Condensation in ventilation in a private house: causes of moisture accumulation and ways to fix the problem

Possible consequences

At first glance, such a minor problem can lead to serious consequences. It looks like the roof is sweating from the inside. At the same time, its service life is certainly reduced, and roofing becomes unusable.

The first thing that condensate is dangerous for is the formation of corrosion. It occurs due to prolonged exposure to water on the metal, which is damaged. In this case, the formation of rust is inevitable. Accordingly, there is a risk of leakage and holes in the coating, as a result of which the material will wear out faster and eventually become unusable.

For thermal insulation of the house, a heater is used. In the climatic conditions of a significant part of our country, this becomes a necessity. Moisture droplets, when they get on the material, increase thermal conductivity, and this leads to a decrease in its efficiency. Even when dried, the properties of the insulation can no longer be restored, so the only way out is to completely replace it.

Another adverse effect is the increase in humidity in the room. This creates an unfavorable microclimate and can lead to health problems for its residents.

On the toilet bowl

An unpleasant effect causes the appearance condensation on the toilet bowl. The toilet seems dirty, out of order. Fogging could be caused by different factors, you also need to decide in different ways.

Here are some effective ways to get rid of condensation:

Check if the locking mechanism inside the tank is out of order. If the system is faulty, cold water constantly leaks into the toilet, and the water in the tank does not have time to heat up, cooling the walls of the tank. In this case, it is necessary to repair the fittings in accordance with the instructions of the toilet manufacturer.

Insulate the walls from the inside. To do this, you need to pick up a thin moisture-resistant insulation - foamed polyethylene and similar types. Remove the tank, remove all the insides, glue the parts prepared according to the templates from the heat-insulating material, coat the joints with sealant, and let dry. Install the fitting back into the tank, return it to its place.

Insert plastic insert. This is a simpler version of the previous solution. You need to purchase a container of a suitable size, make all the necessary holes, pick up rubber gaskets for tightness.You should get a system of two tanks, with a gap between them of about 2 mm.

Why does condensation form in the ventilation system?

• Due to improperly or insufficiently insulated air ducts.
• Due to improper operation of the ventilation system.
• Condensation may appear due to a violation of the tightness of the air duct.
• High indoor humidity levels can also cause condensation to form.

Condensation in the ventilation systemInset: Important: The main reason for the appearance of condensate is that the warm humid air that is inside the room, when it meets cold outdoor air, condenses and settles in the form of wet drops on the walls of the ventilation ducts. That is why problems usually occur during the off-season and the warm period of the year.

What is condensate?

Condensate is the product of the conversion of vapor into a liquid state. This phenomenon looks like an accumulation of water droplets on the surface. In the case of window fogging, liquid usually settles on the glass surface in a fairly large amount. Drops of water gradually collect and flow down, forming a puddle or wet spot on the windowsill.

Condensation always leads to excess moisture, which, in turn, can cause fungus and mold to grow on slopes or windowsills. Most often, windows in a private house or apartment leak in winter. The accumulation of liquid on the glass surface can be explained using such a concept in physics as the “dew point”.

The "dew point" is measured in degrees and reflects the temperature to which the air must be cooled so that the vapor begins to transform into a liquid.In the kitchen, when cooking, it is often possible to observe condensation on cold surfaces.

Why do windows fog up?

First of all, the microclimate in the room itself affects the formation of condensate on the windows. There are certain standards of temperature and humidity, which are often violated due to some factors. The optimum temperature in a residential area should be about 18-23 degrees Celsius with an air humidity of no more than 50%. In this case, it is necessary to organize good ventilation.

Ventilation in apartments is mainly represented by an exhaust hood in the bathroom and in the kitchen, but in other rooms it is most often not. In living rooms and on the balcony, the gaps between the window frame and the wall play the role of ventilation ducts. However, this mainly applies to old wooden windows, since metal-plastic structures are distinguished by excellent tightness.

The problem of fogged windows does not have a universal solution, since there are quite a few reasons for the occurrence of condensate. This problem can be caused by a number of factors.

