How to get rid of air congestion in the heating system

How to bleed air from a heating radiator with a Mayevsky tap

Such a device can be found on top of the battery, which is used in almost every modern home. No expensive tools are required to open the tap. There is no need to pre-block the entire riser, as well as wait until the coolant has completely cooled down.

Such manipulations are a waste of time, and the effectiveness of subsequent actions will be reduced, since the pressure indicator inside the system will decrease significantly.

Approximate course of action:

1. Under the selected battery, substitute a basin or any other container.

2. Place some rags on the air vent. After the liquid is absorbed, it will begin to drain smoothly.

3. Using the wrench, carefully and slowly unscrew the tap, holding onto the plastic handle. Hissing or whistling will indicate the release of air masses.

4. The water jet should begin to flow evenly. Thus, a cork from the air will be broken. This will take no more than 10 minutes. Specialists will drain up to two buckets of coolant.

5. Close the valve being used tightly.

You can see more about the process of air release in this way in the video:

Filling the heating circuit with coolant

For the heating system to work properly, it must be flushed and then refilled with water. Often it is at this stage that air seeps into the circuit. This is due to incorrect actions during the filling of the contour. In particular, air can be entrapped in too fast a flow of water, as mentioned earlier.

The scheme of the expansion tank of an open heating circuit allows you to get an idea of ​​​​the procedure for filling such a system with coolant after flushing

In addition, the correct filling of the circuit also contributes to the faster removal of that part of the air masses that are dissolved in the coolant. To begin with, it makes sense to consider an example of filling an open heating system, at the highest point of which an expansion tank is located.

Such a circuit should be filled with coolant, starting from its lowest part. For these purposes, a shut-off valve is installed in the system below, through which tap water is supplied to the system.

A properly arranged expansion tank has a special pipe that protects it from overflow.

A hose of such length should be put on this branch pipe so that its other end is brought to the site and is outside the house. Before filling the system, take care of the heating boiler. It is recommended to disconnect it from the system for this time so that the protective modules of this unit do not work.

After these preparatory measures are completed, you can start filling the contour. The tap at the bottom of the circuit, through which tap water enters, is opened so that the water fills the pipes very slowly.

The recommended flow rate during filling should be about three times less than the maximum possible. This means that the valve should not be turned off completely, but only one third of the pipe clearance.

Slow filling is continued until water flows through the overflow hose, which is brought out. After that, the water tap should be closed. Now you should go through the entire system and open the Mayevsky valve on each radiator to bleed the air.

Then you can reconnect the boiler to the heating system. These taps are also recommended to be opened very slowly. During the filling of the boiler with coolant, a hiss can be heard, which is emitted by the protective air vent valve.

This is normal. After that, you need to add water to the system again at the same slow pace. The expansion tank should be about 60-70% full.

After that, it is necessary to check the operation of the heating system. The boiler is turned on and the heating system is warmed up. Radiators and pipes are then examined to identify areas where there is no or insufficient heating.

Insufficient heating indicates the presence of air in the radiators, it is necessary to bleed it again through the Mayevsky taps. If the procedure for filling the heating circuit with coolant was successful, do not relax.

For at least another week, the operation of the system should be carefully monitored, the water level in the expansion tank should be monitored, and the condition of the pipes and radiators should be checked. This will allow you to quickly resolve the problems that have arisen.

In a similar way, closed-type systems are filled with coolant. Water should also be supplied to the system at a low speed through a special tap.

You can fill the heating system of a closed type with a working fluid (coolant) on your own

It is important to arm yourself with a manometer for this. But in such systems, pressure control is an important point.

When it reaches a level of two bars, turn off the water and bleed air from all radiators through Mayevsky's taps. In this case, the pressure in the system will begin to decrease. It is necessary to gradually add coolant to the circuit in order to maintain a pressure of two bar

But in such systems, pressure control is an important point. When it reaches a level of two bars, turn off the water and bleed air from all radiators through Mayevsky's taps. In this case, the pressure in the system will begin to decrease. It is necessary to gradually add coolant to the circuit in order to maintain a pressure of two bar.

