How to move the toilet from the riser when combining a bath with a toilet?

Transfer technical features

The second most popular option is the transfer of the toilet and bathroom from the riser to the side without additional redevelopment.

In this case no approval is required.

But there are technological nuances that you need to pay attention to.

An increase in the length of the sewer pipe can provoke the formation of air jams and blockages. According to SNiP standards, the distance between the drain device and the sewer outlet should not exceed 1.5 meters.

If there is a direct outlet, the socket is mounted flush with the floor.

The outlet of the toilet drain pipe must be located at an angle of at least 45 degrees with respect to the wall.

It is necessary to provide a mandatory clone of pipe fittings.A pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is laid in relation to the floor with a slope of 1.2 - 2 cm. Understating the indicator will lead to emergency situations. To comply with the standard, the toilet will have to be raised. In this case, the height level must correspond to the angle of inclination.

The pipe connecting the plumbing fixture and the riser should not have bends of more than 45 degrees. 90 degree corners are not allowed.

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About the possibility of redevelopment of the bathroom and toilet

Is it possible to redevelop the bathroom and the bathroom?

In this matter, there are a lot of difficulties and requirements of sanitary standards, but in principle, redrawing the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe apartment in order to expand the latrine is quite possible.

It is unreasonable to combine a restroom with a bathroom, unless there are two such rooms in the apartment, and no more than two tenants, since the combination reduces the degree of comfort in using the dwelling, although this topic concerns only the owners themselves and their households.

Living in an apartment building imposes severe restrictions on the redevelopment of the bathroom, the main of which is the location of this important room strictly vertically, that is, floor by floor, one riser, strictly one above the other, in order to avoid soaking the downstream kitchen, bedroom, living room with sewage. The presence in the family of a disabled person in a wheelchair will require compliance with special standards for the area of ​​\u200b\u200blatrine.

The presence in the family of a disabled person in a wheelchair will require compliance with special standards for the area of ​​\u200b\u200blatrine.

Read on our website about the risks when buying or selling an apartment with redevelopment.

How to choose a corner toilet

As with buying a regular version, when choosing a toilet with a corner cistern, you need to know what you should pay attention to:

When buying a similar toilet with a drain tank, you should pay attention to the tank mounting. It can be located in different ways: at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees

This is a rather important point, as it affects the appearance, functionality, as well as compatibility with the way you have installed the toilet itself.
Pay attention to the way you connect to communications. For example, the cold water inlet can be located on the back or side of the cistern. Various options will help you realize your idea and connect everything the way you want.
Design. The toilet bowl should be not only functional, but also harmoniously combined with the bathroom. In addition, there are models of different shapes and sizes, as well as in different colors.
The size. Choosing the right size is quite important. Firstly, it is necessary to choose the optimal size for the available free space, since too large a toilet will simply interfere. Secondly, the size should match the bathroom and sink. Too small a model will look extremely out of place. Thirdly, do not forget about the comfort of use. You should be comfortable using the toilet.
Material. There are quite a lot of materials currently on offer. Of course, faience is considered the most familiar, but more unusual warrants, for example, made of glass or aluminum, will help bring any design decisions to life and significantly diversify the room.
Manufacturer. In this case, we will talk about the quality of products. Products from Italy and Germany are considered the best.Actually, they will be the most expensive. But cheaper Chinese models can be of poor quality and fail quite quickly.
Additional functions. The main function of the toilet is already known to everyone. However, it can be supplemented with quite interesting solutions. For example, lighting that will help diversify the room. It can even be two in one, namely a toilet plus a bidet.
Price. Corner toilets are still more expensive than conventional options. This should be taken into account, since two options for the same price, for example, for 6 thousand rubles, will turn out to be of completely different quality. So when choosing, make sure that the space saved as a result will be worth the extra cost.

A corner toilet is quite a practical solution that will not only save space in small bathrooms, but also allow you to use interesting design solutions. It is also worth remembering that the corner option is a little more difficult to pick up, connect to communications, and it costs a little more.