• Poor ventilation in the room.
• High levels of humidity in the room, which in the first place can be caused by everyday activities. For example, in the kitchen, the humidity rises due to cooking. Some rooms may have clothes dryers. Wet clothes also affect the level of humidity in the room.
• glass type. Single-chamber double-glazed windows do not provide the proper level of thermal insulation, and it is not recommended to install them in residential premises.
• Temporary causes of condensation include repair work.After finishing, some time should pass for the microclimate to normalize in the room.

• Incorrect installation of the window structure.
• Factory defect of the window structure itself.
• Temperature regime in the room.
• The presence on the windowsill of a large number of indoor plants.

Manufacturing defects

The quality of plastic windows depends on the manufacturer. Not all designs perform their functions equally well. If condensation is found on the glass, it is necessary to inspect the window structure for defects.

Marriage can be expressed as follows:

• gaps in window sashes;
• deformed frame;
• glass cracks;
• poorly attached fittings.

In case of damage to the double-glazed window, it must be completely replaced. Covering cracks with an adhesive will only give a temporary effect and, in addition, will spoil the appearance of the glass. This defect is most often caused by improper transportation of the window structure, and the supply company is also responsible for it.

Houseplants

Some types of flowers that are intended for growing at home in pots release moisture abundantly into the air. In the presence of a large number of such plants on the windowsill, the effect of a greenhouse is created, which contributes to the formation of condensate. It is quite simple to check whether the flowers really cause the windows to fog up - you need to free the window sill for a while and move the pots to another place. If the condensate has disappeared, then it is not necessary to return the plants to their original place.

Windowsill

Too large and dense window sill can prevent good heating of the window structure. The heat from the heating radiator will simply not flow to the double-glazed window.Replacing the window sill or a few holes in it will help solve this problem. The heat from the batteries will eliminate excess moisture and prevent it from settling on the glass.

Curtains

Thick long curtains, like a large window sill, can block the spread of heat from radiators. This problem is especially relevant in winter. In this case, it is recommended to open the battery, and for this it is not necessary to completely abandon the curtains. It will be enough to replace them with a shorter version so that the space below the windows remains free and does not overlap with fabric.

Signs and causes of ventilation failure

When the ventilation system does not cope with its functions, problems arise. This affects the comfort of residents and can result in unpleasant health consequences.

The disturbed air exchange in the bathroom can be judged by the following signs:

• increased air humidity;
• settling of abundant condensate on the mirrors and walls of the bathroom;
• unpleasant musty odors;
• rust formation on metal surfaces;
• destruction of finishing materials and "swelling" of furniture coatings;
• the appearance of fungus and mold on the ceiling, walls and in the corners;
• the hood in the bathroom blows in the opposite direction;
• loud noise from air ducts.

Before troubleshooting, you need to find out the specific cause and understand exactly where intervention is required. There can be several reasons for ventilation failure. The main and most common is blockage of ventilation shafts. Also, problems with traction are caused by insufficient air flow.

Frequent "culprits" of the disturbed air flow are tight doors and high sills in the bathrooms.When using such structures, traction will be present only when the doors are open. Unpleasant odors and steam begin to accumulate in a closed room

This usually happens after the installation of sealed PVC windows with double-glazed windows and additional sealing circuits. They impede the flow of fresh air currents, significantly weakening the draft.

Malfunctions in the functioning of ventilation also occur due to damage or wear of the exhaust fan mechanisms, clogged filters in the grates, and corrosive processes. Such factors lead to a deterioration in air quality and increase the resistance of the channels.

Another reason for poor ventilation is repair or refurbishment of the neighbors' system.

There are several possible scenarios for the development of events:

• as a result of the modernization of the layout or the installation of additional equipment, the ventilation ducts are blocked;
• during repairs on the upper floor, the shaft is clogged with construction waste;
• the creation of a strong forced inflow from below provokes a reverse draft, preventing air circulation.

Although these actions by the neighbors are not deliberate, they are classified as administrative violations for which a fine is provided.

