Common causes of air conditioner noise and how to fix them yourself

Noise regulation

Manufacturers of climate control equipment adhere to generally accepted standards for the noise emitted by any household appliances they have released. For split systems for an external unit, this is 38-54 dB. The indoor unit is much quieter: its noise pollution is only 19-28 dB. For comparison, in a reading room or office, noise is 30-40 dB, on a city street and inside a car - up to 70 dB, near a bump stop or a gas mower - up to 90 dB.

The requirements for the noise level of the outdoor unit of split air conditioners are not very high.Turning on the air conditioner, the owner of the room closes the windows, and the noise of the external unit will not bother him: the quality of the "brand" device is excellent. However, neighbors, whose windows are open all the time in summer, may complain about increased noise.

Freon circuit violation

When working to heat a room using an air conditioner, the evaporator and condenser change their purpose. Freon injected into the system enters the evaporator in a liquid state. Here it condenses and heats up strongly, up to a temperature of 60-80 degrees. The compressor drives warm air and warms the room. This is the reverse process of cooling, in which the formation of liquid from gas occurs directly in the condenser unit.

From the evaporator, liquid freon enters the outdoor unit, and this liquid can “gurgle”. The design in which the processes of evaporation and further condensation of freon take place is completely isolated. If the air conditioner is in working condition, this phenomenon is basically impossible.

Whistles in geysers when turning on hot water and after turning it off

Rattles new equipment? Perhaps the reason is not in the boiler, but in an installation error. To find out, inspect all connections, correct connection.

The cost of troubleshooting when the gas burner does not go out depends on the degree of breakdown, the brand of equipment and the period of operation, it is determined during a visual, detailed inspection, but the master will preliminarily announce the approximate cost by phone. If you could not determine the problem yourself, but the clicking does not stop, contact the competent craftsmen immediately.

Set the water control knob to the lowest setting.Due to membrane wear, there may not be enough water pressure to turn on the column.

A normally working wick will have a 90% blue flame and may include some red flecks, and its tip may be yellow.

A normally working geyser produces a rustle or a characteristic whistle that occurs during the ignition process.

If the pilot flame is predominantly yellow or orange, the wick is not working properly, the thermocouple will not heat up enough, causing the burner to go out.

If after turning off the water you hear a click - a piezo discharge, this may mean that there are problems with the frog water regulator. The element responsible for ignition remains in the active position even after switching off. In this case, replacement of the part is recommended.

If there is no draft, clean the chimney. During operation, it becomes clogged with soot and debris.

Another problem is the gradual extinction (reduction) of the burner flame after a short operation of the column. This is clearly due to the destruction of the water block membrane.

If the product whistles and squeaks, you need to find out where the sound comes from. What to do:

• Shut off the gas supply.
• Open the mixer in the "hot" position.
• Did the whistle get louder? So, the problems lie in the water path. The main reason is the deposition of scale on the parts of the heat exchanger or on pipes, blockage. It is necessary to clean all the elements in order to resume the performance of the equipment and eliminate the cause of the whistle. Reverse flow of water can clean the pipes from clogging.

To solve the problem, seal all gaps with self-adhesive heat-resistant tape. An example of sealing in the photo below shows a turbocharged geyser.

This device is shaped like a box. It is made of metal. It has two pipes leading to it. One supplies gas, the second - water.

When starting hot water or during water heating, the machine may whistle. Vibration may be felt when drawing water. This is a sign of the movement of water through the pipes. If the equipment begins to whistle and make more noise, To reduce noise levels.

Scheme for connecting a geyser to utilities: 1 - gas pipe; 2 - gas valve; 3 - water valve; 4 - pipe with cold water; 5 - pipe with hot water; 6 — column controls; 7 - column body; 8 - chimney pipe.

Repair with disassembly of the column, as well as replacement of parts: water unit, ignition unit, membrane, stem repair, etc.

There may be several reasons for such a problem, and in order to understand them, you should check each of the nodes in turn that can cause the column to turn off.

Seals in such windows interfere with the natural ventilation of the room. In this case, to eliminate noise, you just need to control the air flow.

The column or flow heater, as it is called, is a metal box (casing). Two pipes for supplying water and gas are brought to it. The main structural elements are:

• Radiator (water flows through it).
• The main and pilot burners (serve to heat the liquid in the radiator).

Backpressure should be done only after turning off the gas and water. It is also required to unscrew the eyeliner at the inlet.

Brake noise: trifle or dangerous?

