- Types of homemade stoves in development
- The device and disadvantages of an open-type potbelly stove
- Pros and cons of a dropper
- Purchase or DIY?
- Garage heating features
- Garage heating features
- How to make an oil stove with your own hands?
- Tools, materials
- Step-by-step instruction
- Potbelly stoves - proven and simple designs
- Potbelly stoves from a cylinder, barrel or pipe
- vertical
- Horizontal
- From two barrels
- Making a wood stove
- Main advantages
- The design of the "potbelly stove"
- What will be required in the work
- Construction assembly
- Operation features
- Do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a pipe or barrel
- Briefly about the requirements
Types of homemade stoves in development
Engine oil contaminated with impurities does not itself ignite. Therefore, the principle of operation of any oil potbelly stove is based on the thermal decomposition of fuel - pyrolysis. Simply put, to obtain heat, mining must be heated, evaporated and burned in the furnace furnace, supplying excess air. There are 3 types of devices where this principle is implemented in various ways:
- The simplest and most popular design of direct combustion with afterburning of oil vapors in an open-type perforated pipe (the so-called miracle stove).
- Waste oil drip furnace with closed afterburner;
- Babington burner.How it works and how to make it yourself is described in detail in our other publication.
The efficiency of heating stoves is low and amounts to a maximum of 70%. Note that the heating costs indicated at the beginning of the article are calculated based on factory heat generators with an efficiency of 85% (for a complete picture and comparison of oil with firewood, you can go here). Accordingly, fuel consumption in home-made heaters is much higher - from 0.8 to 1.5 liters per hour versus 0.7 liters for diesel boilers per 100 m² of area. Consider this fact, taking up the manufacture of the furnace for testing.
The device and disadvantages of an open-type potbelly stove
The pyrolysis stove shown in the photo is a cylindrical or square container, a quarter filled with used oil or diesel fuel and equipped with an air damper. A pipe with holes is welded on top, through which secondary air is sucked in due to the chimney draft. Even higher is the afterburning chamber with a baffle to remove the heat of combustion products.
The principle of operation is as follows: the fuel must be ignited using a flammable liquid, after which the evaporation of mining and its primary combustion will begin, causing pyrolysis. Combustible gases, getting into a perforated pipe, flare up from contact with an oxygen stream and are completely burned. The intensity of the flame in the firebox is regulated by an air damper.
This mining stove has only two advantages: simplicity with low cost and independence from electricity. The rest are solid cons:
- stable natural draft is required for operation, without it the unit begins to smoke into the room and fade;
- water or antifreeze that gets into the oil causes mini-explosions in the firebox, which causes fire drops from the afterburner to splash in all directions and the owner has to put out the fire;
- high fuel consumption - up to 2 l / h with poor heat transfer (the lion's share of energy flies into the pipe);
- one-piece housing is difficult to clean from soot.
Although outwardly the potbelly stoves differ, but they operate according to the same principle, in the right photo, fuel vapors burn out inside a wood-burning stove
Some of these shortcomings can be leveled with the help of successful technical solutions, which will be discussed below. During operation, fire safety rules should be followed and used oil should be prepared - defended and filtered.
Pros and cons of a dropper
The cardinal difference of this furnace is as follows:
- the perforated pipe is placed inside a steel case from a gas cylinder or pipe;
- fuel enters the combustion zone in the form of droplets falling to the bottom of the bowl located under the afterburner;
- To increase efficiency, the unit is equipped with forced air by means of a fan, as shown in the diagram.
Scheme of a dropper with a bottom supply of fuel from a fuel tank by gravity
The real disadvantage of a drip stove is the difficulty for a beginner. The fact is that you cannot rely entirely on other people's drawings and calculations, the heater must be manufactured and adjusted to suit your operating conditions and properly organize the fuel supply. That is, it will require repeated improvements.
The flame heats up the body of the heating unit in one zone around the burner
The second negative point is typical for supercharged stoves.In them, a jet of flame constantly hits one place of the body, which is why the latter will burn out pretty quickly if it is not made of thick metal or stainless steel. But the listed disadvantages are more than offset by the advantages:
- The unit is safe in operation, since the combustion zone is completely covered with an iron case.
