.

When designing internal sewerage, it should be borne in mind that horizontal pipes from appliances to the riser must run at a slope.

According to the standards, pipes D 50 mm are tilted 3 cm per linear meter; for pipes D 100-110 mm withstand an angle of inclination of 2 cm per linear meter

On average, the length of the pipeline from the drain to the vertical riser is about 3 m. According to the norms, the farthest plumbing fixture can be 5 m away from the riser. Distance of the connection point from the toilet to the riser - 1m.

With the construction of internal sewage can be handled with your own hands:

Construction stages

If we break down the construction of the sewage system into stages, we get the following list:

• Digging a pit for the installation of a septic tank or storage tank;
• Digging a trench for an outdoor pipeline;
• Installation of internal piping system;
• Installation and insulation (if necessary) of the external pipeline;
• Installation or construction of a septic tank;
• Connection of all elements of the system.

As a rule, sewerage in a private house begins when the walls and interior partitions are already fully prepared, and the roof is also built.

In most cases, laying sewer pipes they are made in the thickness of the subfloor, so in the cement pour it will be necessary to make trenches for their laying with the help of a grinder.

These trenches lead to a hole in the foundation, which was specially left for the outlet of the sewer pipe.

Then installation begins, starting from the lowest point, and make sure that the sockets of the pipes are directed in the direction opposite to the movement of drains.

For sealing joints using rubber gaskets

It is extremely important to ensure that the pipes go under the designed slope, otherwise, there will be problems with the transportation of wastewater.

The release of sewage (during construction) in the middle lane is organized, as a rule, at a depth of about 0.5 meters. Do not be afraid that in winter the soil freezes to a great depth.

The fact is that in a properly planned pipeline, effluents do not linger, but are immediately transported to their destination.

In addition, as a rule, the temperature of the sewage is at least room temperature or even higher, so this arrangement of the outlet does not threaten the freezing of the system.

The most difficult cases in the construction of local sewerage should be recognized as those when the site has a high location of groundwater and / or clay soil.

In the first case, it is absolutely impossible to build a traditional cesspool and septic tank, as they will overflow with water coming from the ground.

In the presence of clay soil, difficulties arise with the construction of filtration wells or filtration fields.

In the presence of such complex devices, it is worth purchasing ready-made wastewater treatment plants that are sealed, equipped with stiffeners and therefore capable of withstanding heavy loads of durable plastic housings.

Thus, if it is planned to build or restore a private house, the sewerage must be planned first. Indeed, without the effective operation of this system, it is impossible to provide a decent level of living comfort.

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Types of sewerage systems

There are several types of waste collection systems: central, accumulative, draining, filtration.

Central. The sewer pipe of the house is connected to the public sewer network, through which organic waste is collected in the city sewer.

Further, the drains are filtered, passing through several stages of purification, and already safe water enters the local reservoir. The homeowner pays a monthly fee for the use.

depending from the distance of the central pipeline to the house, a decision is made on the advisability of using an autonomous or central sewerage system

Cumulative system - a modern prototype of a cesspool. The main difference is the complete tightness of the waste collection point. It can be: concrete, brick, metal, plastic. To do this, a ditch is dug for a container on a piece of land remote from the residential building.

The principle of operation of the storage system is reduced to the discharge of organic compounds into a sealed container. When it is filled, the contents are pumped out by a sewage machine.

This scheme for installing an individual sewerage system in a private house has gained wide popularity due to its low cost.

The simplest installation scheme is a septic tank with a drainage well. It represents a kind of golden mean between construction costs and the frequency of cleaning (+)

A draining septic tank is a waste collection process similar to a storage tank. The only difference is the absence of the bottom of the container. This allows the settled water to go into the ground through the drainage pad. The drainage well is made of concrete or red brick.

Filtration units are mounted in areas with high water consumption. The whole system has from 1 to 4 tanks located underground. The first three tanks are used to collect and sequentially clean organic matter. The last container performs the final cleaning.

In fact, the filtration plant combines elements of the three previous types of sewage. Depending on the manufacturer, the elements of the installation are equipped with different cleaning systems to take into account local conditions.

Filtration septic Tank.Such an installation occupies a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site. A high percentage of cleaning will not require the call of vacuum trucks in the next 10 years (+)

If you are building a country house and are puzzling over how to equip the sewer, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the installation steps for the most efficient and affordable system - a septic tank with a drainage well.