“Screeching brakes” is one of the most common driver complaints about car brakes.Brake noises can be annoying, but not indicative of any malfunction, but they can also warn us of a possible danger. It is better to be careful and determine the cause of the noise in the brake system by showing the car to a mechanic.

We'll cover three of the most common brake noises that thousands of motorists experience every day, and shed light on the cause of their occurrence, as well as give tips on how to get rid of them. Some of the methods for eliminating noise are extraordinary, and you will never find them in a car service manual and perhaps even in car repair books.

Let's take a look at three of the most common problems that cause brake noise.

Unsatisfactory operation and wear of the compressor

Like any motor, the compressor (freon supercharger in the cooler) includes a rotor and a stator. It works under constant load - it creates a pressure of liquefied gases of 10 or more atmospheres. Its rotor spins noticeably slower than idle. The situation in the compressor worsens with the speed of falling dominoes.

1. A dusty motor generates excess heat much worse than a clean one, and dust and dirt trap heat.
2. Even a short time interval of 5-20 minutes, during which the system will lower the temperature in the room, for example, to 22 degrees, is prohibitive for the compressor.
3. Constant overheating dries the varnish of the enamel wire, from which the winding is made. This varnish cracks, interturn short circuits appear. Winding resistance decreases.
4. Electricity consumption increases - especially the starting current increases when turned on.
5. The motor burns out, knocking out the fuse on the electrical panel.

To reduce the accumulation of heat from the compressor in itself, it is regularly cleaned from dust and dirt. The ideal option is to disassemble it, clean and lubricate. If the oil in it has worked out, then it will work regularly for another 10-15 years. Best of all, a service center for the repair of refrigerators and air conditioners will cope with the restoration of the motor. Masters pour a special reagent into the motor, which determines by the changed color of the oil how damaged the enamel on the winding enamel wire is.

Noises from the drainage system

The phenomenon occurs if the drainage pipes are not led out into the street, but into the sewer system without a siphon. In this case, gurgling occurs when the split system is turned off. Sound can be transmitted directly from a sewer system or a water seal.

Incorrect placement of drain pipes to drain condensate both outside and into the sewer system is a possible cause of unpleasant sound, but is not often common. This is due to the fact that condensate can form only in warm weather when the air conditioner is working to cool the room. When heated, this is excluded. The main cause of noise in winter is the airing of the cooling system.

External atypical noise of a home air conditioner

The external structure of the system, which can be visually inspected (determine the presence of obvious breakdowns), literally makes an unpleasant noise, and this happens quite often. Unexpected inconvenience results from improper maintenance of the device, its incorrect operation and neglect of general safety precautions.

Common problems that cause annoying noise:

• breakdown of automatic systems;
• improper operation of the drainage tube;
• debris entering the air duct;
• low level of freon (refrigerant);
• the occurrence of air pockets.

A slight noise effect is also created during normal operation of the air conditioner (large load on the case). Basically, the "gurgling" of the cooler signals a malfunction. Before proceeding with the diagnosis of the device, you should inspect the external unit (clean the panels from debris, check the connection of all parts).

Where to complain if it was not possible to resolve everything peacefully

1. Management Company

Here it is worth clarifying whether the split system is agreed with other owners of the common property, which is the facade of the building.

1. Precinct

A written statement to the district police officer will entail a mandatory conversation and drawing up a protocol about the noisy air conditioner installed by the neighbors.

If the split system continues to violate the "law of silence", then administrative responsibility will come with the imposition of fines.

1. Rospotrebnadzor

The main purpose of contacting Rospotrebnadzor is to organize an examination and measure the noise level from a working split system. The examination is carried out for a fee. But it is she who will be a weighty argument in court. In case of recognition of your correctness, the court will oblige the culprit to reimburse this amount.

Noises from the drainage system

If extraneous sounds occur when the split system is turned off, this clearly indicates an incorrect installation of the drainage for condensate removal. The air conditioner gurgles in the strong wind that blows into the tubes. With an incorrect mounting angle, not all moisture is removed from the system, so bubbles appear under air pressure, and, as a result, a “gurgling” sound in the air conditioner.A water seal may also occur, which will interfere with the removal of liquid.

The phenomenon occurs if the drainage pipes are not led out into the street, but into the sewer system without a siphon. In this case, gurgling occurs when the split system is turned off. Sound can be transmitted directly from a sewer system or a water seal.

