How to properly drain water from a well using a valve

Principle of operation and device

The principle of operation of the drain device is as follows:

• Turning off the pumping equipment leads to a drop in pressure in the pipeline. When the mark reaches 0.6-0.7 bar, the drain valve is activated and naturally drains the remaining fluid from the pipeline back into the well.
• After starting the pumping equipment, the pressure in the system rises to 1.5 bar, the valve closes.

This principle of operation makes it possible to effectively prevent unwanted stagnation of the water column in the pipeline system.

Drain valve design

The automatic device is a small device in a brass case, the inner cavity is equipped with a plastic valve. When the pressure in the line drops, the drain hole of the valve opens. The body is usually made of stainless steel. Main structural elements:

• Composite body type, the parts of which are connected by threads.
• Locking mechanism consisting of two movable spool plates mounted on a special stem and sealing gasket.
• Plastic valve installed at the outlet of the throughput connector.

When buying a device, you should not give preference to the most budgetary ones, since, as a rule, low-quality materials with a short service life are used in the manufacture.

How to conduct hot water

If you have a hot water main, then there should be no problems with hot water in the bath in winter. Of course, if the highway is functioning normally.

Everyone else will have to take care of themselves. At worst, there is a stove in the bathhouse, the heat of which in large quantities simply “flies into the chimney” in the literal sense - the gases in the chimney do not have time to give off heat and leave too hot.

But you can also put a boiler so as not to wait until the stove heats the water in the tank. However, first things first.

How to run plumbing to the bath so that it does not freeze

Well, in itself, the method and the necessary set of elements for wiring hot water does not differ from those for cold water.

The difference will be only in the pipes - after all, pipes for hot water should not be deformed from high temperature, so polyethylene ones are not suitable. Take the ones labeled for hot water.

Polypropylene pipe for hot water supply.Photo Petrovich.

But since we are talking about a bath, that is, a building with periodic use, then with the taps closed, of course, the water in the system will cool, and in frost it will turn into ice and break the pipes.

Therefore, the owner must decide how exactly he is going to lead water to the bath and ensure that the water is completely drained from the bath in winter.

There are two options: above and below the ground. In both cases, the water is blocked in the house or at the connection point with the main, and what remains in the system must be drained.

IMPORTANT! The slope angle of the pipeline towards the drain should be 0.02-0.05 degrees.

In order not to repeat ourselves, we will not describe the drain device in detail here (it is common to all water supply systems), instead we suggest going down to the corresponding heading in this article.

Boiler or water heater in a bath without heating

We have already said that an independent boiler or water heater can be an alternative to the main hot water supply. Moreover, in this case, you don’t even have to wait until the stove heats the water, because gas or electricity does it for it in a separate installation.

However, any water heaters are now called boilers. In fact, the choice is made between three options:

• wood-burning water heater of a flowing or storage type;
• gas water heater of a flowing or storage type;
• an electric water heater of a flowing or storage type.

As you can see, the difference is in what kind of fuel will be used, and whether it will be a storage tank, or water will only flow through it.

In a large bath, a boiler in winter is a necessary thing.However, we can immediately say that at this time of the year flow-through boilers may simply not be up to the task. Therefore, in a bathhouse in winter without heating, it is better to use a water heater of a storage type.

ADVICE! Pay attention to the instructions for the water heater - there is quite often a warning that the unit is not intended for operation at temperatures below 5 degrees Celsius. Therefore, it can be launched in frosts only by warming up the bath with a stove.

Since we are talking about rooms with periodic use, it is important to know how to protect equipment from low temperatures during the cold season.

Since we are talking about rooms with periodic use, it is important to know how to protect equipment from the effects of low temperatures during the cold season. So, you can purchase a water heater with the function of constant water heating, but this is convenient for those who often use the bath in the winter.

Because if during the absence the air temperature in the bath falls below plus 5 degrees, then the heating will take place under conditions for which the manufacturer is not responsible

So, you can purchase a water heater with the function of constant water heating, but this is convenient for those who often use the bath in the winter. Because if during the period of absence the air temperature in the bath falls below plus 5 degrees, then the heating will take place under conditions for which the manufacturer is not responsible.

Draining water before leaving the site is the rule for all elements of the water supply system in unheated premises in winter. It also applies to the boiler. For greater convenience, you can drain the drain from it directly into the sewer.

A dry heating element in a boiler is better than a wet one - the dry one is not affected by the fact that you periodically drain the liquid from the tank, and the wet one deteriorates from this, its corrosion protection works only if the anode is in the water.

Boiler of indirect heating Sunsystem. Photo by Leroy Merlin

Here is such a set of facts, but, as usual, what is better turns out to be more expensive.