It is difficult to perform both of these operations alone. Therefore, it is recommended that the filling of a closed circuit is carried out together with an assistant. While one bleeds air from the radiators, his partner monitors the level of pressure in the system and immediately corrects it. Joint work will improve the quality of this type of work and reduce their time.

Causes of Air in Batteries

Low quality aluminum heatsinks are often the cause of these problems due to the metal from which the batteries are made reacting with the various chemicals in the water inside. Running water in the heating system is enriched with impurities, a reaction with the metal, leading to the appearance of bubbles, will definitely occur.

Installation in the system of heating batteries of inadequate quality. This is done to reduce the cost of repairs or construction.

Repair work can also cause air blockages in the pipes. In this case, it is recommended to call a specialist to bleed the air, because you need to accurately determine the location of the air jam, due to which the batteries have cooled down.

The water itself, which is in motion through the heating system, contains gases of various densities. In a closed system, they cannot evaporate, creating bubbles inside the battery. To avoid problems in this case, it is recommended to install a filter element.

Barrier valves made of low-quality materials will also be one of the causes of traffic jams in a heating system made of plastic pipes.

The sequence of preventive measures depends on the type of heating system.

open circuit

A system of this type is filled with hot water on its own. All valves on the radiators must be open, allowing unhindered water access. It is necessary to monitor the pressure force and not to allow too strong and rapid filling. Close the drain valve when the battery space is full.

The steps for filling this type of system differ from the standards. First of all, the valves close. Only the one through which water is poured into the system is left open. Then the pump is connected to ensure stable pressure in the pipes. Air from the batteries is released using taps only after filling the entire system with water.

You see, if you follow the rules and carry out prevention, it is quite possible to minimize the likelihood of air jams in the heating system, which reduce the temperature regime in the apartment.

Residents of high-rise buildings had to deal with an unpleasant situation when heat does not reach them on the top floors when the heating season starts. There are several reasons for the occurrence of airing:

• repair work, for example, dismantling of the pipeline;
• during installation, the direction of the slope, the dimensions of the pipeline lines were not observed;
• low pressure;
• error when filling the heating system;
• poor sealing of joints - coolant leaks through them;
• connection to underfloor heating;
• malfunctioning air intake devices.

Air release without Mayevsky crane

Most home heating batteries have a special device that helps to simplify the task of bleeding air as much as possible - a Mayevsky tap or an automatic valve.

But the question is: what to do if there is simply no such device on the battery? If you have just such a picture before your eyes, most likely, cast-iron batteries are installed in your house. On such batteries, quite often a simple plug is installed, which was twisted on a tow covered with paint. In addition, it was also covered with a layer of paint during the painting of heating batteries.

Mayevsky crane

It is difficult to remove it in order to gain access to the coolant located in the system. For this reason, the simplest way out of the situation can be considered an appeal to the neighbors from the last floor of the house (they will probably have a Mayevsky crane on the battery). But if the neighbors, for example, have left or you yourself are a tenant of the top floor and there is no tap? In this case, you will have to resort to the "grandfather" method of bleeding air from the heating system.

So, you need to stock up on a basin, a bucket and a lot of rags. In addition (you can’t take this “barrier” with your bare hands), you will need an adjustable wrench to unscrew the cork and some kind of paint thinner. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to move the plug from the "dead" point.

So, first apply a solvent to the place where the plug is installed and wait 15 minutes. After that, gently start moving the adjustable wrench along the thread until the plug starts to feed. You will hear air begin to bleed. When the sound subsides (a sign of lack of air), be sure to wrap a layer of “fumka” around the plug and insert it into place. If desired, you can slightly paint over the junction of the plug with the battery.

Advice.Before starting work, it is advisable to close the riser for safe operation, otherwise, with a sharp enough jerk, you will completely unscrew the plug and the water from the battery cannot be stopped.

You have learned how quickly and quite simply you can cope with the task of venting air from a heating radiator in the absence of a Mayevsky crane. Good luck!

Automatic air vent

Float, fully automated. Several installation options. On the side of the radiator horizontally or vertically. Without human intervention, it reacts to the total amount of water in the heating system and automatically releases it through the valve in the event of accumulation of air. If the water level in the radiator drops, the float will automatically open a valve that will release the plug. Such a device is very convenient, it will help you eliminate the occurrence of emergencies if, for example, you are not at home for a long time.

