How to replace a toilet bowl: dismantling the old one and installing a new one with your own hands

Dismantling

Before you change the toilet, you will need to dismantle the old one. For this you will need:

• Turn off the water supply;
• Disable eyeliner;
• Drain the contents from the barrel;
• Remove barrel. If the old toilet is not planned to be used anywhere, then this can be done with a hammer, otherwise you will have to act carefully;
• Remove the fixing tools with which the bowl was mounted, remove it by pouring out the remaining water.

If it is decided to use brute force to dismantle the old toilet bowl and use a hammer or punch, then you should be careful not to allow various fragments to enter the sewer, which will cause a blockage.

If there is any support made of wood or other material under the old bowl, then it must be removed. The void that remains after this operation must be filled with cement and leveled with a spatula.

Removing an old toilet

To carefully remove the old toilet, it may take a lot of time and effort, because over the years it reliably turns sour and practically does not lend itself to dismantling without damaging its body. Be that as it may, the place for its new counterpart will have to be vacated. You should start by removing the fasteners located below.

If possible, they need to be removed or loosened as much as possible, and then try to remove the sanitary fixture, vigorously swaying it either to the left or to the right. If such actions do not give any result, then you will have to break the case and dismantle it piece by piece. It is also necessary to eliminate small parts of ceramics from the cast-iron socket, designed to connect the toilet bowl to the sewer riser. After that, the resulting debris should be removed.

Removing an old toilet

It is best to invite a plumber to replace the toilet carefully

The procedure depends on what the plumbing fixture is: floor or hanging. Both options are discussed below.

Dismantling the floor toilet

Perform the following:

1. Shut off the valve on the branch of the water supply leading to the toilet bowl.
2. They drop water.
3. With a wrench, twist the nut of the flexible connection from the pipe of the float valve.
4. After removing the cistern lid, unscrew the bolts holding the container to the toilet bowl with two wrenches.
5. After removing the plugs on the sole of the toilet, unscrew the dowels with a Phillips screwdriver.
6. By feeding the bowl forward and shaking it to the right and left, the outlet is disconnected from the sewer socket.

If the sewer is cast iron and the outlet is sealed with mortar, it is knocked out with a hammer and chisel.

If the toilet is glued to the floor, it remains only to break it.

Dismantling the wall-hung toilet

Devices of this type are removed like this:

1. Remove the plugs located on the sides of the bowl and unscrew the opened nuts with a wrench.
2. Remove the washers and eccentrics from the studs.
3. Carefully remove the bowl from the studs so as not to damage the outlet of the sewer pipe.
4. Remove bushings from studs.
5. Take off the pad.

If it is required to dismantle not only the bowl, but the entire structure as a whole, do the following:

1. Unscrew the pins.
2. Disassemble the false wall.
3. Disconnect the water supply from the float valve. That one is connected with a rigid pipe, therefore a pipe wrench (“parrot”) is needed.
4. Unscrew the dowels holding the installation with a Phillips screwdriver.
5. The installation is removed by carefully disconnecting the drain pipe present in it from the sewer socket.

Half done. It remains to replace the toilet with a new one.

Preparatory operations

Preparatory operations in this case come down to buying a new toilet, as well as preparing all the tools necessary for work. Before choosing a suitable sample of a plumbing fixture, you should carefully understand the design and characteristic dimensions of the old one.

To do this, measurements are made and data is taken on the location of the toilet body, as well as the communications connected to it (sewerage and a water pipe with a hose).

Based on these data, you can choose the device that suits you, having similar installation dimensions and seats.

In addition to the body of the toilet itself, the following set of accessories is purchased:

• water hose (if necessary);
• landing mounts (usually they come with the product);
• corrugated pipe used to connect the toilet to the sewer (if necessary);
• flush tank complete.

Preparing a site for a new toilet

Changing the toilet implies that we will have to do a little preparation of the seat for the new plumbing fixture.