Types of wells for a private water supply

An undrinkable perch is quite suitable for watering the garden, cleaning and similar needs. It is easier and cheaper to get it by arranging a well-needle, also called the Abyssinian well. It is a column of thick-walled pipes VGP Ø from 25 to 40 mm.

Abyssinian well - the easiest and cheapest way to get water for temporary supply of a summer cottage

This is the cheapest and easiest way to get water for temporary water supply. For summer residents who need exclusively technical water and only in the summer.

• The needle well, otherwise the Abyssinian well, is the easiest and cheapest way to create a water source for a private house.
• You can drill an Abyssinian well in one day. The only drawback is the average depth of 10-12 m, which rarely allows the use of water for drinking purposes.
• An Abyssinian well can be arranged within the house by placing pumping equipment in the basement or utility room.
• The needle well is great for extracting water for watering a garden with a vegetable garden and caring for a suburban area.
• Sand wells can supply water for both technical and drinking purposes. It all depends on the specific hydrogeological situation in the suburban area.
• If the water carrier covers the layer of water-resistant soils from above, then the water may well turn out to be a drinking discharge.

The soils of the aquiclude, which prevent the penetration of water, prevent the penetration of domestic wastewater. If the water-containing sand does not have natural protection in the form of loam or solid sandy loam, the drinking purpose will most likely have to be forgotten.

The walls of the well are strengthened with a string of steel casing pipes connected to each other by couplings or a welded seam. Recently, polymer casing has been actively used, which is in demand by private traders because of its affordable price and corrosion resistance.

The design of the sand well provides for the installation of a filter that excludes the penetration of gravel and large sand suspension into the wellbore.

The construction of a sand well will cost much more than an Abyssinian well, but cheaper than drilling a working in rocky soils

The working part of the well filter should protrude beyond the aquifer from above and below by at least 50 cm. its length must be equal to the sum of the thickness of the aquifer and at least 1 m of margin.

The filter diameter must be 50 mm smaller than the casing diameter so that it can be freely loaded and removed from the hole for cleaning or repair.

Wells, the trunk of which is buried in rocky limestone, can do without a filter and partially without casing. These are the deepest water intake workings, extracting water from cracks in the bedrock.

They serve longer than analogues buried in the sand. They are not characterized by the process of siltation, because. in the thickness of the water-containing soils there is no clay suspension and fine grains of sand.

The risk of drilling an artesian well is that the fracture zone with underground water may not be detected.

At a depth of more than 100 m, it is permissible to use asbestos-cement pipes or drill a well without casing at all, if there is no need to strengthen the rocky walls of the hydraulic structure.

If an artesian well has passed more than 10 m of fractured rock containing groundwater, then a filter is installed. Its working part is obliged to block the entire thickness supplying water.

The scheme of the water supply system of an autonomous house with one filter is typical for artesian wells that do not require multi-stage water purification

How to drain the heating riser

1. Close the valves on the supply pipe (1) and the return pipe (2).

2. Open the drain cocks (3) and drain the coolant.

In the second figure - also a system with a bottom feed. Only the supply and return risers go in different rooms. Therefore taps 1 and 2 can be removed from each other. And the procedure for draining the coolant is the same.

In the third figure - a system with an upper coolant supply. The supply line is located in the attic or under the ceiling of the upper floor.

The procedure for draining the heating riser:

• close valve 1 in the attic;
• find valve 2 in the basement and close it too;
• remove plug 3 and drain the coolant.

The same systems are made in high-rise buildings.

Produce often becomes a necessary measure associated with an emergency situation in the autonomous heating of the house or the departure of the owners for a long time in the winter. The question of how to do it was considered in another article.

If you have a heating system with natural circulation (Fig. 1), you must immediately take care that the boiler stops working.Only then can you make draining water from the heating system. The discharge is made through a tap (valve), which must be located at the lowest point of the return line, usually next to the boiler. It is desirable to have a hose for such work. One end of the hose must be put on a tap, and the other end should be stretched to the nearest place with earth, for example, a front garden, a vegetable garden, in extreme cases, drain into the sewer. After that, open the tap and wait until the hose stops flowing. It often happens that not everything has flowed out of the system, make sure that after removing the hose, you can remove the remaining water.

In the same way, it is possible to discharge water from forced circulation heating, which includes a pump that is not included in the boiler design. The reset procedure is the same.

Many modern systems are equipped with boilers, which include a circulation pump (Fig. 2). The installation method of the heating system differs from the above, therefore, the supply and return pipes can be located above the plinth or in the floor structure, like the "warm floor" system.