It has one minus - it is sensitive to the chemical elements of water in the coolant. Due to the impurities that make up the water, it quickly becomes unusable. Breakage can be prevented by installing water filter elements and a preventive check and replacement of the seal ring.

The installation of this automated system is suitable for use in the private sector, it does not require restarting the system, filling the batteries. Proper use and preventive measures will increase the service life.

How to bleed air from a heating radiator: 8 practical tips to combat system airing

This article is about how to remove air from the heating system and how to prevent it from re-airing.In it, I will talk about solutions for different heating schemes and different skill levels of the reader, about the causes of air locks and the prevention of their formation.

Bleeding air when starting heating.

Top filling, access level - administrator

1. How to expel an air lock from the heating system of a house with top filling?

A feature of this system is the bottling of the feed placed in the attic of the house with the return line located in the basement. Each riser is turned off at two points - above and below; all risers are equal and have the same temperature on the same floor.

Heating scheme with top filling.

When the circuit is started, air is forced out of the heating battery and further from the riser to the supply filling, and then to the closed expansion tank located at its upper point. Having opened the house valves, you must go up to the attic and slightly open the tap at the top of the tank for a while. After the air is displaced by the coolant, circulation in all risers will be restored.

At the top right is a closed expansion tank with an air release valve.

If you are far from the secrets of valves and gate valves, just apply to the service company. In the house of the upper bottling, you will not be able to bleed the air from the battery yourself, but it is easy to fill the residents of the upper floor from the attic.

Private house, access level - administrator

1. What to do in a private house if the heating circuit or part of it does not start?

The bad news is that there are no universal recipes: the heating circuit of a private house is always designed individually.

The good thing is that designers are guided by the same principles:

With forced circulation, automatic air vents in the heating system are mounted near the circulation pump (usually in front of it in the direction of the coolant). The air vent can also be installed in the boiler body. If there is air in the circuit, it is possible that the air valve is simply clogged with debris or scale;

Boiler safety group. In the center is an automatic air vent.

An air release valve is installed on individual heaters only if they are located above the filling. If the filling takes place under the ceiling or in the attic - look for an air valve for heating in its upper part;

The radiator is located below the filling. The air will be pushed up.

Each bracket (filling bend in the vertical plane) is also always supplied with an air vent. If for some reason they are not there, you can try to overtake the bottling for discharge using one of the methods described above.

The reason for the lack of circulation is often not air, but a fully or partially closed throttle on one of the heaters or sections of the circuit.

In the photo - the throttle on the radiator hose. If it is covered, the battery will be cold.

Safety

1. What can not be done by bleeding air?

Human imagination is truly limitless, so I will cite only repeated cases from my practice.

Of course, from the repertoire of apartment residents: plumbers have their own quirks.

• Do not completely unscrew the rod from the air vent. Under the pressure of hot water, it cannot be wrapped back;
• Do not try to unscrew the faucet body itself. Even half a turn. If the thread is torn off, flooding of the apartment will become inevitable;

It is safe to unscrew the air vent only when the riser is dropped.

An even worse idea would be to partially unscrew any of the radiator plugs to bleed air. There were precedents. In the last case known to me, 6 floors were flooded with boiling water.

Very, very unreasonable.

Prevention

1. Is it possible to modify the heating system with my own hands so as not to encounter the problem of airing?

If you live on the top floor or in a private house, you can.

The recipe is extremely simple:

In an autonomous circuit, connect the heating devices according to the "bottom down" scheme. Even if air accumulates inside the radiator, it will not affect the circulation of water through the lower manifold. In this case, the battery will be hot throughout its volume due to its own thermal conductivity;

With this connection scheme, even an air-filled battery will be hot.

Install automatic air vents at the top of the riser or the entire circuit. They rarely require maintenance and bleed air jams without your participation.

An automatic air vent may well replace the Mayevsky faucet on any battery.

Conclusion

As you can see, all the problems of airing heating are completely solvable. You can learn more about possible solutions from the video in this article. I look forward to your additions and comments. Good luck, comrades!