In order to move the toilet, you should use options such as:

1. Transfer of plumbing equipment for a short distance - 10-20 centimeters.

2. Transfer of plumbing equipment over a considerable distance. In the event that the distance over which the toilet bowl is transferred exceeds the length of the corrugation, it is necessary to remake the sewer.

We move the toilet

simple case

The toilet is unfolded or transferred to a small distance, about a dozen or two centimeters.

Dismantling

Dismantling the toilet is highly dependent on the installation method.

If the toilet was mounted on standard fasteners, and its outlet is connected to the sewer with a standard rubber cuff - everything is simple:

1. Unscrew the screws securing the toilet to the floor;
2. Pulling the toilet toward you strictly along the axis of the socket of the sewer pipe, pull out the toilet outlet from it.

In this case, it is not even necessary to shut off the water to the tank.

If the toilet is planted on glue or cement, and its outlet is smeared with the same cement in a cast-iron pipe, you will have to tinker:

Armed with a strong screwdriver or a narrow chisel, carefully remove the putty from the space between sewer socket and toilet outlet. Be very careful: an unsuccessful move - and you have to go for a new toilet

We have to carefully remove this putty, without splitting the issue.

When the release is released, we will need to loosen the toilet on the floor

A wide chisel is carefully, with little effort, driven in turn from different sides under the base of the toilet bowl. Sooner or later it will sway, announcing that the deed is done

Then, again, we feed the toilet towards ourselves, pulling out its outlet from the sewer socket strictly along its axis. If it gets stuck, don't pull harder, but rock the toilet slightly from side to side. Of course, before that it is better to turn off the water on the tank and drain the water.

Installation at a new location

Since the distance to the sewerage and water pipes will be small, we will not need to alter the sewer system or build up the water pipe.

If the old flexible eyeliner is in good condition, we will not touch it. If it leaks or has insufficient length - just change it to an analogue. The operation is simple and, I think, does not require a separate description.

We will connect the toilet with the sewer with a corrugation.This corrugated pipe, in general, has rubber seals on both sides; but it's a good idea to stock up on sewer pipe silicone sealant.

In addition, you will need a set of fasteners for the toilet.

This is what the whole set will look like.

1. Clean the toilet outlet and drain socket of debris and wipe dry.
2. Mark new holes in the floor for the toilet mounts and drill them. If there is a tile on top, first pass it with a drill through a tile of a slightly larger diameter.
3. Put the corrugation on the toilet outlet, after applying the sealant.
4. Pull the toilet to the floor. He needs to stop staggering, nothing more. Cover the gaps between the base and the tile with cement mortar - this will prevent the lateral force from splitting the base of the toilet bowl, creating additional support for it.
5. Insert the corrugation into the socket - again on the sealant.
6. Enjoy.

As you can see, the result is quite satisfactory. Only the seat is slanted

Difficult case

We have already agreed that within a small room it is easier to connect water with a long flexible eyeliner. The transfer of the toilet bowl to a distance exceeding the length of the corrugation will be accompanied by an alteration of the sewer.

Dismantling and installation will be the same; in order to increase the sewerage, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is used. The length and selection of corners depend only on the new position of the toilet.

The assembly of plastic sewerage is extremely simple. It is attached to the wall with clamps or laid directly on the floor.

As always, there are a few subtleties.

You will probably have to remove the outlet to the toilet from the tee or cross in order to lower the sewer to the floor level.With plastic, this will not cause problems; in the case of cast iron, it is better to preheat the next socket with a blowtorch or gas burner. In this case, the sealant-bond will burn out and the cement putty will crack. Further extraction of the pipe from the socket is a simple matter. It is better to mount the sewer directly from the riser. The tee was wrapped in a bag to get rid of odors.

• To insert a plastic pipe into a cast-iron socket - use a cuff - sealant. It is better to put it on a silicone sealant, first of all, well lubricating its joint with a cast-iron pipe.
• A slope towards the riser is required, but small: 1-2 cm per linear meter of pipe.
• If the joints of cast-iron pipes are filled with sulfur, they are also annealed with a blowtorch, but the smell will be monstrous. Ventilation of the room and a gas mask are required.
• Instead of accurately fitting the plastic sewer to the toilet outlet, you can also use corrugation. There is only one condition: it must be available for replacement. If this is not possible, it is better to do without it.

