- Surface drainage of the site
- Drying system types
- Peculiarities
- Types of drainage
- Surface drainage
- Deep
- Types of drainage
- By installation method
- By type of implementation
- Deep drainage in clay soils and other difficult terrain
- The procedure for performing work during the construction of drainage systems
- How to build an open drainage system
- How is the construction of a closed drainage
- How to make a drainage system with your own hands - construction technology
- Do-it-yourself drainage system construction technology
- Varieties of drainage systems
- Deep drainage device
- Where is the organization of water outflow needed?
- deep drainage
- When is drainage required?
- How to make indoor drainage around the house with your own hands
- A few words about the plastic drainage well
- The purpose of the drainage of the garden plot
- How to choose a site for wells
Surface drainage of the site
The most simple and effective system can be called surface drainage. In this case, the drainage of the soil is achieved by diverting the water formed as a result of melting snow and heavy rain.
The surface drainage system of the drainage system on the site is equipped with its own hands around all the buildings on the site and along its perimeter.

There are two types of surface water drainage system:
- Point or local drainage involves the collection and diversion of water from certain places. Such a system is equipped under the drains, near the entrance group, as well as at the locations of the irrigation tanks and taps of the water supply system. You can use spot drainage as a fallback option in case the main type of drainage is heavily loaded.
- Linear drainage - This is a system for draining water from the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe site. The composition of such drainage includes receiving trays and channels that have a certain slope to ensure a constant flow of water. Mandatory elements in such a system are gratings and sand traps. Most of the system elements, including trays and drains, are made of polymeric materials. In particular, we are talking about polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride, low-density polyethylene and polymer concrete.
Drying system types
- open;
- closed;
- Zasypnaya.
An open drainage system is an artificial reservoir that is accessible at any time. Most often they are organized along the perimeter of the entire site, but in certain areas where the slope of the earth allows, they are dug out at the lowest point of the share. In this case, all the "extra" water is discharged into the drains. Especially such a system is convenient during thaws or other precipitation. The main advantage is the simplicity of the device, the disadvantages include pollution of wastewater.

A closed system is a network of special drainage pipes. Drainage communications are connected to sewage wells into which water flows from the surface of the earth. There are several such wells on the site, at the lowest points. From them, water is discharged using a pipeline from the perimeter of your land.
Scheme: site drainage
Backfill drainage combines elements of open and closed. In certain places on the site, trenches are dug, which are reinforced with stones and rubble. For this, building materials with a decreasing fraction size are used: at the lower levels there are stones with a larger size, the closer to the surface, the smaller the fraction. Soil is poured over the drainage trenches. Owners often decorate such a drainage system with water-loving plants or other decorative landscape elements. The latter option is not recommended for use on swampy soils, because it is very quickly filled with water.
Peculiarities
Before you start doing drainage with your own hands in the country, you definitely need to familiarize yourself with some of the features of this enterprise:
The drainage system can be of two types: deep and surface. In turn, the surface can be point and linear
Deep is necessary on marshy and loamy soils, where the main moisture comes from groundwater, and it is very important to correctly calculate the drainage depth. Surface is necessary in areas that are in a lowland and in spring the earth cannot cope with a large amount of moisture in a natural way
Point surface drainage is a well with a grid at the lowest point of the site, from which water goes underground or is collected in a special container. Accordingly, linear is a classic drainage with highways;
Before starting work, develop a project. It is not at all necessary to seek help from specialists, the main purpose of this drawing is to make it clear what size of drainage is needed and at what angle the pipes should be located (if the system is linear or deep);
Consider the depth of the recessed type drainage system. It must be below the freezing level of the ground, otherwise the drainage will not cope with its direct functions during the thaw. If this is not possible, then work out the insulation of the system. You can get all the data of interest at the geological bureau of your region;
The slope of the drainage in the country, which will be done by hand, should be at least 1-3 centimeters per linear meter. In some cases, you need to make it sharper;
It is very important to use safe materials for work. The land in the country in any case is intended for harvest, no matter what it is: berries, vegetables or something else. Therefore, do not use harmful building materials or compounds for ditch equipment.