How to bleed air from the battery if there is no Mayevsky crane

Most often, there are no problems with the heating system in the house. But sometimes suddenly the house becomes cold or there are strange sounds in the heating radiator. What could it be? Unfortunately, in this case, there is air in the heating system, which means that it is necessary to bleed air from there. Today you will learn how to do it without a Mayevsky crane.

Airiness in the battery: what is it and how to determine

What is airiness in a heating battery? This concept refers to the accumulation of air, most often in the upper part of the heating radiator. This situation becomes a problem and quite common for those who live in high-rise buildings on one of the last floors. There can be several reasons for such a problem:

• Carrying out repair work on the site / on neighboring floors. In the event that work was carried out with heating pipes in a residential square, there is a high probability of a small air flow entering the system.
• There was a coolant leak in one of the sections (which means that an immediate check of the system is required to eliminate the leak).
• Feature of the underfloor heating system. The problem of airiness of the system is indeed a frequent picture in the presence of a warm floor system, especially if it has a complex circuit and many branches.

• High-temperature water contains air, and the more often the coolant is updated in the system, the higher the likelihood of a malfunction.
• If the appearance of an air "lock" in time coincides with the start-up of a common heating main, it is more likely that it was the start-up of the system that caused the airiness.

Advice. If you live in a private house, then, in principle, you should not worry too much about the airiness of the system (if it is small). The fact is that in private heating systems, most often the coolant changes very rarely, which means that the air must be bled off on its own within a few days.

Determining the presence of an air "plug" is quite simple.For example, if the temperature of the water in the battery drops sharply or the battery becomes only partially cold, it may even begin to gurgle - all this is a sign of airiness.

Air release without Mayevsky crane

Most home heating batteries have a special device that helps to simplify the task of bleeding air as much as possible - a Mayevsky tap or an automatic valve.

But the question is: what to do if there is simply no such device on the battery? If you have just such a picture before your eyes, most likely, cast-iron batteries are installed in your house. On such batteries, quite often a simple plug is installed, which was twisted on a tow covered with paint. In addition, it was also covered with a layer of paint during the painting of heating batteries.

It is difficult to remove it in order to gain access to the coolant located in the system. For this reason, the simplest way out of the situation can be considered an appeal to the neighbors from the last floor of the house (they will probably have a Mayevsky crane on the battery). But if the neighbors, for example, have left or you yourself are a tenant of the top floor and there is no tap? In this case, you will have to resort to the "grandfather" method of bleeding air from the heating system.

So, you need to stock up on a basin, a bucket and a lot of rags. In addition (you can’t take this “barrier” with your bare hands), you will need an adjustable wrench to unscrew the cork and some kind of paint thinner. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to move the plug from the "dead" point.

So, first apply a solvent to the place where the plug is installed and wait 15 minutes. After that, gently start moving the adjustable wrench along the thread until the plug starts to feed. You will hear air begin to bleed. When the sound subsides (a sign of lack of air), be sure to wrap a layer of “fumka” around the plug and insert it into place. If desired, you can slightly paint over the junction of the plug with the battery.

You have learned how quickly and quite simply you can cope with the task of venting air from a heating radiator in the absence of a Mayevsky crane. Good luck!

Scenario 2: apartment building, top filling

What is a top-bottling house?

Heating scheme with top filling.

Here are its signs:

• The supply filling is located in the technical attic, the return filling is in the basement or underground;
• Each riser is a jumper between them and is turned off in two places - from below and from above;
• The feed bottling is laid with a slight slope;
• At the top point of the supply filling there is an expansion tank with a vent. Often, the discharge is led through all floors to the basement, to the elevator unit or as close as possible to it.

Expansion tank with screw valve as a relief valve.

Where are the air vents located in the top filling heating system?

The function of the air vents is performed by the same bleeder on the expansion tank. The output of the discharge to the basement simplifies the start of heating at the beginning of the season, but even without it, it is not difficult.

Solution 4: Expansion tank bleeder

Here is the instruction for bringing the top filling system into working condition:

1. Slowly (to avoid water hammer) fill the heating system by slightly opening the house valve (between the elevator unit and the heating circuit) on the supply or return;
2. When the heating system is full, fully open the second valve;

The valve is fully open, the stem is extended.