With modern materials, this option will not create problems either.

Is it possible to move the toilet in the apartment to another place?

everything is possible, you just need to take it seriously and find out everything. Of course, you can put the toilet in the middle of the room and enjoy life, but if you do the sewerage and drains incorrectly, then soon the whole room will be in.

Very important! For each meter of outlet there should be a rise of about 3-4 cm, otherwise the contents of the toilet simply will not go away, etc. Thus, if you move the toilet 2 meters, then at the base of the toilet, the connection height should be 7 cm, if 3 meters, then about 10 cm

Can you afford such a rise? After all, to do this, you need to either put the toilet on a pedestal, or raise the floor

Not everything is so simple, from a technical point of view, you can move the toilet anywhere, even into the living room, bring water without problems, but the slope of the pipes cannot be sustained for a length of more than 5 meters, the toilet will simply be “under the ceiling”, there is a way out forced sewage.

Technically, everything is solved, the problem is different.

Bathrooms cannot be made above the kitchens and above the living quarters of the neighbors below.

This is the first point that sharply limits the concept of “to another place”.

From other places, the actual bathroom itself remains inside which you can move the toilet bowl anywhere and the corridor.

The toilet in the hallway is certainly fun, but not very convenient.

There are exceptions, if you live on the first floor and there are no living or utility rooms under you (workshops in the basement, gyms, etc.), then you can move it wherever you want.

Or if you are the owner of a duplex apartment.

In this case, your toilet bowl, above your own kitchen, may well be installed.

You can move the toilet and nothing, and no one will stop you from doing it, but besides putting it in a convenient desired place, you need to connect it to the water supply (this is not such a big problem) and the sewage system is already more difficult here!

Plumbing is an easy problem to solve, soldering plastic or putting a longer supply hose is not difficult, but you can’t accelerate much with sewage, there should be a central riser nearby, since laying a 100 mm pipe or corrugation is too far from aesthetically pleasing, and is fraught with blockages.

Therefore, a riser is needed, in apartments they often have bathrooms and closets, and even happen in corridors and kitchens, respectively, all adjoining rooms will be in the access zone to them.

You need to decide, connect and equip a suitable room - that's all, if you are afraid of problems with the housing, do not be afraid, but do not tell everyone on every corner, otherwise you will have to register the redevelopment!

Features and nuances

In each version of the redevelopment of the bathroom and the bathroom, there are pluses and minuses, and special points that you should pay attention to. Through the corridor

This kind of alteration of the dwelling, with all the advantages, can be upsetting: some inconvenience may appear when extending the pipelines. This is due to the need to comply with the regulatory slope, which ensures the gravity flow of drains into the sewer riser, which can be prevented by doorways.

Through the corridor. This kind of alteration of the dwelling, with all the advantages, can be upsetting: some inconvenience may appear when extending the pipelines. This is due to the need to comply with the regulatory slope, which ensures the gravity flow of drains into the sewer riser, which can be prevented by doorways.

Installing a pump that pumps wastewater will help to avoid crossing doorways with pipelines.

Through the living room. Even when this is permissible, one must remember about ventilation: it is impossible to close existing channels, and it is problematic to arrange new ones.

When visiting the representative's house lived. inspections, the factor of unresolved ventilation of a wet room can put an end to it and become a reason for refusal.

Redevelopment of a bathroom is a complex issue, the solution of which will require changes in ventilation, water supply, and sewerage systems.

It is not recommended to start such work without obtaining permission, since in case of a categorical refusal it will be necessary to restore the original state of the apartment.

You can learn how not to make a mistake when redeveloping the bathroom and toilet from the video:

Sewerage

This system is necessary for the disposal of wastewater from the apartment. At the heart of its functioning is gravity: water flows down the pipe.

However, in order to "force" the used water to move in the required direction, you need to raise one end of the pipe and lower the other, creating a slope.

As in the water supply system, there is a central sewer pipe in the houses, into which drains fall at an angle.