• Use a chisel and hammer to remove the remains of the old mortar or putty from the floor. The floor should be as level as possible.
• Clean the inside of the sewer socket. If it is plastic - just wipe it, if it is cast iron - you may have to work again with a chisel, removing the remaining putty.
• If the toilet was placed on a board, it is better to completely remove it and fill the cavity in the floor with cement mortar or mortar. Rotten wood as a base is not the best choice. Alas, you have to wait until the solution hardens.

• Fasteners nailed (or shot) to the wall remained from the upper tank. It can be pulled out of the wall by prying the edge with a chisel and loosening the dowels. An alternative is to cut them with a grinder.
• What to do with a hard connection to the upper tank - you have to decide according to the circumstances.Or, if the pipe comes from below, unscrew it along the nearest thread and put the barrel under the flexible pipe; or muffle and cut the tee into the cold water supply to the mixers.
• In any case, it would be a good idea to clean the old pipe with a cable or at least a screwdriver: steel eventually grows rust and mineral deposits from the inside. Especially in cold water.
• If laying is planned. Otherwise, you will have to spend a lot of time cutting the tiles to fit the shape of the base of the toilet.
• If the liner to the tank did not have its own valve, it is advisable to put one. Better so-called ball, blocking the water by turning the handle half a turn.

How to install yourself?

After the old toilet is removed, it is necessary to carry out a general cleaning of the room so that no debris and dust remain. Or, if repairs are planned, then carry out all the work to replace the flooring and wall cladding. Once everything is done, you can proceed to install new plumbing equipment. It is strongly recommended to install plumbing after the repair is completed, as it is most often made of fragile materials that can be damaged.

In order to replace the floor toilet, you need:

• determine its location, put the bowl in the most optimal place, try everything on;
• making sure of the convenience of such a location, you need to circle the base of the bowl with a construction pencil, highlight the holes for fastening;
• remove the toilet, then drill holes and insert dowels into them;
• install a corrugated tube in the sewer hole, it is necessary to process the junction with a sealant;
• put the new bathroom strictly on the marked place, screw in the bolts for fastening to the floor;
• make a connection to the sewer;
• put a toilet bowl;
• connect the structure to the water supply.

Be sure to check the structure for leaks. Provided that they are not there, the installation was successful, you can safely use the toilet. If it was decided to install a wall-mounted toilet, then in this case there will be more work. It is necessary to repair the flooring, and equip the false wall, and repair it.

Replacement must be done in the following sequence:

• mark the installation site, bring sewerage and water supply;
• try on a frame for mounting the structure;
• mark the places for mounting on the wall and on the floor;
• using a perforator, make holes, install a frame (or installation);
• install a drain tank and connect the water supply;
• install sheets of drywall so that you get an imitation of the walls;
• finish the resulting false wall;
• install the bowl, connect with a corrugated pipe to the sewer, carefully coat everything with sealant;
• connect the drain tank.

Removing the toilet on your own. Stages

In order to independently perform the removal of the toilet, we recommend that you proceed strictly in stages. Consider 3 main stages, what they include and how to proceed in order to avoid additional costs for repairing the floor and walls.

Stage 1. Preparatory work

To get started, we need a small crowbar, wrenches, pliers, unnecessary rags, rubber gloves and disinfectant.You need to work only with gloves, and the entire workspace must be rid of debris and dirt to the maximum. You can use both a special disinfectant and a simple chlorine solution. Even bleach will do.

1. Completely shut off the cold water with a valve.
2. Drain the water that is in the tank.
3. We check whether the water is completely blocked and proceed to the main work.

Stage 2. Release the base of the toilet

We do not dismantle the base together with the tank. It is not comfortable. First, disconnect the flexible hose through which water is supplied. After that, you can remove the tank. If it just hangs on hinges, it can not even be opened. If fastened with nuts from the back, they must first be unscrewed.

Next, you can proceed to dismantle the base. Depending on the toilet model, it is attached at 2 or 4 points. As a rule, the connection is nut. Or dowel. Regardless of this, you can use a wrench to dismantle

Please note that if you have tiled floor, it will have to be broken down a bit. Otherwise, dismantling the base will not work. If the toilet is on studs, it needs to be slightly lifted and wiggled, thereby loosening the seal in the sewer pipe

If the toilet is cemented, the cement can be beaten off with a chisel. It is only necessary to direct its tip across the coating so as not to damage the outlet or socket

If the toilet is on studs, it needs to be slightly lifted and wiggled, thereby loosening the seal in the sewer pipe. If the toilet is cemented, the cement can be beaten off with a chisel. It is only necessary to direct its tip across the coating so as not to damage the outlet or the socket.