1. After 5-10 minutes, open the vent on the expansion tank and wait until water comes out of it instead of air.

Where does the air in the system come from

Practice shows that it is impossible to ideally isolate the water heating network from the external environment. Air penetrates into the coolant in various ways and gradually accumulates in certain places - the upper corners of the batteries, the turns of the highways and the highest points. By the way, the latter should be equipped with automatic drain valves shown in the photo (air vents).

Varieties of automatic air vents

Air enters the heating system in the following ways:

1. Along with water. It's no secret that most homeowners replenish the lack of coolant directly from the water supply. And from there comes water saturated with dissolved oxygen.
2. As a result of chemical reactions. Again, not properly demineralized water reacts with the metal and aluminum alloy of the radiators, releasing oxygen.
3. The pipeline network of a private house was originally designed or installed with errors - there are no slopes and loops are made, facing upwards and not equipped with automatic valves. It is difficult to expel air accumulations from such places even at the stage of refueling with coolant.
4. A small fraction of oxygen penetrates through the walls of plastic pipes, despite the special layer (oxygen barrier).
5. As a result of repair with dismantling of pipeline fittings and partial or complete draining of water.
6. When microcracks appear in the rubber membrane of the expansion tank.

When cracks occur in the membrane, the gas mixes with water.

Also, a situation often arises when, after a long downtime in the off-season, the pressure in a closed heating system decreases due to air ingress. Lowering it is quite simple: you just need to add a couple of liters of water. A similar effect also happens in open-type systems, if you stop the boiler and the circulation pump, wait a couple of days and restart the heating. As the liquid cools, it contracts, allowing air to enter the lines.

As for the centralized heating systems of apartment buildings, air enters them exclusively together with the coolant or at the time the network is filled at the beginning of the season. How to deal with it - read below.

The thermogram shows the area of ​​the heater where the air bubble usually lingers

If there is no valve: how to air a "deaf" battery

In the old heating systems with cast-iron batteries, Mayevsky taps were not provided, airing was carried out by gravity or by unscrewing the radiator cap.

To bleed the battery, you will need:

• Adjustable plumbing wrench.
• Basin.
• Rags.

We clean the upper end of the battery from paint, put a rag moistened with a penetrating lubricant (WD-40, kerosene, brake fluid) on the joint. After a few hours, we try to unscrew the cork.

Reference! The carving can be both left, and right! Apply alternately efforts in one direction, then in the other direction alternately. Watch, when moving in which direction, the plug begins to move away from the battery.

As soon as you hear the movement of air, stop unscrewing the cork.

We substitute a basin and cover the cork with rags - along with the air, coolant splashes will certainly break through.

As soon as the hissing stops, we wind the tow or fum-tape under the cork and wrap it in place.

If possible, to facilitate repeated airing, we replace the blind plug with the same one, only with the Mayevsky crane installed. To do this, you will have to isolate the battery from the heating, drain the water from it.

Important! In no case should you try to replace the plug on the battery under pressure - the flow of hot water will not make it possible to tighten the thread. In a private house, airing should always be accompanied by control of the amount of coolant, and if it is not enough, add

In open expansion tanks, the liquid must be at least half of the tank, in closed expansion tanks, the pressure is pumped up to 2 atmospheres

In a private house, airing should always be accompanied by control of the amount of coolant, and if it is not enough, top up. In open expansion tanks, there should be at least half of the tank of liquid, in closed ones - pressure up to 2 atmospheres is pumped up.

Safety

1. What can not be done by bleeding air?

Human imagination is truly limitless, so I will cite only repeated cases from my practice.

Of course, from the repertoire of apartment residents: plumbers have their own quirks.

• Do not completely unscrew the rod from the air vent. Under the pressure of hot water, it cannot be wrapped back;
• Do not try to unscrew the faucet body itself. Even half a turn. If the thread is torn off, flooding of the apartment will become inevitable;

It is safe to unscrew the air vent only when the riser is dropped.

An even worse idea would be to partially unscrew any of the radiator plugs to bleed air. There were precedents. In the last case known to me, 6 floors were flooded with boiling water.

Very, very unreasonable.