It should be noted that the point of entry of the internal sewerage system of the apartment into the common sewer riser (the so-called lower edge of the pipe) was already initially set during the construction of the house and, as a rule, cannot be changed.

As a rule, this point is located a few centimeters above the floor slab and, after screeding and laying floor coverings, is 1-2 cm below the level of the finished floor. It follows from this that if the lower point always remains fixed, when the plumbing equipment is displaced, it is necessary to raise the opposite end of the pipe to the height necessary to arrange a normal drain. Let's consider this process in more detail.

How to move the toilet: complex and simple ways

Optimizing bathroom space requires moving equipment.Within the rules and without harsh consequences, it can be moved to a different distance (within one and a half meters) and rotated. Depending on the range of transfer, a simple and complex method is distinguished.

The easy way

It involves moving the toilet to the side for a small distance - 15 - 20 cm

To do this, carefully dismantle the old device. Since, if it is planted on glue or mortar, and the outlet neck is smeared with cement, one careless movement can cause cracks on the toilet

Therefore, turning off the water, carefully and carefully:

we clean the space between the socket and the outlet from the layer of putty with a narrow chisel and a strong screwdriver;
with a little effort, we try to loosen the toilet

For which you may need the help of a wide chisel - it must be carefully hammered in different places under the base of the bowl. We loosen until the equipment begins to swing freely;
raise the toilet

Grabbing the rim of the bowl of the device with our hands, we first direct the efforts towards ourselves, and then also carefully, along the axis of the sewer pipe, we try to remove the outlet socket from it. If the device is stuck, you should not make great efforts, you can break the toilet. It is better to return to the second paragraph of the instruction, and swing the device again.

If your device is installed on standard fasteners and connected to the pipe by means of a rubber cuff, you are very lucky. Since in order to dismantle it, it is enough to unscrew the standard fasteners to the floor and remove the outlet by pulling the device towards you and turning it along the axis of the pipe.

After dismantling the device, you can begin to prepare for its installation in a new location.We examine the existing flexible supply for integrity, if necessary, change it to a new corrugation. The design of the corrugation assumes the presence of sealing rubber rings at both ends. But in order to avoid the possibility of leaks, you should still use silicone sealant. You should also take care of special fasteners, they are steel and equipped with plastic washers. Then we proceed to install the device:

mark with a pencil the attachment points on the floor. We drill holes: if the floor is concrete, we use a drill with a pobedite coating, if it is a tile, we take a special drill of a larger diameter than the fasteners;
we clean the toilet outlet and the socket from dirt, the old layer of cement, dust and other layers, wipe them dry;
we apply silicone sealant on one side of the corrugation to the sealing ring, and pull it onto the toilet bowl socket;
install and fix the device using prepared screws with plastic washers

Tighten carefully;
to create additional support, we coat the gaps formed between the floor and the base with cement;
at the end of the installation, we lubricate the sealing ring on the other side of the corrugation with a sealant, and insert the corrugation into the socket of the sewer pipe.

A difficult option, or how to move the toilet from the riser by 30 centimeters or more

If, according to the design project, it is required to move the toilet bowl to a greater distance than the length of the corrugation allows, then you will have to remake the sewer. Dismantling and subsequent installation is carried out according to the same scheme as in the first option. The differences are in the need to increase the sewer pipeline. Most often, pipes of 110 mm are taken for this event.The length and number of elements, as well as the configuration of the fittings, directly depends on the new location of the plumbing fixture. Laying of plastic pipes is carried out either on the floor, or they are mounted to the wall using special clamps.

Transfer Rules

In order for the sewer system to function efficiently after the conversion of standard plumbing paths, several important points must be considered.

As for the height to which it is necessary to raise the upper edge of the pipe, one should be guided by such engineering calculations: for each meter of the removal of the drain hole from the sewer riser, it is necessary to raise the end of the pipe by 3 cm (for pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm) or 2 cm (for pipes with a diameter of 85-100 mm)

Why is it so important to observe the angle of inclination? In addition to creating a natural flow of water, there is another important point. Waste water is contaminated with waste products, small food residues, etc.