Stage 3. Releasing the toilet bowl from the sewer pipe

At this stage, the only connection between the toilet and the sewer pipe. Before disconnecting it, we will prepare a rag gag so that we can close the pipe and block the exit of sewer gases.

The easiest way is to beat off the outlet from the pipe, and then clean its surface from particles of ceramics and old mortar. Of course, in this case, further use of the toilet will be impossible. If you plan to install it, for example, in the country, then we act differently.

We check how freely the toilet moves in the pipe. After that, we slowly stagger and scroll the outlet until it comes out of the socket. There will most likely be some mortar left on it, which will have to be carefully removed before installing new plumbing.

Dismantling an outdated toilet bowl

There is more difficult work to be done here. In houses / apartments that were built in Soviet times, plumbing was installed as reliably as possible and in fact does not provide for dismantling. That is why, without significant damage can not do.

Removing the toilet without damaging it will not work. You may or may not try. The joints of the joints will have to be broken, as they are hermetically connected with cement mortar. The main thing here is not to damage the sewer pipe and outlet. This suggests that when we wield a chisel and a hammer, we need to be extremely careful and, as we wrote earlier, direct it across the coating.

How can you understand do-it-yourself toilet dismantling — it's not that difficult. If you want to save a lot on plumbing services, just follow our tips.

Preparatory work for installation

Regardless of what will cover the floor (tile or regular screed), you need to wait for the mixture to dry on the floor surface.This will take approximately a week. This is due to the fact that the toilet bowl is fixed by means of fasteners and dowels, under which a reliable and solid base is required. In this situation, a hardened solution will act as a similar base.

The next step is to prepare those involved in the communication installation process. The area where the drain will be connected must be cleaned in advance of various contaminants and salt deposits. Otherwise, it will not work to connect the toilet to the sewer riser as needed. That is, the corner or corrugation in the outlet cup will not sit tightly, and a leak will definitely appear.

Even at the point of connection of the drain tank, a tap should be installed so that it is possible to carry out repair and cleaning work with incomplete shutdown of water.

Toilet installation

When the toilet is removed, odors come out of the sewer. So that they do not distract from work, the sewer hole must be closed with something, for example, plugged with rags.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation continues with markings for dowels. To do this, the bowl is placed in the place where it should be installed, and the holes are marked. Drill holes according to this marking and insert dowels into the holes.

In some models, the holes are drilled at an angle. In this case, to install the toilet in the holes, it is necessary to drill at the same angle.

When the dowels are inserted, the bowl is put in place and connected to the cuff from the sewer socket. Then the screws are tightened, on which plastic washers are put on.

It is not right to immediately tighten the screws too much. First you need to lightly bait, and evaluate whether the installation is smooth.If not, then level it by substituting plastic linings under it. Only then can you tighten it.

The bowl is installed according to the markup

To install the toilet bowl, you yourself need to assemble the barrel if it is delivered disassembled. Here everything is done according to the instructions that are attached by the manufacturer.

All moving parts must not come into contact with each other or the walls of the drain tank.

The next step is to install the drain tank on the bowl. Fasteners are usually made using bolts, which should be tightened evenly. When the installation is done, a cover is put on the tank and a button or drain lever is installed.

It is recommended to put a gasket between the bowl and the barrel. To prevent the gasket from moving, it is better to glue it with a sealant.

The final moment of self-installation of the toilet bowl is the connection of the liner.

When the eyeliner is connected, do not rush to turn on the water. First you need check for damage all nodes of the structure visually. And only when you are sure that everything looks normal, you can open the water, fill the reservoir and try to flush. If there are leaks, they need to be fixed.