1. First, turn off the boiler.

2. Attach the hose to the tap from which water is drained from the heating system. It is advisable to put it on the return line (the right pipe coming from the boiler) in order to quickly reset. If they are not under the boiler, find where they are. The other end of the hose can be directed to the sewer (an outlet specially made for draining) or simply to a bucket.

3. Open the faucet, wait until the water stops flowing (pressure drops) and turn off the faucet.

4. Now you need to organize air access to the system. To do this, open the highest located Mayevsky crane, usually installed on a heated towel rail (if any).In the absence of it, on any radiator (for a two-story house, On the second floor).

5. Repeat the procedure for draining water with a hose.

6. Now it is already possible to open all the remaining closed Mayevsky taps and again drain the water from the heating system.

7. That's not all, now remove the hose from the return line and put it on the supply tap.

8. And reset again. The lower the hose is located along the entire length relative to the taps, the more water will drain from the heating.

Please note that water cannot be removed from the “warm floor” system in this way; a compressor or other equipment must be used here.

Draining water from the heating system is not a quick procedure and requires some attention.

Discharge via safety check valve

This method is recommended to be used by all well-known manufacturers of water heating tanks - Ariston, Thermex, Gorenje, Electrolux and so on. The household appliance is connected to the water supply networks according to the diagram (presented above) from the instruction manual:

• a safety group for boilers is installed on the inlet pipe;
• a shut-off valve is placed in front of the group;
• fittings are not provided on the outlet pipe or a ball valve is mounted.

Sometimes there are valves without a lever - you can’t drain through such water

How to drain water through the valve:

1. We block the water main at the entrance to the apartment, turn off the heater from the mains.
2. We release 1-2 liters through the nearest mixer, opening the DHW valve to the end. We leave the plumbing fixture in the open position so that air can fill the void in the tank.
3. We substitute the bucket under the “nose” of the valve, turn the lever and slowly empty the tank.

Before emptying, the heating device does not need to be dismantled and wait until the water has cooled down. Disadvantages of the method:

• due to the small flow area of ​​the spout (5 ... 8 mm), the water runs off too slowly, the boiler of 80-100 liters will be emptied in about 2 hours;
• the valve is often clogged, poorly passes liquid;
• sometimes the security group turns sour, the drain does not work at all.

The method is suitable for small water heaters of 25-50 liters, provided that the valve valve is functioning normally. It will take too long to release large volumes.

On the left in the photo - blockage of the poppet valve, on the right - measurement of the drain passage (5 mm)

How to make sure that the water does not freeze: draining the bath

In general, under the drain of water from the bath, one can understand the organization of the drainage of water from the steam room and the soap room, and the release of the system from the liquid before leaving in the cold season.

But if the usual drain is done at the construction stage, and we are talking about an already built bathhouse and preparing it for the period when it will not be used, then we should only talk about how to prepare all elements of the water supply and sewerage system for the upcoming frosts.

A drain valve and a pit under it are made at the lowest point of the plumbing system. At the same time, the pipes that lead to it must have a slope of several hundredths of a degree - we have already talked about this above.

However, inside the bath, with any organization of water supply, there is usually a certain number of taps. The basic rule is this: to drain the water, you must open all the taps. If this is a tap in the mixer, then it is set exactly in the center (if you have a flag mixer).

In cases with a pump, the situation becomes more complicated, perhaps a whole instruction is needed, which must either be kept in a conspicuous place or known by heart. An example of such instructions for a bath with a boiler and a pump in the well can be seen in the following video:

Depending on what exactly is installed in your bath, of course, adjustments are made, but the principles are as follows:

• turn off the water supply from the main or from the pump (in a well or well), turn off the power to all automation, unless otherwise provided;
• we open all drain and other taps, drain the accumulator (if any) and flush the toilet;
• unscrew the filter and drain the water from it;
• we drain water from the water heater;
• in a well or caisson, open a tap to drain the remaining water in the system.

IMPORTANT! The taps remain open until the next visit.

Well, you should also take care of the insulation of the well or caisson - with foam plastic or something like that.

Water seal

Water locks in the bath are just used in the steam room and washing on the floor, if the drain occurs into the sewer or septic tank, and not directly under the bath.

The purpose of water traps is the same as siphons in a sink or toilet bowl - locking sewer odors with a water barrier.

Craftsmen have long thought of putting a children's ball on the drain hole under the floor, where the water goes. While there is water, she lifts the ball, and then it simply lies on the pipe, closing it completely.

But the modern design of water seals is something like a cup, in the center of which there is a protruding drain pipe, and an inverted cup with legs is put on top, providing unhindered drainage, but at the same time keeping a small amount of water in the path of sewer gases.