Incorrect placement of drain pipes to drain condensate both outside and into the sewer system is a possible cause of unpleasant sound, but is not often common. This is due to the fact that condensate can form only in warm weather when the air conditioner is working to cool the room. When heated, this is excluded. The main cause of noise in winter is the airing of the cooling system.

The main reasons for the appearance of water

A malfunctioning drainage system is the main reason for the appearance of water from the air conditioner. But there are others:

• Clogged filters. Water drips from the air conditioner directly into the apartment. The intensity of the leak depends on how hot the room is. If the filter elements are very dirty, the equipment may begin to suck air from the drain. Comprehensive filter cleaning is required.
• Blockage in the indoor unit (on the evaporator or fan). The evaporator contributes to the intake of heat from the air and is located in the indoor unit of the split system. The fan is an important element of air conditioners. Available in both indoor and outdoor units. In the indoor unit, the fan provides forced air circulation through the heat exchanger (another element of the indoor unit). If dirt accumulates on the evaporator or fan, this worsens the heat transfer of the device, a snow cover forms.As the cover melts, it turns into water, which forms outside the drainage system and flows outward from the indoor unit. Pollution leads to a deterioration in the performance of the air conditioner (the unit does not cool the room well). The situation will be corrected by a comprehensive cleaning.
• Indoor fan failure. If a fan failure causes a decrease in the speed of rotation of the blades, frost will form, which, after melting, flows out of the indoor unit. To fix the problem, either repair or replacement of the fan will be required.
• Lack of refrigerant. The refrigerant system may leak refrigerant (refrigerating fluid) or naturally evaporate. The problem is accompanied by the appearance of ice on the evaporator, which, when melted, will splash from the indoor unit of the air conditioner. If the device is equipped with a diagnostic system, an error message will appear on the screen: “lack of refrigerant”. Refueling the system with freon (special hydrocarbons used in refrigeration as a refrigerant) will help restore the evaporated refrigerant. In the event of a leak, the cooling system must first be sealed and then refilled.
• Clogging of the capillary system (in non-inverter equipment). The capillary tube is an important element of the refrigeration system. Its clogging is a common problem in this unit of air conditioning devices. Clogging of the tube leads to a deterioration in the circulation of freon. In this case, the evaporator is covered with snow, there is frost on the elements of the outdoor unit. The split system loses its ability to effectively cool the air (even if it works continuously). The situation will be corrected by purging the capillary tube with special equipment (under pressure).In case of severe clogging, hydraulic cleaning with solvents is used. In some cases, the tube has to be replaced with a new one.
• Faulty thermostatic valve (in inverter air conditioners). The expansion valve acts as a capillary tube, but unlike it, it has adjustments. Violation of the settings or breakage of the valve leads to a change in pressure inside the device and to the boiling of the refrigerant. The air conditioner stops cooling properly, the evaporator, a thin tube of the external unit are covered with snow and ice. The expansion valve needs to be repaired or replaced.
• Failure of the temperature sensor (in those models in which it is provided). If the sensor fails, the temperature of the cooling element drops. If the fall is excessive, the indoor unit of the air conditioner freezes and water starts to run out of it. In these cases, an urgent replacement of the sensor is required.
• Failure of the control board (control module). When the control unit fails, a leak is sometimes accompanied by program failures. The air conditioner stops working efficiently. The board needs to be repaired or replaced.

Ways to eliminate noise in ventilation

In order to understand how to eliminate noise in ventilation, you must first try to determine its source, and based on this, choose methods of dealing with it.

Accordingly, the main directions for eliminating noise in ventilation can be distinguished:

1. check the ventilation unit, lubricate or replace the bearing if necessary, tension or replace the belt (if any). Check and, if necessary, replace the inserts.Pull out the bolts connecting the structural elements of the ventilation unit and the frame on which it is installed.
2. check the integrity of the flexible connectors. If necessary, replace them, sometimes you can just rewind.
3. check gates and anemostats. Often it is enough to adjust the degree of their opening or closing.
4. check soundproofing. It must be fastened with special washers, but often it is fastened by wrapping it with cheap tape, which eventually leaves. Especially at the junctions of the air ducts. To eliminate this cause, it is enough to wind up problem areas.
5. check the integrity of the air ducts and their cleanliness inside. Sometimes it happens that foreign objects get into the duct system for various reasons. For example, construction debris or animals. By the way, very often birds, cats and small rodents (rats and mice) get into the air ducts; this happens mainly in winter, when it is cold outside, and there are no grilles and protective nets on the air intakes. Often, animals caught in the ventilation become not only the cause of extraneous noise in the air ducts, but also the cause of an unpleasant smell in the room, since they cannot always get out of the air ducts on their own and often die there, starting to decompose.

