What to do when the toilet cistern is leaking: an overview of possible causes and repair

The toilet cistern is leaking: the reasons why water is on the floor

There are two weak points through which liquid can seep out of the toilet bowl and cause a lot of trouble to the owners and neighbors - it can flow through the gasket installed between the tank and the toilet itself or through the screw holes that connect the two parts of the compact.In both cases, the cause is almost always either the design features of the toilet bowl (the tank does not fit tightly on the bowl and over time it loosens, which leads to a leak), or improper installation of the gasket.

The toilet cistern is leaking: troubleshooting options

There are other options - for example, a dry gasket that comes with the toilet bowl. Installing it, the master lays a time bomb. But let's start in order and consider each of the possible places where leaks occur separately.

Gasket between cistern and toilet bowl. In this case, the question of why the toilet bowl is leaking can only be answered by making a certain visual inspection.

Immediately you need to pay attention to the distance between the tank and toilet - if there is one, then, most likely, the matter is in the design features of this plumbing fixture. It will not work for a long time to fix a leak with such a toilet - time will still pass, and the leak will reappear

By the way, it can appear with equal success both in a month and after a few years. No, this is not a lottery, but the scrupulousness with which you will treat this problem. In a good way, such a repair toilet cistern is performed as follows. First, turn off the water supply, drain the water from the tank, remove it. To do this, you will have to unscrew the two screws that pass through the bottom of the tank and go out from the bottom of the toilet bowl - if they are not rusted, then the tank will be removed easily.After separating the two parts of the toilet bowl, the gasket responsible for the tightness of this joint should remain either on the tank or on the toilet bowl - we remove it and look at its condition - if it is solid and does not squeeze with our hands, then we go to the store for a new one. If it is soft, then the matter is most likely in the wrong installation. In both cases, it is better to replace it. Before going to the store, we wipe dry the junctions of the gasket with the tank and the toilet, thus thoroughly removing all dirt and debris. While you walk, it will dry out, and immediately after returning, it will be possible to continue repairing the toilet bowl. The new gasket is installed quite simply, and so that during the assembly process it does not change its position and the leak does not recur, it can be glued to the tank or toilet bowl with silicone (it is better both there and there). Then we insert the screws into place and tighten them well - just do not overdo it, otherwise the faience may burst. After the tank is installed and the nuts are tightened, it is better to wait a couple of hours for the silicone to dry up, and only then use this plumbing fixture.

Leakage through connecting screws. In most cases, they occur as a result of poor-quality installation of the toilet bowl or due to dry seals. As in the previous case, unscrew the screws, but do not remove the tank. We pay attention to the gaskets, or rather to their shape - if we are talking about flat rubber washers, then we throw them away and go to the store for a new kit for connecting the tank to the toilet. When buying it, make sure that it is equipped with cone gaskets, as they provide a more reliable sealing of the holes.We install a new mounting kit in accordance with the following diagram. Closer to the screw head, we first put on a metal washer - followed by a conical gasket with a narrow part from the screw head. We insert the screw into the hole (from inside the tank) and from below, under the toilet bowl, put on a flat rubber band, then a washer and screw on the nut. You need to tighten the bolts one by one - first tighten one, then the other, then return to the first again and go to the second again. In general, you need to make sure that the cistern falls onto the toilet evenly - skew can lead to a crack on the toilet or cistern.

Toilet cistern repair photo

Here, in principle, are all the places where a leak can occur between the tank and the toilet. As you can see, eliminating it is not so difficult, the main thing is to understand what you are doing.

It is for this reason that when repairing a toilet bowl with a button, pay special attention to disassembly - when disassembling something, we study the design and purpose of the device parts. So it will be easier to understand the principle of operation of the tank and determine its malfunction.

The video clearly shows how to repair the toilet cistern if it is leaking.

External breakdowns

Violation of tightness. If the toilet is installed on a cement mortar, then in the place where it is connected to the sewer pipe, the cement crumbles, cracks appear and the flow begins. Sometimes this arises from the fact that the toilet began to be used shortly after its installation.

It is not recommended to use the toilet for 24 hours after installation. Clean the joint from the old cement. Do this with a screwdriver, chisel or knife. Prepare a new mortar by mixing cement and silicone-based sealant. Do not add sand to cement. Leave for a day until completely dry.

