Where to drain the air conditioner water: norms and options for a drainage device for a split system

Cleaning the drainage system

In domestic conditions, without the help of a specialist, it is possible to clean the drainage system only if only the tub nozzle is dirty. For this you need:

Unfasten the filter, which is located on the air conditioner housing and rinse it thoroughly.
After removing the lower fasteners, disconnect the drainage tube and remove the bath.
Rinse these parts, paying special attention to the holes.

Also, experts recommend using disinfectants during the cleaning procedure, for example, chlorhexidine solution.

For other failures associated with clogged drainage, you need technical equipment, it is better to call the master. Self-repair can damage expensive equipment.

Health impact

The main danger of clogging the drainage is not the consequences of flooding the neighbors or the breakdown of an expensive device, but the threat to the life and health of the inhabitants of the cool room. If there is dirt, water and heat, then this automatically creates the risk of creating a whole incubator of various infections in the split system:

• Mold fungi. Some strains can cause respiratory diseases up to lung cancer.
• bacteria. There is a certain variety that causes Legionnaires' Disease, a bacterial inflammation of the lungs. At the same time, the mortality rate is very high.
• An unpleasant smell is the least of the possible evils. At the same time, it serves as a kind of last warning - it's time to clean the drainage.

How much will it cost if you do NOT install it yourself

Various factors affect the cost of installation. Thus, it is usually cheaper to install models of small capacity than more powerful units, since the latter may differ in the weight of the outdoor unit, pipe diameter, refrigerant displacement, etc. The price for the simplest type of installation of a wall-mounted split system in Moscow (with the installation of an outdoor unit under the window, and an indoor unit at a distance of up to 5 m from the outdoor one) is 7000-9000 rubles, multi-split systems are about twice as expensive.

Separately, you will have to pay extra for the services of chasing the walls under the track or installing the box, for the work of climbers (if any), for refueling the split system, for various non-standard situations, etc. Each company develops a swap list of services and prices, after checking with which you can calculate future expenses.

Coordination for the installation of a split system

From the point of view of Russian legislation, the installation of a split system is equivalent to redevelopment and reorganization of the premises. After all, the outdoor unit (and, unlike the indoor one, does not differ in design frills and looks like a big box) spoils the appearance of the facade of the building, makes a lot of noise, and also drips with condensate, which irritates the neighbors and can harm the walls of the building. That is, the split system affects the appearance of the building and can interfere with residents. And redevelopment, as you know, needs to be coordinated ... Or not?

Since 2005, in Moscow, for the legal installation of an air conditioner, it was necessary to go through a complex multi-stage procedure: develop a project for installing the device, calculate the noise of the outdoor unit, coordinate the project with Rospotrebnadzor, AEZ, Moscomarchitecture, and then get permission from the Moscow Housing Inspection. Moreover, the project and noise calculations were carried out by specialized organizations - and by no means free of charge. The cost of all the delays sometimes exceeded the cost of the equipment itself.

However, after the abnormally hot summer of 2010, the city authorities revised the terms of the agreement, as a result, since 2011, split systems can be installed in Moscow without going through a complicated procedure for collecting documents and permits. This measure saves both money and time for air conditioner users.

True, the housing inspectorate retains the right to check whether the installation conditions for the air conditioner comply with the standards; if not, the owner will have to fix everything at his own expense. But with buildings recognized as objects of cultural heritage, it is more difficult: here the installation of an air conditioner is allowed from the side of the courtyard, on the “front” facade - only under certain conditions.

In the regions of Russia, the situation with coordination develops in different ways. In some regions and cities, there are legislative acts requiring the approval of the installation of an air conditioner, in others they are not. Often, local authorities turn a blind eye to the installation of split systems, reacting only to those cases when complaints are received about a particular air conditioner. Then the owner may be required to dismantle the equipment or change its configuration (for example, redo the drainage system so that it does not interfere with neighbors or does not damage the walls). Sometimes you have to coordinate the installation of a split system with the HOA.