Types of drainage
It should be noted that the classification of drainage systems includes a fairly large number of varieties. And in different sources, this number can differ dramatically, plus the names of the systems will also differ. In this article we will talk about the simplest, but effective measures on how to lower the water level in a summer cottage.
Surface drainage
This is the simplest system, consisting of open ditches, which is called stormwater. That is, its main task is to collect and remove precipitation and water from melted snow. Ditches can be simply dug into the ground or assembled from concrete or plastic trays.
Ditches dug in the ground are covered with rubble or pebbles so that they do not litter. Or leave it open. So that the walls of the ditches do not crumble, they are decorated with pebbles or other durable and waterproof materials. As for the finished trays, they are covered with gratings: metal or plastic.
Typically, such a system is equipped along the tracks, around the perimeter of sites and buildings. Therefore, when the task of constructing drainage for paths in a garden plot is set, then it is the open variety that is used.
Open drainage ditch
Storm sewers can be assembled from pipes that are laid in ditches to a shallow depth. At the same time, the piping is connected to receiving funnels, where water is drained from the street. Such funnels are usually installed under the risers of the drainage systems of the roofs of buildings and structures, as well as on the territory of a summer cottage, where intensive drainage is required.
Deep
This is a system of perforated pipes, which are called drains, installed at a certain depth. Usually below groundwater level. When talking about the drainage of a garden plot, they mean exactly this type of drainage system. Its main task is to lower the groundwater level, that is, to partially drain the site.
We will talk about it further.
Preparation of ditches for deep drainage
Types of drainage
Site drainage is a complex system with many nuances and features. By structure, it can be local (local) - to solve a problem in a particular area. Most often it is the drainage of the foundation, basement and semi-basement (basement) floors. Also, water drainage systems on the site are common - to drain the entire site or a significant part of it.
Soft drainage without a pipe. Suitable when it is necessary to drain a small amount of water in a summer cottage or near the house
By installation method
According to the installation method, the drainage system can be:
open. Concrete or stone trays are used, ditches are dug around the site.They remain open, but can be covered with decorative grilles to protect the system from large debris. If you need a simple solution for draining surface water in your country house, these are ditches along the perimeter of the site or in the lowest zone. Their depth should be sufficient so that at maximum flow the water does not overflow. To unfortified walls of drainage ditches did not collapse, they are made at an angle of 30 °,
So that the walls of open drainage ditches do not crumble, ground cover plants are planted on the slopes or laid out with cobblestones. Open drainage near the driveway, parking lot does not spoil the picture at all. and so can take a significant amount of water
- closed. Water is caught by laid special permeable - drainage - pipes. Pipes are led into a storage well, into a sewer, a ravine, a nearby reservoir. This type of drainage on the site is good for permeable soils (sandy).
- Zasypnoy. Drainage of this type of site is usually used on clay soils or loams. In this case, the pipes are also laid in ditches, but a layered sand and gravel backfill is arranged in them, which collects water from the surrounding soils. The worse the soil conducts moisture, the more powerful the backfill is required.
Drainage pipe in gravel backfill
The specific type of site drainage is selected based on site conditions. On clays and loams, an extensive gravel-sandy zone is needed, into which water will drain from the surrounding soil areas.On sands and sandy loams, there is no need for such a pillow - the soils themselves drain water well, but only a specialist on the results of geological research can specifically say.
By type of implementation
There are several types (schemes) of drainage devices on the site:
- Annular. Pipes are closed in a ring around the object. Usually they are the house. It is rarely used, since it is necessary to deeply deepen the drainage pipes - the pipe itself must be laid 20-30 cm below the groundwater level. This is expensive and difficult to implement.
- Wall drainage - to drain water from the walls. It is located at a distance of 1.6-2.4 m from the walls (in no case close). In this case, the drain is located 5-10 cm below the basement floor. If the floor is poured over a large crushed stone cushion, the drain is laid 5-10 cm below this level.