Video:

Mixer replacement

Faucet replacement is one of the services that our company provides for residents of Moscow. Our qualified plumbers will dismantle, install and connect various types of faucets.

It is believed that the installation of a crane or its replacement is a matter that any owner can handle.When installing the faucet in the bathroom or in the kitchen, you should correctly assemble it taking into account the model, securely fix the faucet, and correctly connect it to the water pipes so that there are no problems during further operation. Therefore, it is best if installation work is carried out by professional plumbers.

Why it is profitable to cooperate with us

• Our master plumbers will repair, replace, install almost any faucets in the bathroom, in the kitchen. We provide the service for residents of Moscow, at the request of customers and the Moscow region.
• We provide advice on choosing a model
• Exact compliance with deadlines, urgent plumbing departure
• Favorable prices, there is a system of discounts
• Warranty (at the request of the customer we issue a document) 1 year

Types of work when replacing the mixer

Replacing a faucet in the bathroom or in the kitchen is the best option if the old one is out of order, leaking and repairing it is impossible. We perform the following types of work:

• Dismantling the old mixer
• Preparing a site for a new faucet
• We install faucets in the bathroom, kitchen, shower
• Changing gaskets
• We test the system for performance

What mixers do we work with?

A faucet is a plumbing fixture that regulates the flow of water. He is responsible for mixing cold and hot water, as a result of which the user receives water at the required temperature.

We will replace and install the following types of faucets:

• two-handle (separate taps): they are simple in design and reliable
• single-lever: allow you to simultaneously adjust the intensity of the water flow and its temperature
• electronic: equipped with optical or electronic sensors.They allow you to automatically open the water, maintain the set temperature, if there is a backlight, provide a decorative function.
• under the filter (have a double spout): equipped with a special valve for filtered water.

We also mount valve, single-lever, ceramic, ball, wall mixers. At the request of the client, our specialists will install the faucet on the sink, wall, side, podium, rack, shelf. In this case, the installation is more complicated, so additional materials will be required.

Faucet installation and replacement cost

The price of replacing a mixer depends on the complexity of the work being done: whether dismantling is required, whether preparatory work is necessary, as well as on the model of the mixer. Below are indicative prices:

Faucet installation (price does not include preparatory work)
For sink (regular)	from 450 rub.
For a sink (if there is a water seal)	from 750 rub.
for bidet	400 rub.
single lever	from 750 - 1450 rubles.
For bathroom (with shower head and bar)	from 750 - 2000 rubles.
For bathroom (regular with wall mount)	from 750 - 1500 rubles.
With thermostat	1990 rubles / piece
With siphon (set)	1500 rub.
Electronic	2690 rubles / piece

Mixer installation (price of additional services)
Replacing the gasket in the sewer pipe	150 rubles / piece
Cranbox replacement	320 rubles / piece
Thread cutting	from 95-170 rubles.
Shower hose installation	100 rub.
Ball valve installation	200-450 rub.
Dismantling of the old/modern faucet	250 rubles / piece
Drilling a hole in a sink	150 rubles / piece

The final cost is negotiated with each client separately, it all depends on the amount of work performed, the requirements of the customer.

Mixer installation - steps

Set of required tools: adjustable wrench, gaskets (usually included), wrenches, water hoses

Before installation, it is important to read the instructions, draw a diagram

Connection can be made in 2 ways: using flexible hoses in a metal sheath, using tubes (brass or copper).

The steps for installing the faucet depend on where you plan to install it (in the bathroom, in the kitchen), as well as on its type.

For example, when installing a single-lever faucet, you should tighten the stud on which the half-shell is put on and secure everything with a nut. Only after that the mixer itself is connected.

Two-valve mixers are equipped with tubes (they put nuts on, wind the sealant, connect it to the water supply, tighten the nuts) or a tee (attach to the pipes with help).

Wall hung toilet

Wall hung toilets are becoming more and more popular. Installation of a wall-hung toilet does not require contact with the floor, which is a significant advantage of this model. To fix this design, make a special metal frame and attach it to the load-bearing wall using dowels or anchors. Position the toilet on the frame and attach it.