Here is a water seal in winter can freeze.It would be logical to drain it, but in this case, unpleasant odors will break out. In this case, it is better to purchase water seals that are designed for the situation of liquid drying out and have petal (most often) odor blockers. You will find them by asking for something like a "dry water seal" on sale.

Dry seal for Viega drain. Petrovich Photos

ATTENTION! Before leaving, be sure to remove all the water from the water seal with a rag and then wipe it dry.

Siphons in sinks and in the toilet, as already mentioned, are also very desirable to be completely free of water by placing the same balloons inflated enough to fit into the hole (or rags) to lock in odors.

CONCLUSION! Water locks in the bath in winter are best dried. For those who do not have severe frosts, pour a pack of table salt or pour antifreeze or ethylene glycol concentrate (40% ethylene glycol solution is used in cars).

Winter plumbing in the country

November 5, 2015

Winter plumbing is necessary in the country if you are going to be on it regularly or live.

You can use it not only in winter, it will be relevant at any time of the year.

It is also noteworthy that such a device in the country will not cease to function, even if you do not visit it.

If every time you have to drain the water in the country from the pipes so that they do not freeze, winter plumbing is the best solution.

The main devices are:

• pipes;
• surface or submersible pump;
• drain valve;
• pressure switch;
• hydraulic accumulator;
• water heating cable.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with How to grow a chestnut from a nut at home

Pipes for winter water supply

It is better to choose polypropylene pipes, because they have a number of advantages:

• do not rust;
• durable (up to 50 years);
• low thermal conductivity;
• low weight;
• easy to install;
• acoustically isolated.

Installation is carried out by thermal welding, which ensures the integrity and safety of the entire system.

The best option would be to use a submersible pump. It supplies water well to the system and is economical.

It is independently necessary to choose a brand, which depends on the depth of the water source and type.

The engine is naturally cooled automatically and does not create any noise during operation.

Drain valve for winter plumbing

The valve is installed after the pump, and the water can be drained into a source or into a well.

The device is necessary to maintain the pressure in the water supply, in a certain range.

When the maximum pressure is reached, the relay will turn off the pump. If the pressure drops to a minimum, the relay will close the contacts and the pump will resume operation.

This device will protect the water supply from water hammer and will stabilize the pressure.

It is better to use a hydroaccumulation tank with a membrane.

Winter water heater

In practice, storage water heaters are best suited for this process.

The power and volume of the boiler must be selected based on your water consumption. Usually, for a family of 5 people, 100 liters are enough, with a capacity of 2.5 kW.

There are only three options here:

• from a well;
• when connected to the central highway;
• from the well.

The most convenient and easiest way is winter water supply from a well. It has a number of advantages over the above:

• with inadequate care, aquifers rarely silt;
• no need for a powerful pump;
• during conservation, water can be drained directly into the well.

To drill a well a decent amount of money is needed, and its maintenance is even more expensive, respectively, winter plumbing from a well is a profitable way to get hot water.

winter plumbing project

It is almost impossible to create the right water supply without a project and schemes.

It is important to consider when creating a project for the route and the connection to the plumbing. If you want to make it yourself, then you need to stock up on the basic tools:

If you want to make it yourself, then you need to stock up on the basic tools:

• soldering iron (ironing iron) for pipes;
• gas wrench No. 2 (for assembly using fittings);
• grinder or saw for metal;
• cutter (hacksaw);
• shovel and bayonet shovels;
• scrap.

Laying pipes for winter plumbing

Be sure to make a slope in the direction of the well.

Next, we level the trench and pour at least 15 cm of sand on the bottom to create a pillow.

We lay the polypropylene pipe in the trench and attach it to the pump.

We seal the pipe coming out of the well with cement mortar with liquid glass. So your well will not be flooded with groundwater.

Fill with sand or soil and tamp.

Now you will always have warm water!

How to freeze an Abyssinian well for the winter

A feature of such structures is that the water in them lies below the freezing level and nothing threatens them.

But for the owner of the site, it is important to prepare the source and the system serving it for the winter. To do this, drain the water from the system and close the mouth from the cold.

The algorithm of actions is simple:

1. It is necessary to remove the pump, drain the water from the hose, turn it off and hide it for the winter, while the storage place must be dry and warm.
2. It is necessary to drain the water from the pipes and, if necessary, blow them with air.
3. Screw the head onto the previously prepared thread. This is done in order to protect the neck of the well from the troubles that an aggressive external environment threatens - dust, snow, ice, wind, and various pollution. The part itself must be tightly closed with a plastic cap or at least film material.