The right solution for drainage from the foundation - storm sewer system and drainage - Reservoir drainage. It is used in the construction of slab foundations in difficult situations. It is necessary for the removal of perched water, it is usually used together with wall water drainage. Reservoir drainage is layers poured into the pit - sand, crushed stone, waterproofing (as they are poured from bottom to top). Reinforcement is already laid on top of this pillow and the foundation slab is poured.
- Systematic and radiation. Used to dry areas. They differ in the way the drains are located relative to the central pipe. With a beam scheme, the system is similar to a Christmas tree (already existing plants can be taken into account), with a systematic scheme, drains are laid with a calculated step (usually arranged when planning a site).
Radiation drainage of the site
When draining the site, the central drain or collector is made of pipes of a larger diameter (130-150 mm versus 90-100 mm for conventional drains) - the volume of water here is usually larger. The specific type of drainage system is selected based on the tasks that need to be solved. Sometimes you have to use combinations of different schemes.
Deep drainage in clay soils and other difficult terrain
The algorithm for building a deep system in complex areas is as follows:
- Dig a trench: on clay soil 60 cm deep, on loam - 80-90 cm, on sandy soil - 100 cm. Slope - no more than 30 degrees.
- Pour sand into the bottom of the trench, no more than 10 cm, and tamp it down.
- Cover the bottom with geofabric: its edges should go over the sides of the dug trench.
- Fill the geotextile with fine gravel with a layer of 20 cm.
- Lay the drainage pipes on top of the rubble with the perforation down. Adjust their position.
- Cover the pipes with a new layer of crushed stone and wrap the edges of the geotextile. You should get a kind of "roll": sand-geofabric-rubble-pipe-rubble-geofabric. Such a design will protect drainage from silting: geofabric and crushed stone let water flows through, but retain the soil, preventing it from entering the pipe.
Drainage system - scheme
- Equip a collector well from reinforced concrete rings or install a ready-made plastic tank. Run pipes to it. The collector should be located in the lowest zone of the suburban area. The diameter of the structure must be at least 1-1.5. Water from it can be removed either into a reservoir or into a storm sewer.
- Lay fertile soil, which was removed during the construction of the trench, on the top crushed stone pillow.When the soil sags, cover it with another layer of soil - this will help make the drainage system almost invisible.
- Lay a strip of sod on top.
As you can see, there is nothing unrealistic in the arrangement of the drainage system at their summer cottage, so do not be afraid to take on such work yourself. The main thing is to accurately determine the type of drainage required and follow the rules for its installation. And do not forget that by making an effort just once, you can protect yourself from a lot of problems in the future, namely, from the death of garden and horticultural crops and the flooding of your own dacha.
The procedure for performing work during the construction of drainage systems
In order to successfully build drainage in a summer cottage, you need to be guided by the following general considerations:
- The construction of a closed drainage system requires a large amount of earthwork. In this regard, it is necessary to build drainage even before trees are planted on the site, and even better - before the foundation of buildings is laid.
- Before work begins, a detailed system plan must be drawn up. To do this, it is necessary to study the terrain, determine the highest and lowest points on the site, set the value of the required slope.
- When designing a closed system, revision wells should be included in the plan to ensure the possibility of servicing the drainage system.
- When laying a drainage pipeline, the recommended slope is from two to ten millimeters per meter of pipe.
How to build an open drainage system
Building an open drainage system is a much easier task than laying a closed drainage system, as it does not require digging deep trenches.When laying a network of trenches, a plan for their location is first drawn up. Then trenches are dug. Usually, the main ditches are laid along the perimeter of the site, and the auxiliary ditches are laid from the places of the greatest accumulation of water. In this case, the depth of the trench should be from fifty to seventy centimeters, the width should be about half a meter. Auxiliary trenches should slope towards the main ditches, and main trenches should slope towards the catchment. The walls of the trench should not be vertical, but beveled. The angle of inclination in this case should be from twenty-five to thirty degrees.