Many developer companies have taken care of the problem of air conditioners and facades of houses in advance. It is now common practice for residents of new buildings who want to install air conditioning.

It is prescribed to place the outdoor units in certain places. The blocks located according to such rules harmoniously fit into the architecture of the building. An even more convenient option is specially designed zones for air conditioners on balconies. They allow you to easily install the air conditioner and protect it from rain.

Why is the air conditioner crying?

As mentioned above, the air conditioner is leaking, most likely due to a clogged drainage system.During the operation of the split system, condensate inevitably forms on the heat exchanger of the evaporative unit, which flows into a special tray, and from there, through the drainage pipe, is removed outside the room.

But during the operation of the air conditioner, dust, particles of pet hair and other contaminants that the filter did not hold back stick to the wet heat exchanger. Pollution, along with condensate, enters the sump, and from it into the drain pipe. The problem is that the diameter of the drainage tube is only about 10 mm. Dust and dirt from the air conditioner very easily clog the drain holes, the condensate has nowhere to go and it simply flows out of the pan.

This is the most common cause of air conditioning leaks. But in some cases, the flow of climate technology indicates more complex problems, for example:

Freezing of condensate on the heat exchanger. Frost appears on the evaporator in the event of a decrease in the performance of the air conditioner. The reason for this may be a decrease in the volume of refrigerant in the system, clogged filters and the heat exchanger itself. When thawing, moisture will not fall into the pan as it should, but will drain down to the floor through the internal elements of the block.

• Broken pressure regulator. The pressure drop in the system leads to a decrease in the temperature of the evaporator unit heat exchanger. hence ice and leakage as in the first case.
• In some models of air conditioners, a special pump is used to remove condensate from the sump. When it fails, moisture is not pumped out and overflow occurs.
• Damage to the condensate level sensor.

There are more common causes of leakage, such as icing and improper installation of the split system.How to clean climate equipment at home, will be described below.

How to clean your air conditioner at home

Knowing how often you need to clean, you need to figure out how to properly clean the device at home. The question of how to wash the air conditioner yourself can be confusing, but in reality there is nothing complicated about it.

To begin with, something should be placed on the floor under the indoor unit, on which dirt will fall in order to wash the split system without soiling the apartment. Then the front cover and protective mesh are removed. Removing the cover of the air conditioner yourself is not difficult. In the case of a bk 1500 air conditioner, you will have filters, a drainage system, a radiator with an evaporator and, of course, a fan in front of you.

How to clean the air conditioner filter

If you want to clean the split system yourself, cleaning the filters is a mandatory step. Filters are the first thing that catches your eye when you remove the cover of the bk 1500 air conditioner. It looks like a fine mesh, dotted with plastic partitions.

Depending on the company, their number varies from one to three. These items require frequent washing. You can even understand how to clean the air conditioner filter intuitively. Washing with cold water, vacuuming or a regular brush is suitable.

The filters must be dried before they are returned to their place.

How to clean the drainage system of the air conditioner

The key to how to clean the drain is in its device. The system consists of a tube and a tray that collects liquid. To remove the latter, it is disconnected from the board, then detached from the drain tube.It is enough to rinse the bath with water.

Now about how to clean the drain pipe of the air conditioner. Usually, a compressor or a vacuum cleaner switched on for blowing is attached to it, and it is simply blown through with a powerful air stream. After the channel is treated with chlorhexidine. It is pumped in and left for 15 minutes. Then the blowing procedure is repeated. These actions will ensure proper cleanliness of the air conditioner drain.

To check the system at home and make sure everything is done correctly, one and a half liters of water is poured into the drainage. The absence of leaks is a sign of high-quality cleaning.

How to clean an air conditioner fan

After removing the filters, the dust is blown out with a vacuum cleaner with a blowing function or with a can of compressed air. Then the drum blades are covered with soapy water. It is better to do this with a suitable brush.