Well for the winter it is advised to disinfect using dry bleach (35-40 g of the substance per 10-12 liters of water - this amount should be enough for 1 m of the well). Chlorine is needed to disinfect water and destroy pathogenic microbes. In the spring, this fluid must be pumped out before the well can be put into operation.

Basic parameters for pump selection

So, about the height to which you need to raise water, we already wrote

What else should you pay attention to when choosing? We need to know exactly the distance of the well from the house, and the volume of pumped liquid, which will depend on the total volume of the water supply network and the maximum possible water consumption at any given moment. A banal example: we open the tap closest to the entry point to the building - we get good pressure, we open the second one - the pressure drops, and at the remote point the water flow will be the smallest. The calculations here, in principle, are not complicated, you can do them yourself using an online calculator, or simply by studying the instructions from the manufacturer

The calculations here, in principle, are not complicated, you can do them yourself using an online calculator, or simply by studying the instructions from the manufacturer.

What determines the pressure in the system? From the power of the pump and the volume of the accumulator - the larger it is, the more stable the average pressure in the water supply system. The fact is that when turned on, the pump does not work constantly, since it needs cooling, and when the operating pressure is reached, it should not continue to increase it. The system is designed in such a way that it pumps water into the accumulator, in which a check valve is installed that prevents water from flowing back when the pump is turned off. When the pressure in the tank reaches the set threshold, the pump stops. If at the same time the water intake continues, it will gradually fall, reaching the minimum mark, which is a signal to turn on the pump again.

That is, the smaller the accumulator, the more often the pump is forced to turn on and off, the more often the pressure will either rise or fall. This leads to accelerated wear of the engine starting equipment - in this mode, the pumps do not last long. Therefore, if you plan to use water from the well all the time, buy a tank with a larger capacity for the pumping station.

When arranging a well, a casing pipe is installed in it, through which water rises up. This pipe can be of different diameters, that is, it may have a different throughput. According to the cross section of the casing, you can also choose the right equipment for your home.

All the necessary information will be in the instructions for the purchased pump. You can also get recommendations from specialists who drill your well. They will know exactly the optimal operating parameters.It will not be superfluous to also make some reserve in terms of the power of the unit, so that the pressure in the system rises faster to a comfortable threshold, otherwise the water will constantly flow sluggishly from the tap.

Well conservation with an installed adapter

An adapter is a device that is used to ensure a tight connection between a well and water pipes. If a similar device is installed, then this type of well is also used in the cold season. But in this case, the branches that lead to the house must be laid in a trench, at a depth of at least 1.6 m. At the same time, the hydraulic tank of such a system and the automation unit are installed indoors.

The algorithm is simple. It is necessary to disconnect the pump from electricity and open any of the taps installed in the house. An automatic relief valve is installed in the well in such cases. Under conditions when the pressure indicator drops to 0.5 bar, it should open and water will be drained from the system.

What type of plumbing to choose?

Depending on how often and for how long you plan to consume water, choose the best option from the 2 existing ones:

1. Summer plumbing. Such a system involves operation in the warm season. It can be both stationary and collapsible.
2. Winter plumbing. Choose this water supply option if you need water all year round. That is, if you are planning even short visits to the dacha in winter, give preference to this particular method of organizing water supply.

General characteristics and differences between winter and summer water supply

Regardless of which particular water supply scheme in the country you have determined as rational for your site, the arrangement of such elements will definitely be required:

• a conservation system that ensures timely draining of water, does not allow it to stagnate and rot inside the system and freeze;
• water source;
• insulation, the principle of which is different in summer and winter plumbing.

A simple way to install a summer water supply

The whole process of laying a summer water pipeline will not take much time. First of all, decide on its location by choosing from the following options:

1. Ground, in which the line is drawn directly on the surface of the soil. You will appreciate the advantages of this solution during installation and dismantling, as they are carried out very quickly and easily. But at the same time, there is always the possibility of a system breakdown due to mechanical direct impact.
2. Buried, which differs in the location of the pipeline itself at a shallow depth in the ground, but all the valves for regulating the water supply remain on the surface. This option is more acceptable due to its reliability. Free access to all elements remains.

Technology

To assemble such a system, follow these steps:

1. Design in advance the laying line - the water supply scheme in the country, so that the system does not interfere and at the same time is located with a slight slope.
2. Install the pumping system.
3. Connect it to a water source.
4. Place hoses or plastic pipes along the entire fluid supply line to the desired object.
5. Connect them with pipes and fittings.
6. At a certain distance along the entire length of the line, cut in shut-off valves in order to be able to regulate the intensity and supply area.