The further course of work depends on which system is being built, filling or tray. During the construction of the backfill system, the ditch is first covered with rubble - 2-thirds of the depth is large, and then shallow. Sod is laid on top of the gravel. To prevent silting of crushed stone, it is desirable to cover it with geotextile.
The construction of flume drainage includes the following steps:
- Laying trenches subject to the required slope.
- Filling the bottom of the ditches with a ten-centimeter layer of sand, which must then be compacted tightly.
- Installation of trays and sand traps, which are plastic parts that prevent sand and debris from entering the drainage, and thereby protecting the system from silting.
- Closing the ditches from above with gratings that prevent clogging of the trenches with fallen leaves and various debris, and also perform an aesthetic function.
How is the construction of a closed drainage
The construction of a closed-type drainage system consists of the following steps:
- Studying the relief of the territory of the site using a level and a laser rangefinder, and building a plan for the drainage network.If surveying instruments are not available, then you should wait for heavy rain and observe the movement of rainwater flows.
- Laying trenches under the drainage pipeline.
- Backfilling the bottom of the trenches with a layer of sand seven to ten centimeters thick, followed by tamping.
- Laying geotextiles in a trench, while the edges of the fabric should protrude beyond the sides of the ditch.
- Laying a twenty-centimeter layer of gravel on top of the geotextile, which serves as a filter. In this case, limestone gravel should not be used, since this can form a salt marsh.
- Laying pipes on a layer of gravel. In this case, their holes should be directed downwards.
- Filling gravel on top of the pipes and closing it on top with the edges of a geotextile that will filter water from suspended particles, thereby preventing silting of the system.
- Burying ditches with soil, on top of which sod can be laid.
The drainage system should end with a well for collecting water, which must be dug at the lowest point of the site. From this well, water can be discharged into a natural reservoir, into a ravine, or into a general storm drain, if there is one in this settlement.
A properly constructed drainage system will prevent problems associated with excessive dampness, which is why its construction is mandatory in areas with wet soil.
And those owners of summer cottages who are not sure that they can cope with the construction of drainage on their own should contact specialists and pay the required amount, but you should not try to save on such an important functional element of a summer cottage as drainage
Well, that's all guys - I hope I was able to give you an answer to the question: "How to make drainage on the site with your own hands". All success!
How to make a drainage system with your own hands - construction technology
It should be understood that the more moisture accumulates in your area, the more negatively it affects your buildings, as well as the plants that grow in your garden. It is worth noting that a well-executed drainage system is the way to a durable and comfortable life for your buildings, because when there is no drainage on the site, and it often rains heavily, it can even cause waterlogging of the soil, which can cause deformation of your foundation.
In addition, the use of a drainage system will allow more rational use of septic tanks that are used on your site to purify water that comes from your sewer, because it is the use of a septic tank that will allow you to purify water first in the septic tank, and then on aerobic fields, where water enters both from the septic tank and from the drainage system (water discharge well), and then it is cleaned using groundwater.
Thus, the use of a drainage system with aerobic fields will allow you not to disturb the ecological situation of your site, but rather keep it clean.
So, in order to avoid such consequences, let's figure out how to divert water from a house by building a drainage system, but please note that in this article we will look at a surface drainage system (storm sewer) and touch on the topic of deep drainage. You can also read about drainage here, and I wrote about foundation drainage here.
You can also read about drainage here, and I wrote about foundation drainage here.
Do-it-yourself drainage system construction technology
So, in this lesson we will consider the installation of a surface drainage system that will help to cope with precipitation, as well as some amount of melt water on the site, that is, we will consider the construction do-it-yourself surface drainage system.
For work we need:
First, we will draw a diagram of the general drainage plan, you can make the diagram yourself, or you can order it, then they will write you in detail and tell you how to make a surface drainage system. The following elements are usually noted on the surface drainage scheme:
- drainage lines,
- water intakes,
- Sand traps,
- storm water inlets,
- Water pipes,
- As well as the scales and slopes of these systems.