The detergent can be both laundry soap and dishwashing liquid. The fan will get rid of dirt itself when you turn it on. Beforehand, you should put some kind of film under the diffuser grille.

How to clean an air conditioner radiator

Unfortunately, there is no way to clean the radiator thoroughly at home. You will have to limit yourself to surface cleaning.

The radiator of the bk 1500 air conditioner is located under the front panel, which will have to be unscrewed. It is cleaned with an ordinary brush, preferably with a long pile. Then, by switching the system to recirculation mode at a minimum temperature, it is required to spray about half a liter of antiseptic in the air intake area.

How to clean an air conditioner evaporator

The evaporator is cleaned in the same way as the radiator of the bk 1500 air conditioner, but the brush must be driven exclusively from top to bottom, in order to avoid damage to thin plates. The dirt film from the heat exchanger is perfectly removed by a steam cleaner. Then proceed to the treatment with an antiseptic.

You have received enough information on how to clean the air conditioner yourself, but still this does not exhaust the maintenance of climate technology. One way or another, the split system, as it is used, will lose refrigerant, approximately 5% per year, if there was no depressurization.

Therefore, even knowing how to clean the split system yourself, you won’t be able to do without the services of specialists. From time to time, you will have to send the air conditioner to a service center for verification, and then it will delight you with a long and flawless service.

Where to drain the air conditioner water: norms and options for a drainage device for a split system

The eternal headache of installers and designers: where to drain the air conditioner water. No one is satisfied with the installation of a duct with drainage through the entire wall, the neighbors below complain about dripping water from the drainage hose around the clock. Agree, this question deserves a search for a more worthy solution.

You will learn everything about the issues of education, collection and discharge of condensate that accompanies the operation of a household split system from the article presented by us. We will tell you how best to dispose of it with minimal inconvenience to yourself and others. Consider recommendations for installing a drainage hose and how to output it.

Outdoor unit installation

The choice of a place for mounting the outdoor unit should be taken extremely seriously - not only the efficiency of the device and its safety, but also the comfort of both owners and residents of neighboring apartments will depend on the result.

The outdoor unit is attached to the wall of the building or on the side of the balcony. It is allowed to install the block inside the balcony, but only if it is not glazed. Do not install the unit on the ground unless the equipment is securely supported.

The surface on which the outdoor unit will be fixed must be rigid, durable and withstand the weight of the equipment (and the unit can weigh several tens of kilograms). The outdoor unit is mounted on brackets, which are sometimes supplemented with vibration damping gaskets, although this is not a mandatory action.

It is important that the outdoor unit is level and horizontal, as misalignment may cause malfunctions. The block body is installed so that there is a gap of empty space between it and the wall

There should be no protrusions of walls or other obstacles near the unit that interfere with air exchange. Poor air circulation reduces the performance of the air conditioner.

The unit should not be located in the immediate vicinity of the windows of neighboring apartments - the noise it produces and warm air currents can interfere with residents, and this will become a reason for claims from the housing inspectorate. If you plan to bring the drainage channel through the outdoor unit, then you need to mount it so that condensate does not drip onto the walls, window sills and passers-by below.

The simplest and most economical type of installation is to install the outdoor unit under the window. However, he is not always successful.So, due to the close location of the outdoor unit to the window, noise and vibrations arising from the operation of the device can be felt indoors. Therefore, many owners make a choice in favor of mounting the outdoor unit on blank walls, away from windows. In this case, the wall itself will become a reliable protection against noise. But installing a block on it will also cost more, since it will have to be hung at best with a stepladder (if we are talking about the lower floors of the house), and at worst - using the services of industrial climbers.