- Acceptable waste oil consumption. In practice, a well-tuned potbelly stove with a water circuit burns up to 1.5 liters in 1 hour to heat 100 m² of area.
- It is possible to wrap the body with a water jacket and remake the furnace for working out into a boiler.
- The fuel supply and power of the unit can be adjusted.
- Undemanding to the height of the chimney and ease of cleaning.
Pressurized air boiler burning used engine oil and diesel fuel
Purchase or DIY?
A wood-burning stove in the garage is an indispensable attribute for heating a small room in which a lot of things are stored. Most people can afford to hire builders to install the stove, but this is notoriously expensive.
Scheme of operation of the furnace on solid fuel.
Often a purchased oven is installed free of charge: many supplier companies have a policy of free installation of equipment when it is purchased.
The owners of garages and, in combination, experienced welders have created the best option for making a furnace that does not require large investments and long-term efforts. Such a furnace can be designed independently, without resorting to the help of specialists.
For its manufacture, you need to evaluate the size of the room and choose the right version of the stove. It is also necessary to observe the necessary safety rules during its construction and further operation.The room in which the oven will be made must be with good ventilation - forced or natural.
It should be noted that any furnace that runs on solid fuel materials can be made independently, therefore, if desired, as well as having time, it is recommended to start creating it yourself.
This can be done if the owner previously worked with a grinder and a welding machine. If there is no such experience, an unsafe and inefficient furnace may result.
Garage heating features
In a cold garage in winter is very unpleasant. That is why heating is required. Garage stoves are usually small steel potbelly stoves. They are made from thick-walled barrels, pipe segments or from gas bottles. Such garage stoves are simpler in execution, require only minor modifications, because the body, and sometimes the bottom, is already there. Furnaces are also made from sheet metal, but these are options for those who are closely friends with welding. Brick stoves in garages are not very common - they are still larger, they heat up less, which is not entirely suitable for this case.
Garage stove option
The most common potbelly stoves that work on wood, everything that burns is laid in them. Such omnivorousness and fast heating are their main advantages. They also have many shortcomings, and one of them is gluttony, therefore, more economical long-burning stoves have recently begun to be made. Usually the top burning principle is used. They are good because one full bookmark (an oven from a 50 liter propane cylinder) can burn up to 8 hours. All this time it is warm in the garage.
Ovens are being worked out separately. There is enough similar fuel in garages, but you need to be careful with mining - heavy metals are contained there and excellent traction is required to prevent them from getting inside.
Garage heating features
A capital garage with insulation is not available to every car owner. Most often, at the disposal of the owner of the vehicle is a metal structure, devoid of any insulation. Any thermal energy leaves such a structure almost instantly.
When solving the problem of heating a garage, you should not evaluate its need for heat based on a similar experience with a residential building. And it's not just the lack of insulation.
There is a so-called square-cube law, which states that when the dimensions of a geometric body decrease, the ratio of the surface area of this body to its volume increases.
For normal storage of the car in the garage, the temperature inside the box should not fall below +5º and rise above +18º during the presence of the owners and the performance of repair work. Requirements are regulated by SP 113.13330.2012
This affects the size of the heat loss of the object, therefore, to heat one cubic meter of a small room, for example, a garage, more heat is needed than when heating a large house.
If a 10 kW heater may be enough for a two-story building, then a much smaller garage will need a unit with a capacity of about 2-2.5 kW of thermal energy.
To maintain a very modest operating temperature at 16 ° C, a 1.8 kW stove is enough.If you need to maintain only the optimum temperature for storing the car in the parking lot - 8 ° C - a 1.2 kW unit is suitable.
It turns out that the fuel consumption for heating a unit volume of garage space can be twice as high as for a residential building.
To thoroughly warm the entire garage, its walls and floor, even more heat energy is needed, i.e. more powerful heater. But even with insulation, heat will leave the room too quickly. Therefore, it is recommended not to heat the entire garage, but only the so-called workspace.
Efficient heating of the garage can be performed using the so-called "warm cap", formed in the process of naturally limited convection of warm air in the room
The idea is to concentrate warm air in the center of the room and around it in such a way that a layer of cold air remains between the walls and the ceiling. As a result, equipment and people will constantly be in a cloud of air at a comfortable temperature, and the consumption of thermal energy will be noticeably reduced.