Crack in the base of the toilet

It often happens when a large amount of boiling water is abruptly poured into the toilet. Faience does not withstand a sharp change in temperature and bursts. Two holes are drilled at the ends of the crack.

Cracks and holes are cleaned with emery from bumps and burrs. Apply epoxy to the leak. Do not use the toilet until the epoxy is completely dry. If the epoxy does not help, then you need to replace the toilet with a new one.

Fasteners not tight enough

It is possible that the nuts were loosely tightened when installing the toilet. Or the studs on which the toilet is installed are loose at the base. It is necessary to tighten the fastening nuts. If the studs are loose, then it is necessary to remove the toilet bowl completely and re-fix them.

The tank is leaking on the sides or from the bottom to the floor

Quite often, a tank leak is confused with the presence of condensate on its surface. Filling the container with cold water in a room with normal room temperature automatically leads to the appearance of dew drops on the outer walls.

Another thing is when marks characteristic of a constant stream are visible on the sides. Rusty or calcareous marks left by the water flow indicate a defect in the operation of the internal mechanism or cracks in the ceramic bowl itself.

The problems associated with the presence of traces of a leak can be classified as follows:

• the presence of traces of a jet of water from technological holes;
• traces starting below the holes, appearing in places of microcracks;
• the presence of traces on the bottom of the tank.

In the first case, when water simply overflows through the technological holes, the cause of the defect may be a malfunction of the overflow mechanism or the absence of a special hose mounted on the filler pipe.

A blown tube on the valve inlet is not a critical malfunction, just under the pressure of water a large amount of spray is formed in a closed space with an unpredictable trajectory, as a result of which a certain amount of water simply splashes out. Deficiency Correction Method:

1. Shut off the water supply.
2. Remove cover.
3. Put the flown tube on the branch pipe and fix it with a clamp.

In case of mechanical damage to the ceramic or plastic bowl of the tank, a leak may occur on the walls at the fracture points. Visible cracks that threaten the integrity of the structure are useless to seal, the constant process of filling and draining water systematically affects the walls and breaks the seam, no matter how strong it may be. In this case, you just need to replace the tank.

If no visible cracks are visible, but water infiltration still occurs, it is recommended:

1. Shut off the water supply.
2. Drain the water from the tank.
3. Mark water leaks.
4. Dry the tank outside and inside.
5. Using silicone sealant or silicate glue, treat microcracks inside and outside the walls.
6. After finishing the treatment, fill the tank with water.

Filling microcracks with sealing compounds will ensure the sealing of the walls for a rather long time, but this is provided that the walls are not subjected to mechanical action that can turn microcracks into real fractures.

Tanks with bottom hose connections most often leak at the hose connection.You can eliminate the defect by tightening the hose nut on the fitting or removing the hose and reinstalling it using fum-tape or tow.

Broken toilet bowl

Perhaps they stepped on the toilet or put too much weight on it. The toilet needs to be completely replaced.

Worn cuff or corrugation

The rubber gasket became less elastic over time and cracked. To fix the problem, you need to remove the toilet from the base. Remove old cuff. Install a new cuff on the sealant.

If it is not possible to buy a new gasket, then the old gasket is bent up around the circumference and sealant is thickly applied to the resulting space. Most problems are solved with sealant, glue, or a new gasket. In the most severe cases, it is necessary to buy a new toilet and call a specialist to install it.

The main causes of external leaks

What to do if the toilet tank is leaking and water is on the floor? First you need to understand the reasons. There are two main nodes, a breakdown in which leads to this kind of trouble. This is the gasket that is installed between the tank and the toilet bowl, and the screws that connect the compact design.

The causes of external leaks can be either a loose installation of the drain tank on the bowl, or a violation of the sealing gasket installation technology.

Also, the tank may leak due to natural wear or the initially poor quality of the gasket. In all cases, the essence of the problem lies in the lack of tightness of the connections.

Sealing gaskets for toilet bowls are in every building store. They are silicone, rubber or polyurethane. Any of the materials perfectly copes with its tasks. The main thing is that the new gasket is not hard.You can check it by squeezing it in your hand. The surface of the product must be smooth and even.

How to replace a leaking gasket?

First of all, turn off the water and empty the tank. After that, it can be removed by unscrewing the two screws connecting the structure. In relatively new toilets, the screws do not have time to rust and are easily unscrewed.