You also need to go through the junctions of the air ducts and stretch the connections. To determine such causes of noise and the condition of the air duct, video diagnostics (video inspection) of ventilation systems will help.

Unfortunately, it is not uncommon to eliminate the cause of noise in ventilation systems only by completely dismantling this system and assembling a new one, having previously developed a ventilation project.

Home air conditioner constantly gurgling

The drain pipe responsible for blowing air into the cooler is exposed to the environment around the clock. Stagnation of condensate can cause unpleasant gurgling sounds. The owner of the air conditioner should make sure that the drain pipe is in a natural position. The refrigerant is also checked, because in cases where freon is replaced by air, the air conditioner starts to make noise. Only an experienced craftsman can fix such a breakdown, and on one condition - high-quality materials will be used in the repair.

Insects, which often get inside the structure, can settle down in it and fully live inside individual parts. The buzzing of unwanted neighbors resembles the murmur of water, so it is quite easy to confuse two noises of different origin.

Bees can live in an air conditioner and make buzzing sounds

Problems with the outdoor unit heat exchanger

One of the most common malfunctions in this part of the design is freon leakage through the external unit. If R-22 was used for refueling, use a special leak detector to identify the problem. If there is an option with modern R-410-a products, the surface is simply “washed”. And then they look to see if foaming has happened, where it happened.

The leak is eliminated in two main ways:

Soldering.

Use a torch to heat the area where the leak has occurred. Then everything is soldered with special solder. The tubes are lightweight and thin, so handling requires accuracy.

Replacement.

Complete disassembly of the case begins after disconnecting the external unit from electricity. Cutting, soldering the old heat exchanger is mandatory.The new one is put in place of the old one, using nitrogen to connect. The module is assembled back by connecting the electrical connections. Tubes are also connected to the system, ensuring its tightness. Re-fill everything, check the overall performance.

Troubleshooting

In most cases, the owner of the equipment will be able to eliminate the cause of the appearance of a gurgling sound with his own hands. But in some situations, the help of specialists may be required. First of all, you need to independently try to find where the sound is heard from. It can be an indoor or outdoor unit, a main or a drainage system. Next, you should understand exactly when the gurgling is heard - during operation or in the off state, when the equipment is started for cooling or heating, during rain, snow, wind or frost, etc.

in the drain

If during installation the drain hose was installed correctly, with the recommended slope, then the moisture formed during operation should pour out. In the event that mistakes were made when placing the tube, for example, an incorrect angle of inclination was made or kinks were made, a situation may arise when the condensate does not drain, but stagnates in the hose. In this case, when the wind blows inside the tube, the moisture starts to move, which causes gurgling.

Similar sounds also appear if the drain is connected to the sewer. In this case, noise may occur in the drain pipes or in the water seal through which the connection is made. Further, the gurgling sound is transmitted through the hose to the room where people hear it. This happens even when the air conditioner is turned off.

Although the noises in this case are not a malfunction of the instrument, they can disturb users and must therefore be eliminated. You can do this on your own, without resorting to calling specialists.

1. The drainage hose that goes out must be given the correct slope, eliminate the bends that have appeared, and then fix it so that the wind does not blow in.
2. You can lengthen the drain tube, actually lowering it to the ground, this will also solve the problem.
3. Additionally, it is recommended to clean the drainage system itself, including the pan in the indoor unit of the air conditioner, as it can also become a source of unpleasant noise.
4. The tube connected directly to the sewer must be pulled out and then installed through a special siphon for climate technology. With this connection, blowing air into the drainage system is completely excluded.

in the freon circuit

In the event that, after inspecting the drainage system, the cause of the noise was not identified, it is necessary to check the condition of the route. As a result of improper installation, incomplete evacuation, incorrect filling with freon, damage to copper pipes, their insufficient length, significant bends or other reasons, air pockets could form inside the system - when freon breaks through them, a gurgling sound is heard.

Sometimes owners of climate equipment note that the outdoor unit whistles or squeaks when turned on, and not just gurgles. This is another sign of kinked lines. In this case, the free movement of the refrigerant is hindered, and therefore the corresponding sound appears.