Experts call this phenomenon a warm cap, it occurs due to naturally limited convection. An intense stream of heated air rises, but does not reach the ceiling a little, since its kinetic energy is extinguished by denser cold layers.
Further, the hot stream is distributed to the sides, slightly touching the walls or at a short distance from them. Almost the entire garage becomes warm; under the influence of convection processes, even the viewing hole warms up.
To achieve this effect, garage stoves of relatively low power are suitable, creating an intense, but not particularly dense flow of warm air.
The natural convection of the air mass in the garage ensures the formation of a temperature favorable for work even in the inspection hole
An alternative garage heating option is to use various infrared heaters. For a garage with metal walls, such equipment is not particularly well suited. Infrared radiation is poorly reflected from metal surfaces, it penetrates through them, as a result, all the heat will simply go outside.
For a brick garage with half-brick walls, experts also do not recommend an infrared heater. This material does not transmit infrared waves, but does not reflect them. The brick absorbs this type of heat energy and releases it over time. Unfortunately, the process of accumulating energy and returning it takes too much time.
How to make an oil stove with your own hands?
Tools, materials
Making an oil oven for a garage with your own hands is quite easy. In order to make a pyrolysis type stove, you will need the following:
- Apparatus for welding of any type;
- Angle grinder (Bulgarian);
- Cutting and grinding wheels for grinders;
- Two pieces of pipe with a diameter of 100 millimeters. One is 35-40 centimeters long, the second is 20-25 centimeters. The thickness of the metal is at least 4 mm.
- Two pieces of pipe with a diameter of 350 millimeters, a length of 10-15 centimeters. One piece of metal pipe with a diameter of approximately 360 mm., 10 centimeters long. The wall thickness of the pipes is 5-6 millimeters.
- A sheet of iron 6 mm thick, large enough to cut four circles with a diameter of 360 mm.
- Three - four segments of the corner 40-50 mm. 10-15 centimeters long (for stove legs);
- Electric drill;
- Drill for metal 8-9 mm;
- Compasses for marking;
- Roulette
If there is no iron pipe with a diameter of 350 mm, it can be made from sheet iron. You will need a sheet of soft iron (should bend well) 1130 mm long. Roll into a circle, boil the joint. Dimensions may be different, depending on the desired dimensions of the furnace.
- Scheme of an oil stove for a garage:
- This photo shows a drawing of the details of a pyrolysis type furnace:
Step-by-step instruction
- Using a compass, mark circles of the diameter indicated above on an iron sheet, cut them out with a grinder;
- Weld the resulting circles to pipe sections 350-360 mm. Brew one segment on both sides (you will get a cylinder), for the remaining two, brew only one side (make “pans”); Note: instead of pipes, you can take rims.
- Cut holes 10 cm in diameter in the cylinder. Centered at the top, offset to one side at the bottom.
- We weld the corners to one of the “pots” (with a thicker bottom), we get the legs of the base of the furnace.
- In the other, in the center, we cut a hole for the pipe, and another 60 mm. (for air access and oil filling) closer to the edge.
- Weld a piece of chimney pipe into the cylinder from above;
- First, in a piece of a hundredth pipe 35-40 centimeters long, use an electric drill to drill holes 8-9 millimeters in diameter in a circle (48). It is necessary to drill evenly, it is better to make markings in advance; Weld the pipe to the cylinder and the "pan";
- The resulting welded structure is tightly put on the base of the furnace (a pipe section with welded legs);
- Install an adjusting flap at the opening for filling fuel and air supply (can be riveted or screwed with bolts).
- Spacers made of a metal rod or pipe are installed between the lower and upper tanks in order to make the structure more rigid.
Potbelly stoves - proven and simple designs
Potbelly stoves - a hit of the 20s of the last century. Then these stoves competed with brick ones and stood everywhere, even in apartments. Later, with the advent of centralized heating, they lost their relevance, but are used in garages, summer cottages, for heating utility or outbuildings.
sheet metal
Potbelly stoves from a cylinder, barrel or pipe
The most suitable material for making a potbelly stove for a garage is propane tanks or a thick-walled pipe. Barrels are also suitable, but you need to look for a not very large volume and with a thick wall. In any case, the minimum wall thickness is 2-3 mm, the optimal one is 5 mm. Such a stove will serve for more than one year.