If the screws are seriously “grown”, you will have to be careful when unscrewing. It makes sense to consider the option of a complete replacement of the structure, because

problems can appear simply because the toilet has served its time.

In this case, breakdowns follow one after another, and soon after the repair you will have to face new troubles.

When the parts of the structure are separated, the sealing gasket can be removed and checked for leaks. To do this, it is compressed. If it has hardened and lost elasticity, it's time to buy a new one.

If everything is in order with the gasket itself, then the problem is in the wrong installation, but in this case it is better to put a new one.

Before installing the gasket, the joints are thoroughly cleaned and dried. The new part is placed in the same place as the old one.

To guarantee the tightness of the connection, it can be glued with a special silicone compound. It is applied to parts of the structure and to the gasket itself on both sides.

After installing the gasket, the tank is installed in place, tightly clamping the screws. At the same time, it is necessary to monitor the applied efforts so that the connection is tight, but the faience does not burst.

It remains only to tighten the nuts and wait until the silicone grabs. The toilet can be used after 2-3 hours.

Silicone sealing compounds are designed for bonding rubber, metal, plastic parts.After drying, they form a dense impermeable mass, resistant to all types of influences.

We eliminate the leak in the place of the connecting screws

Leaks in the places where the connecting screws are installed occur in two cases:

• if the toilet was originally mounted unprofessionally;
• if seals are dry.

To eliminate the leak, unscrew the screws, but the reservoir bowl itself does not need to be removed. Most likely, flat rubber seals have become unusable.

They will have to be replaced, preferably with conical gaskets, which provide a tighter fit of the parts.

To install new fasteners, a metal washer is put on the screw, then a gasket (if it is conical, then the wide part to the screw head).

Next, the screw must be inserted into its original place from the inside of the tank, and from the outside, put on a flat rubber band, washer and nut.

When fixing the structure, it is necessary to evenly distribute efforts, alternately tightening either one or the second screw. This will help avoid distortion. If the tank is installed correctly, then all connections will remain tight.

Skews will lead to new leaks or cracks in the plumbing fixture.

Each toilet model has its own design features, so when disassembling, you should be very careful, remember the location of each part, the specifics of fastening and other nuances. This will help to properly assemble the toilet after repair.

Prevention

It is better to prevent a breakdown at the stages of its inception than to eliminate the consequences later.By taking preventive measures, you will significantly extend the life of your plumbing and will spend significantly less money when some problems occur.

Prevention measures include:

• Periodic check of joints, connections;
• Inspection of gaskets, condition of branch pipes and pipes;
• Careful use of levers and flush buttons, providing for the absence of sharp pressing;
• Installation of coarse filters, which prevent impurities, large particles from entering the tank that can pollute and clog the system;
• The use of high-quality fittings when replacing toilet bowl elements;
• The use of high-quality sanitary ware, the purchase of which in itself guarantees a longer trouble-free service life than products of dubious production;

Appeal to professionals to solve problems and malfunctions.

Interesting in the "Problems" section

Faults

Usually, all possible malfunctions with a toilet bowl have the following symptoms:

• water constantly flows into the bowl;
• liquid continuously flows from the plumbing system into the tank;
• the toilet itself is leaking;
• flush button broken
• repeated pressing of the button is required in order for the drain to occur or the liquid to stop flowing into the tank.

To eliminate the breakdown, it is very important to determine its cause.

First option

Overflowing the tank is the likely reason why water is constantly flowing. All "extra" water goes into the bowl through the overflow.

Let's highlight a few reasons for this problem:

• valve crack (found only in plastic products);
• problems with the pin holding the float lever;
• low gasket pressure;
• its wear.

Understanding the reasons, you can roughly figure out how to act.

How to solve:

• We remove the cover.
• Raise the float a little. The flow must end. If this happens, it will only be necessary to slightly bend the lever in order to ensure that the water supply is shut off.
• If it doesn't help, you will have to inspect the valve. Instead of a broken stud, you can use a piece of copper wire. If the hole in which it is attached has become large, the entire valve will need to be replaced. To do this, you should take a sample of the old one with you to the store in order to find exactly the same one.
• If the gasket is worn out, then the entire valve will still need to be replaced, since they are not sold separately.

Second option

Consider the option in which water flows, and its level in the tank is less than the overflow. A common cause is a broken bolt that tightens the toilet and shelf. A similar problem existed especially acutely in older models, where there was a pair of steel bolts. Naturally, under the influence of water, they quickly became unusable. In this case, they need to be replaced. Moreover, it is desirable to choose products from corrosion-resistant materials.