In other places

In addition to the pipeline and drainage system, it is necessary to check the condition of the indoor and outdoor units.So, insects could settle in the evaporator located indoors. It is not recommended to leave them inside, as they can damage the equipment, as well as harm a person (for example, wasps or bees).

There are other reasons for the appearance of extraneous noise. For example, a split system may make a hum, gurgle and crackle during the defrost mode. It periodically turns on during the cold season to remove ice from the frozen outdoor unit. These sounds should not cause alarm, as they accompany the normal functioning of the climate system.

How to get rid of air conditioner noise?

The way to eliminate noise during the operation of the air conditioner is determined depending on the cause of its occurrence. Consider the most common malfunctions that cause atypical sounds, and how to get rid of them.

How to get rid of noise:

1. A crackling noise is heard when the air conditioner is running. It can occur due to thermal expansion of the case under the influence of temperature. This problem is often of a transient nature that does not require attention.
2. A crackling noise occurs when a compressor fails or a fan impeller is damaged. In both cases, replacement of damaged parts is necessary.
3. Knock when turning on the split system. Occurs when components are loose. You need to check these parts and tighten if necessary.
4. Vibration with increasing amplitude. A very serious problem that needs to be addressed immediately. The cause of the problem may be a faulty compressor, an imbalance in the motor or fan drive. Only the master can correct the situation.
5. Vibration during operation of the air conditioner may also occur due to improper installation of the unit.In this case, it needs to be dismantled and reinstalled.
6. If, when turned on, hissing sounds are heard, it is necessary to check the tubes of the freon route, since the cause of the noise may be a refrigerant leak or tube kinks. Repair work is best left to professionals.

The loud noise that occurs during the operation of the air conditioner must not be ignored. Minor equipment malfunctions, manifested by sound effects, are easily eliminated. Timely repair will eliminate more serious breakdowns that entail high costs or a complete replacement of climate equipment.

Air conditioner noises

Domestic and industrial air conditioners, by definition, cannot operate completely silently. Firstly, the device contains an electric motor in which the rotor rotates at a high angular velocity. When the friction of the rotor and adjacent parts, a characteristic noise occurs.

Secondly, in all compression air conditioners (and most of them in the world) there is a device that converts the refrigerant from a gaseous state to a liquid one. This process inevitably generates a characteristic hum (by the way, the howl of the wind in bad weather has a similar physical nature). It was because of the noise of compressors that 90 years ago, at the dawn of the climate era, the external units of air conditioners began to be moved outside the premises and mounted on the walls and on the ground. In fairness, we note that there was another reason: in the first General Electric air conditioners, not harmless freon was used as a refrigerant, but poisonous ammonia, the leakage of which in the room could have fatal consequences.

The third node of increased noise is a fan that pumps air into the cooling circuit.The fan blades make a slight noise, but when the device is unbalanced, it increases. Users of personal computers face a similar problem - an electronic machine, if the axis or fan blades are damaged, begins to buzz characteristically.

The listed sources of noise are “as if” normal, regular, you can’t completely get rid of them, you just need to make sure that the noise level in decibels does not exceed the values ​​prescribed in the technical documentation.

About the codes of standard breakdowns

First of all, you need to watch how many times the sensors flash. If it "blinks" only once - most likely, the problem lies in the thermistor, which is installed on the indoor unit of the split system. Two beeps indicate that there is a problem with the outdoor unit. With three flashes, the system starts to work simultaneously for cold and heat.

Overload protection is disabled if the lamp flashes four times. Five times the signal is switched on means the appearance of errors between the blocks in the process of information exchange. Six blinks means that the level of consumption is significantly higher than the norm. It is recommended to carry out additional testing in different parts of the device.

With ten flashes, the travel valve was definitely broken. Finally, switching on 10 times indicates a thermistor that has failed. no longer performs temperature control. Most brands and models of devices experience roughly the same problems. Each device has its own codes, which indicate errors. The instruction will help to identify the malfunction, set the correct settings for stable operation.

Conclusion

You can fix most of the malfunctions in the operation of the air conditioner yourself, and it is not necessary to have the skills of a professional craftsman. Certain causes can be prevented in advance, for example, by cleaning the filters in the indoor unit in a timely manner. To eliminate some sources of incorrect operation of the device, it is enough to read the instruction manual. If you avoid compliance with the rules for using the unit, you can shorten the life of the equipment.

If you cannot fix the problem yourself, it is better to contact the service center. So you can provide for extra costs for the purchase of parts that may not even be needed.

Watch a video about air conditioner breakdowns