The hanging toilet bowl involves several technological solutions for the placement of additional structures. For example, all pipes can be hidden behind a plasterboard partition or a special plumbing cabinet can be built (its design requires shelves where you can keep toilet cleaners and other toiletries). When attaching the toilet to the wall, the pipes are either mounted into the wall, or a branch is made bypassing the fasteners.

Connecting the toilet to the water pipeline

First you need to install the drain tank fittings according to the instructions. Since most of the threaded connections of this assembly are plastic, they must be tightened by hand. Otherwise, the threads may be damaged, which will lead to the purchase of new components and, accordingly, to an increase in the cost of such work.

Having installed the fittings, you can begin to connect it to the water pipeline. A prerequisite for this will be the presence of a valve or ball valve designed to reliably shut off the supply water on the toilet bowl. After installing such a faucet (or replacing the old one if it was already installed but failed), the next step will be to connect a flexible hose of the appropriate length. It shouldn't be too tight. At the joints, it is imperative to put rubber gaskets, and FUM tapes can be wound a little on the thread.

Having completed all types of work with high quality, you can independently install a new toilet bowl that can reliably perform its functions for more than a decade.

Installing a new plumbing fixture: what to consider

When the old toilet has been successfully dismantled, it's time to replace the plumbing with a new one. The installation process differs depending on the type of model chosen. Installation of a bowl with a floor mount and a hinged model with a hidden tank are carried out by different methods. Step by step installation instructions will help you to do this task yourself.

Toilet-compact - a step-by-step installation master class

In order to replace an old toilet with a floor-standing compact type, if the installation is to be carried out on a tiled floor, follow our recommendations.

1. Decide on the location of the new toilet. Put the bowl in the toilet without fastening, try to sit on it, try on several options.
2. When you have exactly decided on the place, circle the base with a washable marker. Mark the attachment points with a marker.
3. Put the plumbing aside. All the necessary marks remained on the floor. Take a drill with 12 bits and drill holes in the tiles. It is better to beat concrete with a perforator with a number 12 drill. Insert dowels into the holes.
4. Take a corrugation or cuff with which you will connect the outlet to the sewer. Install it in place, smearing the joint with sealant.
5. Place the new corrugated toilet in the correct position. Thread the bolts into the mounting ears and screw them in with an adjustable wrench. Do not overdo it so as not to pinch or split the ceramic.
6. Connect the toilet to the sewer. Treat all joints with silicone.
7. Place the jar on the bowl. Connect the elements with bolts.
8. You can connect the device to the water supply.

Check all joints and threaded connections for leaks. If everything is fine, you can start using plumbing.

It is easier to replace such a floor toilet than to describe the process in words. Modern models are designed so that the floor covering is not damaged.

Installation: hanging bowl and hidden tank

Replacing an ordinary toilet with a wall-mounted one with a hidden flush tank is an order of magnitude more difficult than the previous version. Here, not only the replacement of equipment is carried out, but also the repair of the flooring, and the construction of a false wall, followed by finishing with tiles or other materials.

A detailed description of how to change a conventional toilet bowl to a hinged structure:

1. Mark the installation location. A 110 mm sewer pipe and a water supply are brought to the selected site.
2. Try on the purchased installation (rigid mounting frame). Decide on the height. Standard placement is 450mm from the floor to the seat and 100mm from the floor to the bottom edge of the bowl.
3. Mark the floor and wall mounting points with a marker so that they exactly match the mounting holes.
4. Drill holes with a puncher and install the frame. Make sure the installation is correct using a level.
5. Connect water to the drain tank.
6. Included with the installation is a plan for cutting a sheet of drywall to sew up the installation site. Fasten drywall to the metal profile and directly to the installation. It is better to use moisture resistant materials.
7. Make the finish to your liking.
8. It's time to replace the toilet bowl itself. Connect it to the sewer corrugation to connect to the pipe. Don't forget the sealant.
9. Screw the bowl directly to the installation frame through tiles and drywall using studs.
10. Connect the device to the sewer and drain tank.

Despite the fact that replacing the toilet with a hinged one will take more time, it's worth it, because such plumbing looks expensive and stylish.