You can solve the problem by disassembling and assembling the tank:

• turn off the cold water supply;
• remove the tank cover;
• empty it;
• disconnect the flexible hose;
• we unscrew the bolts that fix the shelf on the toilet: if it doesn’t work, you can use a hacksaw;
• tilt the tank back to get the shelf out of the cuff;
• drain the remaining liquid, lay the tank on a flat surface.

Replacing the bolts with new ones, you should assemble everything

At the same time, it is important to replace the rubber elements so as not to return to repair in the near future.

When tightening the bolts, be careful not to over tighten. The toilet material breaks quite easily.

Third option

What to do if the bolts are intact, there is a lot of space before overflow, and the liquid flows. When there is water in the tank, it does not flow into the bowl as long as the rubber bulb holds it. By pressing the button, the pear rises, the liquid flows out. Over time, the material from which it is made loses its qualities, which means that there is every chance that the pear will begin to let water through.

It is necessary to change the pear. It is fixed on the stem with a thread. You can unscrew it by turning it counterclockwise. You need to go to the store with a sample of the old product in order to pick up an identical one.

A temporary solution could be some kind of weight hung on the stem to press down the rubber, preventing the liquid from constantly flowing out.

Treatment of urinary incontinence in women

Therapy for menopausal incontinence in women is as diverse as their causes. With non-drug methods, you can try to treat mild incontinence and begin therapy for severe pathology.

Non-drug therapy for urinary incontinence

This type of treatment begins with a lifestyle correction:

1. Exclusion of smoking and alcohol consumption.
2. Exclusion of spicy, smoked foods, spices, spices, coffee, chocolate from the diet.
3. The transition to a diet (table number 8), which contributes to weight loss. Obese women are 4 times more likely to have incontinence problems. Weight loss reduces the risk of pathology from 60 to 10%.
4. Increasing water consumption to eliminate odor.
5. Establish a strict regimen of visiting the toilet - every 2-3 hours, regardless of the urge.
6. Carrying out personal hygiene procedures after each emptying.
7. Use of sanitary napkins and wet wipes.
8. Daily walks lasting at least half an hour.
9. Physiotherapy (magnetotherapy, electrical stimulation).
10. Classes with a psychotherapist.

Special gymnastics

Patients are offered special complexes of physical exercises for:

• strengthening the tone of the walls of the bladder and the muscles of the perineum;
• normalization of the functioning of the urinary system in the phases of filling;
• activation of a woman's volitional control of the process of urination.

An exercise therapy instructor helps you choose effective exercises for each specific case.

The use of simulators for the treatment of urinary incontinence

Special simulators have been created to enhance the tone of natural sphincters located in the pelvic floor. A system consisting of a rubber balloon inserted into the vagina and a sensor (manometer or modern display) allows a woman to control the force of muscle contraction during exercise.

The founder of this treatment was Arnold Kegel. Not all doctors recognize the effectiveness of Kegel exercises. But with strict adherence to his methodology, positive results are sure to be achieved. It is simply impossible to borrow individual principles without observing the entire set of recommendations.

Psychotechnics

Since stress and pathologies of the brain play an important role in the development of enuresis, it is possible to restore impaired functions by influencing the central nervous system.

One of the modern methods is biofeedback therapy (Biofeedback). Sensors are installed on the patient's body that record brain signals and the bioelectrical activity of the muscles. The signal visualized on the computer allows a person to control the urge to empty, developing the correct conditioned reflexes.

Medical treatment for urinary incontinence

With insufficient effectiveness of the listed technologies in the menopause, doctors resort to drug treatment. Medicines are used:

To reduce the tone of the bladder	To increase the tone of the bladder	Antidepressants	hormone therapy	Homeopathy remedies
Vesicar Driptan Detrusitol Mirabegron	Aksamon Neuromidin Nivalin Ubretide	duloxetine Intrigue simbalta	Divina Klymen Klimonorm	Klimadinon Climaxan Remens

Patients are prescribed topical agents: vaginal cream or suppositories with estriol.

Drugs are taken only as prescribed by a specialist. Self-medication is unacceptable.