By design, they are vertical and horizontal. It is more convenient to heat a horizontal one with firewood - longer logs fit. It is easier to make it elongated upwards, but the firebox is small in size, you will have to cut firewood finely.
A potbelly stove for a garage can be made from a cylinder or a pipe with a thick wall
vertical
First, how to make a vertical garage oven from a cylinder or pipe. Divide the selected segment into two unequal parts. Below is a smaller one for collecting ashes, above is the main one for laying firewood. The following is the order of work:
- Cut out the doors. Small at the bottom, large at the top.We use the cut pieces as doors, so we don’t throw them away.
- We weld the grates in the chosen place. Usually it is steel reinforcement 12-16 mm thick cut into pieces of the desired length. The fitting step is about 2 cm.
How to make grates - We weld the bottom if it is not.
- We cut a hole in the lid for the chimney, weld a strip of metal about 7-10 cm high. It is better to make the outer diameter of the resulting pipe for standard chimneys. Then there will be no problems with the chimney device.
- The cover with the welded pipe is welded into place.
- By welding we fasten locks, hinges to the cut-out pieces-doors and put all this in place. As a rule, potbelly stoves are leaky, so seals can be omitted. But if desired, a strip of metal 1.5-2 cm wide can be welded around the perimeter of the doors. Its protruding part will close a small gap around the perimeter.
All in all, that's all. It remains to assemble the chimney and you can test a new stove for the garage.
Horizontal
If the body is horizontal, the ash drawer is usually welded on from below. It can be welded to the required dimensions from sheet steel or a suitable sized piece of channel can be used. In the part of the body that will be directed downward, holes are made. It is better to cut something like a grate.
How to make a potbelly stove in the garage from a gas cylinder
Then in the upper part of the body we make a pipe for the chimney. To do this, you can weld a cut piece from a pipe of a suitable diameter. After a piece of pipe is installed and the seam checked, the metal inside the ring is cut out.
Next, you can make the legs. Corner segments are best suited, to which small pieces of metal are attached from below to stand stably.
The next step is to install the doors. On the blower, you can cut a piece of metal, attach loops and constipation. Here without any problems. The gaps along the edges do not interfere - air for combustion will flow through them.
There will be no difficulties even if you make a metal door - welding the hinges is not a problem. Only here, in order to be able to at least slightly regulate combustion, the door needs to be made a little larger - so that the perimeter of the opening is closed.
How to install furnace casting on a metal stove
It is problematic to install furnace casting. Suddenly someone wants to have not a steel door, but a cast-iron one. Then it is necessary to weld a frame from a steel corner, attach a casting to it with bolts, and weld this entire structure to the body.
From two barrels
Everyone who used a potbelly stove knows that very hard radiation comes from its body. Often the walls are heated to a red glow. Then next to her is impossible. The problem is solved by an interesting design: two barrels of different diameters are inserted one into the other. The gaps between the walls are covered with pebbles, clay mixed with sand (calcined on fire, covered only when it has cooled down). The inner barrel acts as a firebox, and the outer one is only the body.
This stove will take longer to heat up. It will not immediately begin to give off heat, but it will be more comfortable in the garage and after the fuel burns out, it will warm the room for a couple more hours - giving off the heat accumulated in the tab.
Making a wood stove
Making a wood stove
This is a simple option that is ideal for heating a garage space.The most popular among motorists is a design called "potbelly stove".
Main advantages
Do-it-yourself potbelly stove
Among the many positive qualities that such a furnace possesses, it is worth noting:
- no need to build a foundation;
- ease of use;
- the possibility of using both for heating and for cooking;
- profitability;
- autonomy from communications;
- low cost;
- small dimensions;
- high efficiency.
The design of the "potbelly stove"
The design of the "potbelly stove"
The design of the "potbelly stove"
There are no clear requirements regarding the design, everyone can make a "potbelly stove" taking into account their own needs and preferences. But in any case, the stove should consist of four main elements.
- The combustion chamber is a container in which fuel will burn.
- Lattice located next to the base. It provides traction and is used for stacking firewood.