You can see the diagram of the drainage system in the picture below.
Please note that the diagram also shows the angles of the pipes exactly; this is almost the main thing in the installation of a surface drainage system. Thus, it is necessary to determine that the water should flow from the side of the slope to the cesspool or sewer system
At the end of the line, it is necessary to install a sand trap, where we will install a drainage pipe.
Please note that it is necessary to install sewer pipes at a distance of at least 80 cm, because it is in this place that the soil freezing line is located and your pipe will be ready for work in the spring, because it is in spring that there is a huge amount of snow on the roof and they start to go rain. Pay great attention to the installation of point storm water inlets - they should be located close to the rainwater intake device, as this will prevent water splashing
Pay great attention to the installation of point storm water inlets - they should be located close to the rainwater intake device, as this will prevent water splashing
Varieties of drainage systems
- Drainage system with surface drainage,
- Drainage system with deep drainage,
- A system that combines the first and second options.
The option of creating such drainage holes will prevent washing out of the fruitful layers of the mail and allow the water to concentrate in these holes.
Deep drainage device
Deep drainage is a mechanism that contributes to the diversion of groundwater, which has collected an excessive amount into the gutter, you can see a sample of a deep drainage device on the slide below.
How to make a drainage system with your own hands - construction technology An exclusive technique for the construction of a drainage system in the country with your own hands in just a few days. Tips from the pros + instructional video.
Where is the organization of water outflow needed?
A flat area certainly needs drainage. If the moisture formed as a result of heavy rains and melting snow does not find an outflow, it simply remains in place, intensively impregnates the soil and leads to waterlogging, mud and global waterlogging of the earth.
A site located in a lowland, without a good drainage system, disappears. All water from higher places flows onto it, and the territory, at best, is oversaturated with moisture, and at worst, it is flooded.
Land located under a sharp slope, without drainage, loses a number of its valuable qualities. Too fast receding water erodes the top fertile layer of the soil and significantly reduces the level of productivity.
For areas with clay and loamy soils, drainage is an objective need. Rocks of this type are characterized by high density and poor conductivity. The moisture that has fallen in the form of precipitation stagnates in them for a long time and leads to general waterlogging of the area, soil shifts and a violation of the fixed stability of the foundations of residential and utility buildings.
You can not do without a full-fledged drainage system and where the level of occurrence of natural groundwater is less than 1 meter. If the drainage is ignored, there is a risk of flooding the basement and basement premises, the integrity of the foundation is violated, and cracks appear on the main, load-bearing walls. All this in the future may lead to partial or complete collapse of residential and commercial buildings.
In the event of a seasonal increase in the natural level of groundwater, residential buildings and outbuildings with a deep foundation fall into the risk zone. In this case, its sole is at risk, and in basements and plinths, even those equipped with good waterproofing, moisture and dampness may appear.
To avoid these unpleasant moments, it is necessary to design a drainage system and implement it at the planning stage of building a house or immediately after purchasing a property.

An almost obligatory phenomenon, which is caused by the lack of a high-quality drainage system on the site, is cracks in the walls. Of course, they can be puttied, but the integrity of the internal space will already be violated and the room will become vulnerable to the penetration of dampness and cold.
For areas that are partially or completely concreted, paved with paving stones, paving slabs or colored mosaics, the presence of drainage channels and gutters is a must. Otherwise, after rains or snowmelt, puddles will stagnate on the surface, provoking cracking of the upper decorative layer and violating the integrity of the entire coating.
It is also necessary to equip drainage where lawns equipped with advanced automatic irrigation systems are located. This will allow to control the level of soil moisture and prevent the death of rare plants as a result of soil silting.
Drainage channels make it possible to quickly remove water from the site and do not allow it to flood buildings, spoil landscape design and harm the infrastructure of the territory.
deep drainage
A deep drainage system is a pipeline that runs in places that require constant water drainage, or to lower the groundwater level. Pipes are laid with a certain slope towards a collector or wastewater collection tank located directly on the site, or into a reservoir outside the perimeter of the site.