Over time, these contaminants settle on the walls of the sewers, reducing their diameter and making it difficult for the normal passage of water through them. Compliance with the optimal angle of inclination "forces" the water to move through the pipes at a certain speed, due to which blockages are washed out from the walls and do not accumulate - thus, self-cleaning of sewer pipes is ensured.
In relatively small bathrooms, the configuration of sewer pipes can be forcedly complex. It is important to remember that for normal operation of the devices, it is necessary that they are connected to the line at an angle of 45 ° (135 °), and not at a right angle, which will easily provoke clogging.At the turning points, it is necessary to provide for the so-called cleaning - special components that will allow you to clean the sewer in case of blockage in a separate area or throughout the highway.
It is very convenient to install additional shut-off valves for each device separately, except for those that shut off the water in the entire apartment as a whole. This will allow you to freely use plumbing in the event of a breakdown of one of the devices.

Modern solution

An alternative to the traditional method of arranging sewerage using pipes are special devices that allow you to drain water in the right direction, regardless of the slope, at a distance of 3 to 50 m. These are miniature electric pumps that can be built into furniture and serve one or more devices.

What is the principle of their work? A sewage pump equipped with a grinder is connected to the drain of a plumbing fixture. Waste water with impurities passes through the grinder, and then enters a tank with a pump that feeds it under pressure into a small diameter pipe.

This pressure is enough to supply water to a height of several meters and deliver it over a considerable distance through many bends. That is, such a sewage system is arranged according to the principle of water supply, working with the help of excess pressure.

Thanks to such a device for plumbing fixtures, pipes of small diameter can be used, which, in turn, allows you to lay communications in any of the surfaces that enclose the room - both in the thickness of the floor and under the ceiling.

Such a pump, in fact, is the only solution in cases where sanitary facilities are installed far from the riser and water cannot be discharged into the sewer by gravity.However, it is worth noting that the pump needs to be connected to the mains, so if there is no electricity in the apartment, it will be impossible to use plumbing.

What laws govern?

Since the sanitary block is a room with “wet” processes, the redevelopment is tightened by restrictions that are taken into account by such legislative acts:

• Federal Law No. 210-FZ of July 27, 2010;
• LC RF, art. 26;
• clause 3.8. SaNPiN2.1.2.2645-10;
• clause 9.22 of SP 54.13330.2011.

You should not perceive the requirements of specialists coordinating any redrawing of an apartment as obstacles sucked from the finger: in legislative acts you can find the answer to what is acceptable and what is not, especially if the building is an apartment building.

Samples of a power of attorney and a contract for the performance of work, as well as all acts of redevelopment, you can download from us for free.

Devices for forced disposal of waste

This is a system designed to work when traditional gravity-fed construction fails. For its arrangement, a device called a fecal pump or sololift is used. The equipment is quite compactly located inside the tank or behind it. It is a pump equipped with special chopper blades. It pumps out effluents, grinds solid impurities, and sends the resulting mass to where it should be.

At the same time, it is very important that the diameter of the pipe used can be small - from 18 to 40 mm, which makes it possible to easily hide them, for example, behind a plasterboard wall. The power is quite high, which makes it possible to divert wastewater to a distance of about 100 m horizontally and about 5-7 m vertically

The latter may be relevant if the level at which the bathroom is located is lower than expected.Installation is quite simple, without the use of additional construction work.

Compact macerator pump located behind the toilet

The pump has temperature limits for waste water. The maximum values ​​vary from +35C to +50C. This information should be looked for in the passport. It will be relevant only if, in addition to the toilet bowl, a shower, bidet, washbasin, etc. are also connected to the pump. For this, an additional inlet is provided on the body. If the requirements for the temperature of the pumped liquid are not observed, the device fails. In some models, you can find special short-term protection that allows you to pump hot drains for about 30 minutes, but this cannot be done all the time.

Types of fecal pumps.

The equipment is very easy to maintain. All that is required of the owner is to periodically clean. To do this, a special solution is poured with water, which destroys deposits on the walls.

It is important to ensure that a solvent of organic origin does not get along with the drains, the substance can corrode rubber seals. The main disadvantage is considered to be its volatility, which does not allow the mechanism to function during a power outage.

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