The appearance of the effect of reverse thrust can be facilitated not only by repairs in neighboring apartments, blockage of the air duct and excessive sealing of the premises. Of great importance is the correct design of the exhaust system at home, installation of channels and additional equipment

The operation of the exhaust ducts is negatively affected by significant deviations from the vertical of the air ducts, unsuccessful roof construction projects, high heat transfer rates of external walls, which can be reduced by insulation.

In addition, the deterioration of air exchange is often associated with the season. Ventilation works best during the cold season. In summer, due to almost the same temperature inside and outside, the so-called “air lock” is created in the room. With an increase in external temperature marks, natural thrust always weakens.

Consequences of unresolved condensate

In places where plumbing is installed, as a rule, air humidity is always increased. But if the indicators go beyond the critical level, then unpleasant consequences are possible for both pipes and living people.

Formation of mold and fungus. When condensation is constantly present on plastic pipes, water droplets flow down the walls and onto the floor. As a result, a favorable environment is formed for the development of pathogenic bacteria, which threatens the appearance of mold. In conditions of constant humidity, the fungus begins to multiply intensively and then it will be very difficult to get rid of it.

Property damage. Constant contact with water surely spoils all the things in the room. Metal pipes quickly rust, plastic pipes lose their consumer properties. Ceramic tiles may eventually fall off, and paint and putty may crack.

Flooding. Droplets on pipes do not evaporate by themselves. They often flow down the walls and get to the neighbors through micro-crevices, which can cause flooding of the apartment from below.In addition, water accumulating on pipes can fall on the floor and cause damage to the floor covering. The laminate will eventually swell, the linoleum will deteriorate and a fungus will form.

To avoid this, you need to know how to remove condensate from cold water pipes and fix the problem in time.

Methods for removing condensate

Eliminating condensate from indoor ventilation is a priority for residents, since high humidity in the premises is fraught with a violation of the microclimate.

Too humid air in a house or apartment leads to the formation of mold and fungi that are dangerous for people prone to respiratory diseases (allergic rhinitis, bronchial asthma).

The appearance of a specific smell in the rooms is another consequence of high humidity.

Condensation on pipes is undesirable in itself, because liquid contains aggressive components that adversely affect metal and concrete structures. Condensation can be dealt with in a variety of ways.

Ventilation duct insulation

This method is relevant for private low-rise buildings, where the owners have every right to intervene in the in-house engineering systems. To insulate air ducts that remove air from the premises from the kitchen, bathroom and living rooms, it may be necessary to temporarily dismantle wall partitions and other non-load-bearing structures in order to get to the ventilation ducts.

If this can be done, then it is better to use standard insulating materials for sealing and insulating ventilation ducts:

• mineral wool;
• foamed polyethylene;
• Styrofoam;
• polyurethane foam.

We recommend that you read: Instructions for connecting the toilet to the sewerage system

Depending on the shape of the pipelines and their location, you can use roll insulation, or polyurethane foam shell, which protects the round metal pipes of the air ducts.

When insulating air ducts, special attention should be paid to areas on the so-called. dew point - the section of the transition from the heated room to the attic and access to the roof

It is also necessary to pay attention to the tightness of the joints of the pipes.

The section of the pipe that goes outside from the warm room must be wrapped with insulation, the thickness of which should not be less than 100 mm. On the outer section of the duct - the head of the pipe - a deflector is required to improve draft and protect the duct from atmospheric moisture.

Condensate discharge

Sometimes the owners of the house do not have the opportunity, time and desire to intervene in the ventilation system and insulate the duct, and in other cases, the insulation does not give the desired result.

In such a situation, it is possible to reconstruct the ventilation system for the mechanical removal of moisture from the system. To do this, the duct pipe, which brings air from the premises to the street, is rotated in the opposite direction (by 90 degrees) after preliminary disassembly.

Having installed the pipe in a vertical position, another pipe is installed on top of it, leading to the roof. The section of pipe turned down will serve to drain condensate, which will simply drain out. If desired, a conical element can be put on the head of the lower pipe, which serves as a kind of crank.