Unlike most types of household appliances, the air conditioner requires service. Not only the indoor unit, but also the outdoor unit is subject to periodic inspection and cleaning. Therefore, the easy accessibility of the block for masters is a definite plus. But it’s not always possible to guess so that it’s convenient to get to the block and at the same time it doesn’t bother anyone. It is usually easier to inspect the outdoor units fixed under the window (some manufacturers for this purpose develop units with an easily removable top cover), on the ground floor, on the balcony. If the block hangs at a distance from the windows or even on a blank wall, then the services of the same industrial climbers will be needed for inspection.

Outdoor units are made taking into account the fact that they can be placed outdoors, but it is better to protect them from direct sunlight and precipitation. For these purposes, a visor can be installed above the outdoor unit - it will protect the equipment from the sun, water, snow, as well as from falling icicles and ice when cleaning the roof.

Related link: Climate technology (humidifiers, split systems, air conditioners) in questions and answers

purpose

Siphon for split system is a special device that connects the condensate outlet pipe to the sewer system. The main purpose of the device is to remove moisture from the air conditioner to drain communications and protect the premises from the unpleasant smell of sewage. Moreover, the use of a siphon ensures the aesthetics of the exterior of buildings by preventing water from running off onto walls and pavement. At the same time, along with the aesthetic component, there is also a practical one.

So, water dripping from the outlet pipe forms puddles and excessively moistens the blind areas of houses. This, in turn, negatively affects the foundation and eventually leads to its destruction. In winter, air conditioners that are not equipped with a siphon run the risk of failure due to freezing of condensate inside the drain pipe.

The purpose of the drain tube in the air conditioner

Condensation is an integral part of the efficient operation of the air conditioner. Its appearance is explained by the principle of operation of the split system itself. In the summer, when the air temperature is high, air conditioner owners try to cool their houses and apartments with the help of air conditioners. The split system itself, or other types of equipment, effectively copes with its task with the help of a refrigerant. Most often it is freon.

The principle of operation of the air conditioner is based on air cooling. It is with the help of freon, which circulates in the compressor-condenser unit along copper lines, that the temperature drops.Since the condenser part with the equipment heat exchanger is always located on the street, it is there that the collision of "hot" with "cold" occurs. Liquid droplets actively accumulate on the surface of the condenser, which can harm the operation of the air conditioner if they are not properly disposed of.

It is important that the disposal of condensate does not interfere with other people (in multi-storey residential buildings). The tube should be located away from windows and walls, as it is possible to harm the integrity of the structure itself

And the best option is to connect the drainage to the sewerage system. But, this method has no drawbacks. But only the owners of private property can organize it.

The tube should be taken out as far as possible from the walls of the house

Rules for installing the indoor unit

The indoor unit is that part of the split system, the design, the functional improvement of which is given great attention. And not in vain, because it is located indoors, one might say, it is the "face" of the climate equipment. There are many requirements for the installation of the indoor unit of the air conditioner, which are designed to organize it in the most qualitative way.

We list the basic rules for installing the indoor unit of a split system used by specialists:

The installation of the indoor unit of the air conditioner is subject to many requirements that are designed to organize it in the most qualitative way. We list the basic rules for installing the indoor unit of a split system used by specialists:

• Installation of the device is best done before or after repairs in the room. So you can lay communication paths in the most convenient, less costly way.
• It is necessary to observe strictly marked distances to the nearest walls, ceilings: at least 10 cm to the ceiling, at least 10 cm to the walls, taking into account the fact that from the device to the communications exit point - at least 50 cm.
• It is impossible to install windows behind curtains, in niches. This will limit the cooled air flow, it will circulate only through the space of the window opening.
• It should not be installed above high chests of drawers, cabinets (minimum - 1m). The airflow will also be limited by the obstruction, and the dust accumulated on the furniture will enter the room.
• Cannot be installed above elements of the heating system. The temperature sensor inside the unit will continuously detect a high temperature, prompting it to continuously operate in cooling mode. This will lead to rapid wear of parts, failure of the climate system.
• Arrange in such a way that the places of rest, work, frequent stay of people are outside the direct cooled air flow.
• The climate device must be located strictly horizontally to avoid accumulation and then overflow of condensate from the drainage tank.