To achieve a decrease in the level of groundwater, it is necessary to lay drains at a depth of about 1.5 meters. To divert water from the foundation of buildings, I place the pipes a little lower than the sole of the foundation is located. In addition, pipes can be laid throughout the site, maintaining a certain distance between them.

One of the factors that should be considered when arranging drainage on a site with your own hands is the terrain. The technology involves laying from the highest place on the site, to the lowest point.The even terrain involves the artificial creation of a slope when arranging a trench for a pipe. On average, the slope should be 2 cm per 1 meter of pipeline for soil with a predominance of clay, the bottom of the trench in sandy soil should have a slope of 3 cm per 1 linear meter of pipe. In this case, the presence of a slope along the entire length of the pipeline should be checked.
When is drainage required?
The drainage system involves the collection and diversion of ground, melt and storm water from buildings and directly from the site. The presence of drainage on the site helps prevent washing out, heaving and waterlogging of the soil, the cause of which is strong saturation with moisture.
Not every site needs drainage, so to decide whether a drainage system is needed, you should carefully examine the area.

In particular, attention should be paid to the following points:
- The formation of foci of flooding in the area after the snow melts.
- The rate of water absorption after watering plantings.
- The presence of puddles after heavy rain.
If all of the above factors have been repeatedly observed, then a drainage system on the site is definitely needed. For greater certainty, you can dig several holes in different places of the site to a depth of about 1 meter, and inspect them after two days. The presence of water at the bottom of the pits indicates a strong saturation of the soil with moisture.

When deciding how to make drainage on the site yourself, it is important to understand that a drainage system is a necessity in the following cases:
- High groundwater level.
- The predominance of clay soil in the area.
- The location of the site in a lowland or on the slope of any hill.
- The location of the site is a region with a large amount of precipitation.
How to make indoor drainage around the house with your own hands
Such a device for protecting the house from water can be done independently even after the construction of the building is completed. First of all, you need to prepare working tools and all the necessary materials:
- shovels of two types (bayonet and shovel);
- spirit level for checking the slope;
- manual type rammer;
- a device for removing excess soil from the site (stretcher or wheelbarrow);
- roulette;
- geotextile;
- backfill for the moisture-collecting layer (granite crushed stone is best suited);
- sand;
- inspection and drainage wells;
- drainage pump;
- drains and fittings for their connection with each other and with wells.
Pipes must be perforated. You can purchase ready-made drains, or make them yourself from an existing orange sewer pipe. Flexible products are not recommended. The diameter of the pipeline can be 70-150 mm.
The material is preferably plastic with high strength and wall resistance to stress. Moreover, the deeper the drains go, the higher this figure should be. You can take asbestos and ceramic products.
Some prefabricated drainage pipes are surrounded by an additional filter material, such as coconut fiber.
A plastic inspection and drainage well is bought ready-made or made independently from a thick-walled plastic pipe of large diameter. They will need to buy hatches.
After acquiring everything you need, they begin to measure, allowing you to mark the place where the drains and other elements of the drainage system will pass. The site is cleared of debris and the excavation and installation work begins. Let's look at how to properly lay the drainage pipe around the house:
They dig trenches of the required depth, and in the right places pits for wells. Their width must be at least 20 cm larger than the diameter of the pipeline. During excavation, it is necessary to control compliance with the slope using a spirit level.
Prepare trenches and pits for wells. To do this, sand is poured to the bottom and carefully rammed. Don't forget to check slope compliance. The sand cushion should be 0.10 - 0.15 cm high. With a high groundwater level for plastic wells, in order to avoid their ascent, it is recommended to make a concrete base 10 cm thick, to which the container is attached during installation.
Geotextiles are laid in the ditch in such a way that the edges of the material extend beyond the upper boundaries of the trench.