- The ash pan is installed below the grate. It is necessary to remove soot accumulations.
- Chimney.
If desired, the "potbelly stove" can be somewhat improved to reduce the consumption of firewood. For this purpose, the exhaust pipe is not installed next to the rear wall, but on top of the door. In this case, the walls of the furnace will first heat up, and only then the gases will enter the pipe. Consequently, the heat transfer time will increase.
Making a potbelly stove
Making a potbelly stove
Making a potbelly stove
What will be required in the work
For the manufacture of a wood stove, the following materials are required:
- channel;
- iron container for 200 l;
- pipes.
To determine the volume of consumables, read the drawings of the garage oven, carefully study all the connecting nodes.
Construction assembly
Construction assembly
Approximate scheme of the furnace
Step 1.First, cut off the top of the container. To do this, you can use the grinder.
200 liter barrel
Step 2. The formed edges are equal. The edges of the barrel are wrapped with a hammer inside. The edges of the lid are folded in the same way, but this time outward.
Step 3. A hole ø10-15 cm for the pipe is cut in the center of the lid. To do this, you can use a hammer and chisel.
Step 4. A channel is welded to the cover. At the same time, the hole for the cork can be either welded or left for visual control of the combustion process.
pressure circle
Setting the pressure wheel into the oven
Step 5. A hole ø10 cm is made under the chimney in the upper part of the body, a pipe is welded.
Step 6. A pipe of the appropriate diameter is inserted into the hole on the lid so that it rises slightly above the surface. With the help of this pipe, air will be supplied to the structure.
Furnace elements
garage oven
The oven-"potbelly stove" is ready.
Chimney installation
Chimney installation
Chimney installation
Chimney installation
Chimney installation
Operation features
After assembling the oven, it is necessary to test it for correct functioning. To do this, you need to perform the following sequence of actions.
Loading firewood
Step 1. First, the combustion chamber is filled with firewood by a third.
Step 2. The air supply pipe is installed and closed with a lid. As the fuel burns, the cover lowers a little.
Step 3. Firewood is inserted, slightly moistened with gasoline, a lit match is thrown.
Oven in operation
Do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a pipe or barrel
Such a furnace is made of a horizontal or vertical design. The diameter of the pipe or barrel is chosen depending on the size of the free space in the garage.The vertical version is assembled in the following sequence:
- On the side surface at the locations of the firebox and the blower, 2 rectangular holes are cut out.
- Doors are made from cut pieces by welding a frame of metal strips. Install latches and handles.
- Inside, stepping back 10 cm from the lower edge of the firebox door, brackets are welded from the corners under the grate made of reinforcement.
- The ends of the pipe structure are welded.
- Legs are welded from below
- A hole for the chimney is cut in the upper part.
- Hinges are welded, doors are hung.
- Connect the flue pipe.
The assembly of the horizontal version is slightly different:
- The door for the firebox from the cut piece is installed at the end.
- There is no blower; instead, a hole with a diameter of 20 mm is drilled below the door.
- To install the stove, a stand is made from corners or pipes.
- A removable grate is made from a sheet of metal of such a width that the center is 7 cm from the outermost point of the side surface of the body. Holes are drilled to allow air to pass over the entire area of the sheet.
- If the potbelly stove is from a pipe, a chimney pipe is welded at the top at the back. First, a circle of the required diameter is drawn on the barrel, then radial cuts are made at an angle of 15⁰. The resulting sectors are bent up. A pipe is attached to them with rivets.
Briefly about the requirements
When taking on a particular project, it is important to remember that the main thing is your own safety. That is why there are very specific requirements for garage ovens - made of metal, a gas cylinder, and indeed from any material, ignoring which entails an equally specific threat to your life.
We have collected the main ones - remember:
- when arranging the chimney, take care of the tightness of its channel;
- place the oven at a solid distance from flammable objects and liquids;
- do not use suspicious substances as fuel, as the vapors released during combustion can be harmful to your health;
- the exhaust valve must be no less than 10 cm in diameter;
- the recommended dimensions for standard potbelly stoves are 70x50x35 cm, while the volume of the structure should not exceed 12 liters.















