Surgical treatment of urinary incontinence

If incontinence is not eliminated conservatively, then an operation is prescribed to restore the function of the sphincters. Doctors prescribe:

1. Installation of a sling - an elastic loop that holds the urethra in the required position, preventing spontaneous leakage of urine.
2. Colposuspension. Under anesthesia, a laparoscopic operation is performed, in which the paraurethral muscles are sutured to the inguinal bands.
3. Colporrhaphy - elimination of pelvic organ prolapse by pulling up the vaginal walls to a normal position.
4. The introduction of silicone or collagen fibers into the submucosal region of the urethra.

Contraindications for such operations are:

• diabetes;
• inflammatory processes;
• neoplasms;
• blood clotting disorder.

Types of drain tank

Toilet bowls are divided into several types. Types differ in the type of escapement device, in the material of manufacture and in the method of installation.

According to the location of the trigger lever of the tank:

top; side

According to the material from which the tank is made:

• plastic;
• ceramic;
• cast iron.

By installation method:

• wall installation;
• installation on the toilet shelf;

Each type of flush tank has an internal device that performs the work of filling water into the tank, adjusting the rate of water in it and flushing.

The device of a ceramic drain tank consists of:

• filling valve;
• overflow;
• drain valve.

toilet cistern device

The internal device of the drain tank

The purpose of the toilet cistern and its internal structure is the implementation of work:

• for filling water into a tank,
• adjusting the rate of water in it
• and the implementation of the flush itself

The purpose of the float

A float emerges from the water.

The purpose of the float ball valve is directed to:

• for supplying water to the tank,
• its dosage and rate.

The principle of operation of the float valve is that when there is enough water in the tank, the float pops up, setting in motion a special plug with a lever, which blocks the access of water to the tank.

overflow

The overflow is responsible for directing excess water into the toilet. It is needed so that the tank does not overflow, and water does not pour over its edge. This mechanism is usually made in the form of a small plastic tube and is located in the center of the tank. That is why, with an incorrectly adjusted water level in the tank toilet bowl, water constantly leaks into the bowl.

Inlet

The design of the filling fittings includes an inlet valve 5 of the rod type. Its operation is controlled by the float of the toilet bowl 3, acting on the cut-off rod through a brass rocker. A similar system is called a float valve and is still used in a slightly modified form.

Figure 2

Figure 3 will help you better understand the functioning of the filling unit.It shows the water level 1 after emptying the storage tank, after which the float mechanism 2 (including the rocker or lever-spoke 3) was in the lower position. The upper part of the rocker arm 3, located in the body of the faucet (valve) 4, shifted the pusher rod 5 with an elastic gasket 6 to the left, which activated the water supply through the inlet 8 and inlet 10. As the container is filled, the lower end of the lever moves up, and its upper arm accordingly shifts the pusher to the right and gradually closes the spout opening, pressing gasket 6 towards it.

The faucet is fixed on the wall of the tank with a fixing nut 9 from the outside. The threaded connection of the tap is sealed with a rubber gasket 7 from the inside. To dampen the noise of the falling jet 11, a tube of a suitable diameter is additionally put on the outlet fitting of the inlet valve, lowering its lower end below the minimum water level.

Figure 3

Release (drain)

Adjusting the toilet cistern cannot be complete without adjusting the outlet and overflow units. Their schemes shown in the figure (diagram) 2 - plumbing fixtures with lever-type drain mechanisms. But, despite the similar types of drives (rocker 4), they have fundamental differences in the principles of operation.

Siphon tank

Figure 2a shows a drain system using siphon chamber 1. The curved cavity solves two problems at once:

Serves as a fixed height overflow.

• The liquid level in the right receiving part of the siphon cavity always corresponds to the adjusted water level in the tank, it cannot be higher than the dividing wall.If the toilet float 3 is set incorrectly - it does not have time to close the inlet valve 5, then the liquid flows into the left side of the siphon (air) and flows out through the flush pipe.
• Supports (automates) the release of liquid, allowing you to release the handle 6 immediately after activation. At the beginning of the flush cycle, water rushes down under the raised valve 2. When it is in the lower position, the flow continues through the curved siphon tube due to the vacuum created by the flow falling at high speed in the vertical flush pipe. An effective pressure drop caused by a moving liquid is only possible with a sufficiently high placement of the sanitary cistern.

Sanitary fixtures made according to scheme 2a no longer meet modern aesthetic requirements. At the same time, they are characterized by too large and unregulated water consumption.