Principle of operation

Structurally, siphons for air conditioners are similar to ordinary plumbing fixtures: they also have an inlet and outlet socket, and the inner tubes are connected to each other by a zigzag element - a knee.

The principle of operation of both devices is also the same, and is as follows: the condensate formed during the operation of the split system goes into the siphon through a special outlet pipe and begins to accumulate there. After the liquid level rises above the top of the knee, water begins to flow out of the siphon through the outlet pipe and go into the sewer.At the same time, the water plug located in the knee does not allow sewer odor to penetrate into the room, creating a water seal. In other words, air masses and liquid can move through the siphon in only one direction, while the device acts as a check valve. The flow of water into the siphon occurs continuously, which is why it does not stagnate and does not emit an unpleasant odor.

Why does condensation flow and what to do about it?

The main conditions for condensate leakage from your air conditioning unit are:

• Technological standards that must be observed during the installation of the air conditioner were violated;
• Substandard materials and other equipment were used in the device;
• Lack of regular preventive measures and professional maintenance.

During the removal of condensate, the liquid flows into the sump after it collects on the fins of the evaporator. Then, through the pipeline, the liquid flows down to the street under the influence of gravitational forces. In this scenario, the problem may arise due to the incorrect slope of the drain tube. It is contraindicated to use an office cooler bottle as a container for condensate accumulation.

It is better to choose a device that will periodically drain the condensate independently and constantly. In case of clogging of the drain pipe, all drainage is removed. The tray is removed. If a pump is installed in the drainage system, a filter with a float chamber is embedded in the drain pipe. To clean the drain pipe of the air conditioner, just blow it with your mouth or a pump, and then pour the detergent into the drain pipe.

After that, you need to clean the blockage well with a cable. Now check the operation of the air conditioner

To do this, without assembling the entire structure, carefully pour several glasses of water through the evaporator. Just be careful not to pour liquid on the terminal box along with the air conditioning control board

Drain pipes for air conditioners

It is easier to lay a drainage route with corrugated pipes

The drain pipe of the air conditioner, with the help of which the condensate formed inside is removed from it, is made of polyethylene or polyvinyl chloride. These materials are not affected by water, and products made from them are highly durable. In practice, manufacturers complete air conditioners with two types of reinforced tubes - smooth and corrugated. Smooth tubes are most often found in budget models of air conditioners. Their installation without special fittings is impossible.

The use of smooth pipes with fittings for laying a drainage pipeline is advisable when the air conditioner is located in close proximity to the sewer. If the point of connection of the tube to the sewer is at a sufficiently large distance, the use of fittings greatly complicates the installation of the pipeline.

The corrugated pipes are highly flexible and the installation of the drainage pipeline can be carried out without fittings. The drain hose for the air conditioner, assembled from corrugated tubes, can be bent at any angle, which greatly simplifies the process of laying the pipeline.

How does condensation form in an air conditioner?

The principle of operation of an air conditioner is similar to that of a refrigerator. The cold evaporator is blown by a jet of air, which is then cooled and enters the room in this form.A constantly passing stream carries with it a significant amount of water vapor, which settles on a cold surface in the form of water droplets. If a low temperature is set, the evaporator is covered with a thick layer of frost, which melts in pauses. A day from a small installation can accumulate 20 or more liters of moisture, requiring an organized removal. If a whole network of installations operates in a room, condensate volumes become a serious problem that requires an organized solution. The most successful solutions to the problem include draining the air conditioner into the sewer.

Connecting the air conditioner to the mains

To finish with the indoor unit, we proceed to connect the power wires.

After opening the front cover of the indoor unit, unscrew the plastic plug for connecting the cable.

After inserting the cable, connect it according to the electrical diagram. To do this, look for the designations on the terminal block:

L-phase

N - zero

earth icon

Check on the power cable where you have phase and zero and connect the corresponding ends to your terminals.