Forced ventilation

If the ventilation system in the house is outdated, then the methods of dealing with condensate described above may not work. In this case, it is recommended to install a new supply ventilation in the house, having previously mothballed the old one.

We recommend that you read: Rules for removing blockages using a plumbing cable

A plug is placed on the air duct of the old system, and an exhaust fan is installed in the kitchen window or wall, providing forced circulation. The device will draw air from the room along with microscopic droplets of moisture.

For fresh air to enter the house, you can additionally install wall supply valves. They are usually cut into walls next to heating radiators so that the air masses coming from the street are heated and do not affect the temperature regime.

How and where to properly insulate ventilation ducts

It is necessary to isolate that segment of the ventilation duct where there is active contact between warm and cold air. When removing the ventilation pipe through the wall, the section leading to the deflector is subject to insulation. If the air duct passes through a cold attic space, then this area should be insulated.

The warming procedure itself is carried out as follows:

• the surface of the ventilation pipe is wiped dry. Then the galvanized channels are treated from the outside with an anti-corrosion compound. Plastic air ducts are not subject to corrosion, it is enough just to dry them;
• rolled or slab heat-insulating material is tightly wound around the problematic section of the duct and fastened with a bandage.The insulation in the form of a shell or a split pipe is put on the air duct so that the joints of the individual elements fit snugly against each other. All longitudinal and transverse joints are glued with reinforcing adhesive tape or foil tape;
• a metal casing is installed on top or a paint mesh is attached, followed by plastering the surface of the heat insulator.

Installation of thermal insulation with a frame device can be viewed on the video:

Thermal insulation of the house and sealing of windows and doors

Insulating the attic and walls, as well as sealing windows and exterior doors, will help keep your home warm and reduce heating costs. There is a small chance of condensation if the whole house is well heated. Therefore, you need:
• attic insulation;
• seal windows and exterior doors;

If you decide to seal the house, it is important:
• do not block the fixed fans;
• do not cover the vent hole completely, but leave a hole the size of two bricks and install a ventilation grill on it;
• do not close rooms where radiators or fuel stoves are installed (eg gas)

How often should air filters be changed for ventilation?

The service life of filters is individual, as a rule, depends on the location of the object, time of year and many other factors.

Recommended end resistance:

• for coarse filters is 260 Pa,
• for fine filters 460 Pa,
• for absolute cleaning filters - 610 Pa.

However, the most correct and rational approach to filter replacement is the scheduled replacement of filters. In this way, you exclude the possibility of dust being forced through the filter material.

In Moscow, we recommend changing filters according to the following schedule:

• panel and cassette coarse filters - 4-5 times a year;
• pocket filters 4-5 times a year;
• compact filters 2-3 times a year.

Installation of film waterproofing

Any competent "homemade" can cope with such work. Installing a new waterproofing film involves removing the old floor tiles and laying new ones, which is a difficult but most effective method of waterproofing a cement floor.

The floor can also be insulated by laying several layers of moisture resistant polyurethane on it, however it is very important that all leaks are first completely sealed with hydraulic cement. The third option is to apply a two-layer coating of rubberized bituminous mastic on the old surface, then make a sand-cement screed on this surface, which will raise the level of the floor by about 50 mm. Whichever method you choose, the waterproofing material must climb the adjoining walls so that it comes into contact with the film insulation, if any.

The problem of damp floors caused by rising water tables, which usually affect basements, is more serious and requires structural waterproofing or basement waterproofing, which should definitely be done by specialists.

Whichever method you choose, the waterproofing material must climb the adjoining walls so that it comes into contact with the film insulation, if any.The problem of wet floors caused by rising water tables that typically affect basements is more serious and requires structural waterproofing or basement waterproofing, which should definitely be done by professionals.

Installation of a waterproofing layer. The polymeric waterproofing layer is pumped into holes drilled in a line, spaced approximately 115 mm apart. After injection into the wall, the polymer components are layered on top of each other and create a continuous impermeable barrier. When the liquid dries, the drilled holes are sealed with mortar; then the plastered surface can be painted.