Ways to fix the toilet

After dismantling the old structure, it is necessary to determine the method of fixing the new equipment. Currently, the fixing of the toilet bowl is performed using epoxy glue, taffeta, dowel screws.

The most common method is the use of dowel screws.

In this case, the places of fastening of the structure are initially marked, then sockets for dowels are drilled, followed by screwing screws into them.

Taffeta is treated wood, which is "sunk" in a cement-sand mortar and fixed with anchors. After that, the toilet is placed on this design. At the same time, taffeta performs the function of a damper, preventing the possibility of splitting the device during operation.

Perhaps the easiest way to install and secure the toilet is to install it on an adhesive base.

To do this, it is necessary, first of all, to clean the surface of dirt and dust, degrease it, and for better adhesion, create a roughness of the base. Next, epoxy resin 5 mm thick is applied, after which the device is firmly pressed to the floor.

The strength of the adhesive connection of the toilet depends on the flooring of the restroom. A tiled or wooden base has a high level of adhesion to ceramics. In this case, you should not fix the device on a concrete screed with glue.

Removing an old toilet

The toilet can be:

• floor, that is, installed on the floor of the toilet room;
• hanging, that is, attached to one of the walls of the toilet room.

The choice of dismantling method depends on the type of toilet bowl installed.

Removing a floor standing toilet

Before proceeding with the installation of a new plumbing product, it is required to dismantle the toilet bowl installed earlier. The work is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. the water flowing into the drain tank is blocked. To do this, just close the valve on the water pipe;
2. the water supply is disconnected from the toilet bowl.To perform the work, you will need a wrench of the right size or an adjustable plumbing wrench;

Disconnecting the liner from the drain tank

1. all water is drained from the tank. The remains of the liquid are soaked with a soft cloth to avoid spillage;
2. the toilet bowl is removed. To do this, unscrew the fixing bolts located in the bottom of the drain tank;

Bolts fixing the tank on the toilet

1. at the next stage, it is necessary to determine the method of connecting the outlet of the toilet bowl and the sewer pipe. Currently, the connection is equipped with a rubber cuff sealed with sealant. Previously, the joint was sealed with cement mortar:

Plumbing connected to the sewer with a rubber cuff

if the joint is smeared with cement screed, then a hammer and chisel will be needed to disconnect the toilet from the sewer. The cement screed is broken into small pieces with the help of tools and gradually removed.

Joint sealed with cement mortar

It is necessary to carry out the work of removing cement very carefully so as not to damage the sewer inlet. Otherwise, when installing new plumbing, pipes will need to be replaced.

1. after disconnecting the toilet bowl from the sewer, you can proceed to the direct dismantling of the sanitary ware. The toilet can be fixed to the floor:

Removing a toilet fixed with bolts

using epoxy resin. In this case, it is practically impossible to dismantle the plumbing without damage. To remove the toilet, you need to slightly swing the product in different directions until the retaining adhesive seam is partially destroyed. When doing work, you can slightly help with third-party tools, such as a knife;

Dismantling a bowl mounted on an adhesive base

using taffeta (wooden lining). Removing the toilet bowl from the taffeta is quite simple. It is necessary to unscrew the fixing bolts. However, after dismantling the plumbing, it is required to remove the wooden gasket and fill the vacated space with a cement-concrete mixture.

After dismantling the wooden lining

You can start installing new plumbing after the solution has completely hardened, which takes up to 7 days.

1. the installation site of the toilet bowl and the connection of plumbing with the sewer pipe is cleared of debris and other contaminants.

Removing a wall hung toilet

You can replace the wall-mounted toilet with your own hands in the shortest possible time. To dismantle the old plumbing product, you must:

1. slightly loosen the bolts fixing the toilet on the installation;
2. disconnect the plumbing device from the drain tank and sewer;
3. completely remove the toilet from the fixtures.

Dismantling the toilet attached to the wall

It is more convenient to work on dismantling the hanging toilet bowl together, since it is impossible for one person to simultaneously loosen the fixing bolts and maintain the plumbing device at the same level.