When connecting an air conditioner of low power (up to 2.5 kW) directly from a control room without a socket, a three-core cable VVGng-Ls 3 * 2.5 mm2 should be laid in your strobe.

A 16A machine is installed in the shield.

With a low-power conduit up to 1 kW, you can of course use a cross section and 1.5mm2 + automatic 10A, but 2.5mm2 is a more versatile option and will allow you to change the split system for more power without problems in the future.

If the air conditioner will be connected through an existing outlet, then use a wire with a PVA plug 3 * 2.5mm2.

In connecting the indoor and outdoor units to each other, there is also nothing complicated.Here, as a rule, a 4*2.5mm2 or 5*2.5mm2 cable is used. The terminal markings on these blocks are the same.

Accordingly, you throw a cable between them (not a PVS wire, but a VVGng cable!) And connect the wires of the same color to the terminals L1 on the indoor unit and L1 on the external, N - on the internal and N - on the external, etc. Just follow the connection diagram and labels.

Sometimes the air conditioner itself in the room is powered not from the outlet, but from the outdoor unit (most often for inverter models). In this case, the outdoor will have a few more terminals.

This is phase-zero-earth. Then the power cable from the outlet or diffuser in the switchboard, lay it outside, and not to the indoor unit.

The connection of the freon route tubes from the outside is similar to the room connection.

Condensate drainage options

There are several ways to drain air conditioners. The easiest way is to make a hole in the wall or window and pass a hose through it to the street, which at one end is connected to the nozzle of the bath located under the evaporator of the indoor unit of the unit. It is the simplicity of the operations performed that is considered a big plus of this method.

But it also has negative sides:

• a hose hanging from the side of the wall does not in any way increase the presentability of the appearance of the building, especially for a private house;
• from the free end of the hose, during the operation of the air conditioner, water will drip all the time, which, if it gets on the neighboring ebb of the window (lower), will lead to a scandal with the neighbors.

The second option for draining condensate is to connect the drain pipe to the sewer.The method is ideal for many rooms, but it has one big problem - the lack of a sewer section in the room where the indoor unit of the air conditioner is installed. Way out:

1. Install sewer pipes in this room with a slope of up to 3%.
2. Carry out the installation of drainage pipes to the nearest sewer section with the same minimum slope.

Which option to drain condensate from the air conditioner to the sewer to choose, everyone decides for himself. But it is necessary to indicate that the lowest costs, both in terms of finances and in terms of the labor intensity of the work carried out, relate to the second method. Firstly, drainage pipes can be laid both inside the wall along the strobes made, followed by sealing with repair mortars, and along the floor base with subsequent finishing.

Secondly, any hollow products of a sealed type can be used as drainage tubes. More often for this, a corrugated pipe of small diameter is purchased.

Attention! To prevent unpleasant odors from penetrating into the premises from the sewerage system, a water seal in the form of a conventional sewer siphon is installed at the junction of the connection of the drainage pipes and pipes of the sewer system. If there is no possibility of mounting a siphon, then the corrugated tube is bent in the form of the letter "S". Also an effective option.

It's also an effective option.

And one moment. If the air conditioner is not used for a long time, the water seal dries out, which leads to the penetration of unpleasant odors from the sewer. Therefore, periodically a little water must be poured into the drain system. And this is probably the only disadvantage of this method.

The third option for condensate drainage is the installation of a special pump.This drainage method is used only in two cases: the drainage system is long, there are drops in it. In household air conditioners, pumps are not included in the package, although they are sold as a separate item, and it will not be difficult to purchase it, plus mount it. In almost all industrial units, drainage pumps are installed at the factory.

Pumps are necessarily included in the standard package of cassette and duct air conditioners. There are pumps that are installed in external units, but more often they are installed in internal ones. Usually they are equipped with an additional container in which condensate is collected. And already from it the pump pumps out liquid.