Laying at the bottom of the drainage pipe. Drains are connected to each other. In this case, sockets or special fittings can be used. Pipes are inserted into the inlets of the wells, using rubber sealing rings.
A twenty-centimeter layer of crushed stone or other material is poured onto the drains. Don't forget the slope.
Close drains surrounded by rubble, geotextiles.
Drainage trenches are covered with a layer of sand, 10-20 cm thick
It is carefully rammed, and backfilled with soil from above. If the region is characterized by a large amount of precipitation, then storm system trays are installed above the drains on the sand.
Wells are backfilled and covered with manholes.
The drainage system is ready.
Video on how to make a drainage system around the house with your own hands:
A few words about the plastic drainage well
In its simplest form, it can be a container for collecting water. At the junction with the inlet pipeline, a valve must be installed to prevent the reverse flow of water. It is good if the container has a large diameter, for example, 80-100 cm.
From the drainage well, you can lay a non-perforated outlet pipeline to a ravine, filtration well or reservoir. Drainage from the collector can be done by gravity or by a drainage pump. Water from the well can be used for technical needs and irrigation.
The purpose of the drainage of the garden plot
Land reclamation measures, in accordance with the norms (SNiP 2.06.15), are carried out in forest and agricultural lands so that the soil becomes as suitable as possible for growing fruit trees, cereals and vegetables.
For this, an extensive system of open ditches or closed pipelines is formed, the main purpose of which is to drain overly wet areas.
The ultimate goal of collecting water through branches and sleeves of various types is artificial or natural reservoirs (if conditions permit), special drainage ditches, absorbing wells or storage tanks, from which water is pumped out for irrigation and maintenance of the territory.
Often, pipes buried in the ground, if the relief allows, are replaced by external structures - ditches and trenches. These are open-type drainage elements, through which water moves by gravity.
According to the same principle, a pipeline network is designed for a summer cottage, regardless of its area - 6 or 26 acres.If the area suffers from frequent flooding after rain or spring floods, the construction of catchment facilities is mandatory.
Accumulation of excess moisture is facilitated by clay soils: sandy loam and loam, because they do not pass or very weakly pass water into the underlying layers.
Another factor that encourages thinking about a drainage project is the elevated level of groundwater, the presence of which can be found out even without special geological surveys.
If on the territory of the dacha a pit was dug for a cesspool or a septic tank, and it was filled with water, then the aquifers are located in close proximity to the surface of the earth. When arranging a well by a drilling organization, you will receive data on the location of water horizons from specialists.
Even if the foundation stands, there is no guarantee of maintaining a comfortable environment inside basements and basements: dampness, premature corrosion, fungus and mold may appear.
Over time, damp concrete and brick foundations become covered with cracks that are difficult to repair. On the contrary, they continue to grow, provoking movements of buildings. To prevent destruction, even at the stage of building construction, it is necessary to think about the device of effective drainage.
Excess moisture in the soil is always a danger to the integrity of the foundation of building objects: houses, baths, garages, outbuildings
How to choose a site for wells
For a well, where all the water that is discharged through the drainage system will always drain, it is worth choosing the lowest located place in the suburban area. Water is removed from it using a modern country drainage pump, and it can also seep into the deepest soil layers of the soil.

Wells for water drainage, which are part of the systems, are of two main types - absorption, that is, filtering, as well as water intake tanks. The former are installed in areas with sandy loamy or special sandy soil, and a small amount of water also matters. Ground brick elements are poured at the bottom of such a well; simple crushed stone is also suitable. A pre-prepared geotextile is also laid on top, which will serve as a filter.
As for water intake wells or collectors, a pair of rings made of concrete is placed in a dug hole, then a layer of small bricks is poured, and sod is laid. If there is a lot of moisture present in the soil, the thicker the backfill layer will be. Liquid from such devices can be pumped out using a simple pump.
















































